Fisheye lenses
Discussion
Hi Guys,
Another noob thread from me so apologies in advance if this is stupid but I'm quite likin the fisheye type pictures at the moment so typed 'nikon fisheye lens' into ebay and loads of the below popped up
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NIKON-D7100-D3200-D5100-...
I was under the impression lenses are always expensive or certainly more so than the fisheye ones appear to be
Am I missing something on that link or can I really buy it, whack it on the D3100 and fisheye to my hearts content?
Thanks for any advice and for putting up with my constent noob questions
Another noob thread from me so apologies in advance if this is stupid but I'm quite likin the fisheye type pictures at the moment so typed 'nikon fisheye lens' into ebay and loads of the below popped up
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NIKON-D7100-D3200-D5100-...
I was under the impression lenses are always expensive or certainly more so than the fisheye ones appear to be
Am I missing something on that link or can I really buy it, whack it on the D3100 and fisheye to my hearts content?
Thanks for any advice and for putting up with my constent noob questions
It will be fun to play with, and you get 'macro' included by unscrewing the front section. However the image quality will be poor compared to dedicated fisheye lenses, especially at the edges. So if you want an effect to play with, buy it. When/if you get tired of it, simply resell on eBay!
The vague description and fact it doesn't even give a brand should be a hint as to the quality you can expect.
I'm not even clear on whether this is a lens or an adaptor for the standard lens.
In the image you can see it's made by "Gloxy" (who?), googling around suggests it may or may not be very slow (f7.4).
Sample shots are too small to see much and probably post processed to heck but it looks to me like it's got wicked (in a bad way) flare and glare.
It may even be fixed focus.
It might be it's a cost effective way to get the effect you want though. I've never bothered with very wide lenses because I think I'd only use it for the gimmick and that'd quickly get old. Maybe the the fish-eye look occasionally has a place for various sorts of board-based sports or something but it's not for me.
I'm not even clear on whether this is a lens or an adaptor for the standard lens.
In the image you can see it's made by "Gloxy" (who?), googling around suggests it may or may not be very slow (f7.4).
Sample shots are too small to see much and probably post processed to heck but it looks to me like it's got wicked (in a bad way) flare and glare.
It may even be fixed focus.
It might be it's a cost effective way to get the effect you want though. I've never bothered with very wide lenses because I think I'd only use it for the gimmick and that'd quickly get old. Maybe the the fish-eye look occasionally has a place for various sorts of board-based sports or something but it's not for me.
I have to admit the name and price did shock me a bit and as such I wouldnt expect too much from it at all
I'm getting a bit bored of my 18-55 so want to get something affordable (read cheap as hell) to make it more interesting or give me something different to use
I guess bite the bullet save up and wait is the answer
I'm getting a bit bored of my 18-55 so want to get something affordable (read cheap as hell) to make it more interesting or give me something different to use
I guess bite the bullet save up and wait is the answer
I have a 35mm already (I think)
Bit of googling confirms I do have a 35mm - minolta SRT 100X with 3 different lenses given to me by a work mate
I wonder if there is an adapter from that to a modern nikon, I know the old lenses won't be great but could be fun to mess about with (Should that be old or original lenses)
Bit of googling confirms I do have a 35mm - minolta SRT 100X with 3 different lenses given to me by a work mate
I wonder if there is an adapter from that to a modern nikon, I know the old lenses won't be great but could be fun to mess about with (Should that be old or original lenses)
Old because they are old and because we're not talking about an old version and a new version we're talking about very different lenses, as different as a Metro HLE and a Ford GT40.
They are certainly not old versions of your existing lens.
I'd be inclined to think the old lenses will be good actually, possibly better than your modern one and certainly better than the fleabay special.
Don't go looking for adapters, noobs putting proper lenses on their DSLRs with adapters is pushing the price of vintage lenses up. Use your Minolta. Film is still available and it's not too expensive and any good photography shop can process it and stick uber-res scans on CD for you for about the same price as a roll of film and in around an hour. Considering the low cost of film cameras (or free in your case) you can get a fair few rolls done before your 35mm with various inexpensive high quality lenses costs as much as your DSLR with various stupidly expensive lenses.
You might even learn something.
I got a mint wide-ish Zeiss lens for my OM-10 for £4.
They are certainly not old versions of your existing lens.
I'd be inclined to think the old lenses will be good actually, possibly better than your modern one and certainly better than the fleabay special.
