Quick and dirty flash settings...
Discussion
Sorry guys probably a topic done to death, never really used flash before.
Basically never used flash as I usually take photos outside with no need for flash.
At my office tomorrow I have been asked to take some photos at a recruitment event. The usual media/photographer can't make the event.
Bought a 430EXII a while back and never used it...
Quick and dirty indoor flash settings? I'll be using a 7D methinks.
Basically never used flash as I usually take photos outside with no need for flash.
At my office tomorrow I have been asked to take some photos at a recruitment event. The usual media/photographer can't make the event.
Bought a 430EXII a while back and never used it...
Quick and dirty indoor flash settings? I'll be using a 7D methinks.
Stick it in aperture mode, flash in TTL or whatever Canon call it, then simply dial in +/- EV until you get the look you need.
If you want to try manual, remember shutter speed controls the ambient and aperture the brightness of the flash - quick base line figures I use in manual would be 1/160th f8 iso 200 (lowest a D3 goes) flash on half power, quick chimp on the back screen and adjust as needed.
A good site for a quick read on the basics is http://strobist.co.uk look at the 101. If you want to get into it a bit in the future, read anything by Joe McNally (although he is a Nikon shooter) he makes it simple to understand the principles in a non-techy way.
If you want to try manual, remember shutter speed controls the ambient and aperture the brightness of the flash - quick base line figures I use in manual would be 1/160th f8 iso 200 (lowest a D3 goes) flash on half power, quick chimp on the back screen and adjust as needed.
A good site for a quick read on the basics is http://strobist.co.uk look at the 101. If you want to get into it a bit in the future, read anything by Joe McNally (although he is a Nikon shooter) he makes it simple to understand the principles in a non-techy way.
Dont stick it in aperture mode! Canon go mad in Av or Tv modes with flash you need to understand that it will use flash purely as fill in that mode.
Stick it in manual, shoot without the flash till you have the backgroud exposed as you want ISo 400 or 800, f4, dont worry about the shutter speed too much , then switch the flash on (use ettl mode) and use Flash exposure comp (FEC) to control power.
Stick it in manual, shoot without the flash till you have the backgroud exposed as you want ISo 400 or 800, f4, dont worry about the shutter speed too much , then switch the flash on (use ettl mode) and use Flash exposure comp (FEC) to control power.
RobDickinson said:
Dont stick it in aperture mode! Canon go mad in Av or Tv modes with flash you need to understand that it will use flash purely as fill in that mode.
Stick it in manual, shoot without the flash till you have the backgroud exposed as you want ISo 400 or 800, f4, dont worry about the shutter speed too much , then switch the flash on (use ettl mode) and use Flash exposure comp (FEC) to control power.
See, Nikons CLS system is so much simpler Stick it in manual, shoot without the flash till you have the backgroud exposed as you want ISo 400 or 800, f4, dont worry about the shutter speed too much , then switch the flash on (use ettl mode) and use Flash exposure comp (FEC) to control power.
In light (no pun!) of whats posted above ignore what I said 
RobDickinson said:
Dont stick it in aperture mode! Canon go mad in Av or Tv modes with flash you need to understand that it will use flash purely as fill in that mode.
Stick it in manual, shoot without the flash till you have the backgroud exposed as you want ISo 400 or 800, f4, dont worry about the shutter speed too much , then switch the flash on (use ettl mode) and use Flash exposure comp (FEC) to control power.
What he said. Start by putting it in manual at 1/2 power with the lens at f5.6 and then open and close the lens OR move closer/further to people until you get your setting right Stick it in manual, shoot without the flash till you have the backgroud exposed as you want ISo 400 or 800, f4, dont worry about the shutter speed too much , then switch the flash on (use ettl mode) and use Flash exposure comp (FEC) to control power.
Pickled said:
If you want to try manual, remember shutter speed controls the ambient and aperture the brightness of the flash.
This is fundamental advice if you want to break away from the manufacturers automatic systems (and I use Nikon's CLS) and go all manual. Just keep in mind what the maximum flash synch speed is for your camera when changing the shutter speedPickled said:
A good site for a quick read on the basics is http://strobist.co.uk look at the 101.
+ lots for this, just remember that Strobist concentrates on off-camera flashCheers for the response so far, especially from you Rob.
Having a wee play about in my flat taking self portraits and your advice seems to be working! Not that I had any doubts.
I assume you are talking about site http://strobist.blogspot.co.uk/ Had a look but mostly off camera but good reading nonetheless.
Having a wee play about in my flat taking self portraits and your advice seems to be working! Not that I had any doubts.
I assume you are talking about site http://strobist.blogspot.co.uk/ Had a look but mostly off camera but good reading nonetheless.
Edited by AndrewEH1 on Thursday 21st February 23:30
RobDickinson said:
Strobist is good but they are all about manual flash.