Don't go looking for adapters, noobs putting proper lenses on their DSLRs with adapters is pushing the price of vintage lenses up. Use your Minolta. Film is still available and it's not too expensive and any good photography shop can process it and stick uber-res scans on CD for you for about the same price as a roll of film and in around an hour. Considering the low cost of film cameras (or free in your case) you can get a fair few rolls done before your 35mm with various inexpensive high quality lenses costs as much as your DSLR with various stupidly expensive lenses.
You might even learn something.
I got a mint wide-ish Zeiss lens for my OM-10 for £4.
Edited by scarble on Thursday 18th July 12:19
The trouble with fisheyes, in my experience, is that the novelty wears off pretty quickly.
Unless you're one of the specialist users (eg adventure sports, or 360 degree panoramas) you'll shoot a fair bit of it initially before losing interest and putting it away.
I had a play with a Canon 8-15mm and the novelty wore off within an hour!
Unless you're one of the specialist users (eg adventure sports, or 360 degree panoramas) you'll shoot a fair bit of it initially before losing interest and putting it away.
I had a play with a Canon 8-15mm and the novelty wore off within an hour!
mark - I think your probably right, I only relly shoot the odd landscape and urban exploring type stuff so would probably get bored quickly
Scarble - I think Ill take your advice and actually try using the film camera, the lack of buttons and dials really throws me off though so will have to read up on how it works etc first, should be a fun way to spend the weekend and as you say I'll probably learn something too. I don't like the idea of not being able to view the pictures until they're developed though
Scarble - I think Ill take your advice and actually try using the film camera, the lack of buttons and dials really throws me off though so will have to read up on how it works etc first, should be a fun way to spend the weekend and as you say I'll probably learn something too. I don't like the idea of not being able to view the pictures until they're developed though
That just means you'll learn to take better pictures first time
Seriously though, it makes you think more about all the little details of your photo and while DSLRers are strutting around with petals on and branded neck straps snapping off thousands of pictures with washed out skies and reflections up the wazoo you can just quietly shuffle round getting 36 perfect photos.
Plus chicks dig vintage cameras.
In case any of this is any help to you...
Looking at some pictures of the 100X the only controls on the body are shutter speed and ASA (which is exactly the same as ISO) which are combined in a single knob. This might be obvious but if you've never done film, the ISO is fixed by the film, you set the camera to what the film says.
As it's got an ASA setting I assume that means it has a built in light meter, TTL from the looks of it so you'll have a light metre in the viewfinder which will probably tell you what shutter speed to use. Probably has a battery for this under a coin-twist cover on the bottom. Battery may be flat. Will probably be a standard type though.
Aperture and focus are done on the lens.
White balance is determined by the film. Little window next to the winder is your frame counter I think (although it might be the light meter)
Make sure the film bites when you put it in, if you're cack-handed like me you can sometimes not put it in properly and it'll slip off after you've closed the camera and you might not realise and think you've shot a roll only to find your photos never happened
For urb-ex you might get some joy out of using a fast film with high contrast. Or, because accessories are cheap for old cameras, get a bounce flash.
Seriously though, it makes you think more about all the little details of your photo and while DSLRers are strutting around with petals on and branded neck straps snapping off thousands of pictures with washed out skies and reflections up the wazoo you can just quietly shuffle round getting 36 perfect photos.
Plus chicks dig vintage cameras.
In case any of this is any help to you...
Looking at some pictures of the 100X the only controls on the body are shutter speed and ASA (which is exactly the same as ISO) which are combined in a single knob. This might be obvious but if you've never done film, the ISO is fixed by the film, you set the camera to what the film says.
As it's got an ASA setting I assume that means it has a built in light meter, TTL from the looks of it so you'll have a light metre in the viewfinder which will probably tell you what shutter speed to use. Probably has a battery for this under a coin-twist cover on the bottom. Battery may be flat. Will probably be a standard type though.
Aperture and focus are done on the lens.
White balance is determined by the film. Little window next to the winder is your frame counter I think (although it might be the light meter)
Make sure the film bites when you put it in, if you're cack-handed like me you can sometimes not put it in properly and it'll slip off after you've closed the camera and you might not realise and think you've shot a roll only to find your photos never happened
For urb-ex you might get some joy out of using a fast film with high contrast. Or, because accessories are cheap for old cameras, get a bounce flash.
Edited by scarble on Thursday 18th July 13:19
thats awesome advice mate thank you for taking the time out
certainly sounds alot more complicated than modern cameras but I guess the satisfaction knowing the arsing aroud you did makes it worth it when you get the good image
I'm just terrified to shoot a roll of film and find out the camera is shagged or they all come out black or whatever, oh well if you dont try you'll never know I guess
Film has to be put into the camera in the dark doesnt it? (never used one and from memory my parents never had a film one)
certainly sounds alot more complicated than modern cameras but I guess the satisfaction knowing the arsing aroud you did makes it worth it when you get the good image
I'm just terrified to shoot a roll of film and find out the camera is shagged or they all come out black or whatever, oh well if you dont try you'll never know I guess
Film has to be put into the camera in the dark doesnt it? (never used one and from memory my parents never had a film one)
Well this is interesting; OP wants to buy a fisheye adapter for his digital SLR and ends up buying a film camera 
The adapter will reduce the focal length of any lens it's fitted to by 75%, so it will of course fit onto the 18-55mm you already have. What the resultant aperture will be I don't know.
The adapter will reduce the focal length of any lens it's fitted to by 75%, so it will of course fit onto the 18-55mm you already have. What the resultant aperture will be I don't know.
eta: Simpo, he already had the camera, it was free! Now he just needs the film
Without any film in and the back open just press the button a couple of times to see the shutter go. Marvel at the precision engineering.
There are two parts to it, one bit shoots across, un-covering the film and very soon after the other bit follows, covering the film up again. As you "wind-on" the film you will also pull the shutter back.
As film is <£10 a roll it doesn't hurt to get it wrong a couple of times. Burn through a couple rolls just practising.
If you're unsure of anything don't hesitate to ask.
That pic of the bike up there is using a film called "Kodak BW400CN" which is one of my favs (camera is a £5 Zenit-EM). Unlike most B&W films it is developed using the "C41" process which any film-processing place will be able to do.
Don't use Boots or the like for developing, you only need them to lose one roll and you've learnt the hard way
Get it done somewhere they do it in-house without sending it away.
DannyScene said:
Film has to be put into the camera in the dark doesnt it? (never used one and from memory my parents never had a film one)
No, when you buy a roll there's a little tail sticking out, you put the roll in one end and pull the little tail out so you've got enough length to slot it through the spool at t'other end. Now that bit of film is s**gged but the rest of the roll is still good so close the back, shoot a couple of blank frames to wind the exposed bit of the film onto the spool and you'll have nice fresh un-exposed film in front of your shutter. Your shutter is that black curtain, it opens and closes (very quickly!).Without any film in and the back open just press the button a couple of times to see the shutter go. Marvel at the precision engineering.
There are two parts to it, one bit shoots across, un-covering the film and very soon after the other bit follows, covering the film up again. As you "wind-on" the film you will also pull the shutter back.
As film is <£10 a roll it doesn't hurt to get it wrong a couple of times. Burn through a couple rolls just practising.
If you're unsure of anything don't hesitate to ask.
That pic of the bike up there is using a film called "Kodak BW400CN" which is one of my favs (camera is a £5 Zenit-EM). Unlike most B&W films it is developed using the "C41" process which any film-processing place will be able to do.
Don't use Boots or the like for developing, you only need them to lose one roll and you've learnt the hard way
Get it done somewhere they do it in-house without sending it away.
I was thinking of trying one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/52mm-WIDE-ANGLE-Lens-FOR...
I've got a build thread going and I want a field of view greater than 90° so I can take snaps of entire rooms. I'm not expecting any quality, just the ability to post a 300px picture on this thread.
Anyone tried something similar?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/52mm-WIDE-ANGLE-Lens-FOR...
I've got a build thread going and I want a field of view greater than 90° so I can take snaps of entire rooms. I'm not expecting any quality, just the ability to post a 300px picture on this thread.
Anyone tried something similar?
left-field suggestion without really reading what you want:
http://www.digitaltrends.com/mobile/iphone-5-app-3...
anyway, that one is considerably cheaper and probably just as good
by the sounds of it it screws on to the front of your lens as if it were a filter? (it says 52mm straight "mount")
http://www.digitaltrends.com/mobile/iphone-5-app-3...
anyway, that one is considerably cheaper and probably just as good
by the sounds of it it screws on to the front of your lens as if it were a filter? (it says 52mm straight "mount")
Edited by scarble on Thursday 18th July 13:55
to be honest I'd go for good film over cheap film but for learning maybe buy the cheapest stuff. I've never tried to buy from a pound shop. Most Tesco Extras will do some sort of film.
For the record you can get BW400CN which is a semi-pro film for £5 a roll from Wex, may be a slight bulk discount too.
For the record you can get BW400CN which is a semi-pro film for £5 a roll from Wex, may be a slight bulk discount too.
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