TBH for a starter just trust ettl and FEC
Very true, but it gives a good grounding on how flash effects an exposure and the principals behind it, and no harm in playing around with manual, we all know that iTTL and eTTL can be fooled at times giving inconsistent results.TBH for a starter just trust ettl and FEC
The easiest way to look at is is that your making 2 exposures.
Ambient , controlled with shutter speed (and ISO)
Flash , controlled with aperture and flash power. (and ISO)
Its the balance between the two that is key, and that 'dragging the shutter' only affects the ambient so you can have frozen subjects.
Heres an extreme example (there was bugger all ambient!).
Secret Garden gig by robjdickinson, on Flickr
Ambient , controlled with shutter speed (and ISO)
Flash , controlled with aperture and flash power. (and ISO)
Its the balance between the two that is key, and that 'dragging the shutter' only affects the ambient so you can have frozen subjects.
Heres an extreme example (there was bugger all ambient!).
Secret Garden gig by robjdickinson, on Flickr
Canon ETTL II and camera modes:
P - Camera exposes for the subject using the flash. Does not attempt to light the background
Av - Camera will alter the shutter speed (and ISO?) to expose the background correctly then use the flash to light the subject and freeze motion. In dark environments the exposure will be long and the background is likely to blur.
Tv - The camera will alter aperture (and ISO?) to expose the background, then use the flash to light and freeze the subject. Background may be dark if aperture is insufficient.
M - Set it all yourself!
For simple, reliable results; Tv gets my vote. Set your camera's ISO to the highest value with an acceptable level of noise, set your shutter speed fairly slow but still hand-holdable, bounce the flash if possible (diffuse it if not) and let the camera do the rest.
This might not result in artistic greatness but should produce good results time after time which is more important in this kind of situation.
P - Camera exposes for the subject using the flash. Does not attempt to light the background
Av - Camera will alter the shutter speed (and ISO?) to expose the background correctly then use the flash to light the subject and freeze motion. In dark environments the exposure will be long and the background is likely to blur.
Tv - The camera will alter aperture (and ISO?) to expose the background, then use the flash to light and freeze the subject. Background may be dark if aperture is insufficient.
M - Set it all yourself!
For simple, reliable results; Tv gets my vote. Set your camera's ISO to the highest value with an acceptable level of noise, set your shutter speed fairly slow but still hand-holdable, bounce the flash if possible (diffuse it if not) and let the camera do the rest.
This might not result in artistic greatness but should produce good results time after time which is more important in this kind of situation.
Bouncing the flash off the ceiling or walls gives a much nicer less harsh picture .Do test shots and shoot in RAW giving you the best chance of recovering things that look just fine on the camera and a bit off on the computer.
If you're shooting in the same area once you get the exposure about right (with test shots) the only thing you need to worry about is distance.
If you're shooting in the same area once you get the exposure about right (with test shots) the only thing you need to worry about is distance.
AndrewEH1 said:
Sorry guys probably a topic done to death, never really used flash before.
Basically never used flash as I usually take photos outside with no need for flash.
At my office tomorrow I have been asked to take some photos at a recruitment event. The usual media/photographer can't make the event.
Bought a 430EXII a while back and never used it...
Quick and dirty indoor flash settings? I'll be using a 7D methinks.
Oo-er. Wonder how he's getting on????Basically never used flash as I usually take photos outside with no need for flash.
At my office tomorrow I have been asked to take some photos at a recruitment event. The usual media/photographer can't make the event.
Bought a 430EXII a while back and never used it...
Quick and dirty indoor flash settings? I'll be using a 7D methinks.
My tip last night would have been "practice, practice, practice" - it's a bit late now!
Willing OP the best of luck.....
RobDickinson said:
The easiest way to look at is is that your making 2 exposures.
Ambient , controlled with shutter speed (and ISO)
Flash , controlled with aperture and flash power. (and ISO)
I can understand why Flash is independent if shutter speed (duration of flash muchless than shutter speed so shutter speed irrelevant.Ambient , controlled with shutter speed (and ISO)
Flash , controlled with aperture and flash power. (and ISO)
I can't see why the ambient exposure shouldn't depend upon aperture though - am I missing something ?
K12beano said:
Oo-er. Wonder how he's getting on????
My tip last night would have been "practice, practice, practice" - it's a bit late now!
Willing OP the best of luck.....
hahaMy tip last night would have been "practice, practice, practice" - it's a bit late now!
Willing OP the best of luck.....
Again, thanks for all the quick responses last night and this morning! Was a great help.
It went okay, some good/okay, some not so good, although better than there being no photos!
Sadly I can't post any of my efforts online due to the nature of the company I work for...
Edited by AndrewEH1 on Friday 22 February 18:01
Seight_Returns said:
I can understand why Flash is independent if shutter speed (duration of flash muchless than shutter speed so shutter speed irrelevant.
I can't see why the ambient exposure shouldn't depend upon aperture though - am I missing something ?
Aperture affects both is all.I can't see why the ambient exposure shouldn't depend upon aperture though - am I missing something ?
Gassing Station | Photography & Video | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff