Why is my new camera not taking good pictures.

[JIM600]

Hey all,

Ok, I'm by no means a photographer - so my pics are never going to be of the quality of some on here, but I've recently bought a new camera and been a bit disappointed with the pics.

I used to use a canon g15 which was pretty good, but I got a good deal on a fujifilm xm1 at christmas and thought it would be a step above (I know neither are dslrs but both were considered to be at the upper end of the "recreational" market.)

Below are 4 pics taken with the canon g15:






And below are 4 pics taken with the xm1:






(Tried to pick similar pics to compare, all are unedited as they came off the camera).

To my eye the canon pics look better, small things like the rocks look more in focus and it appears to have dealt with the light better (The xm1 seems to show very dark shadows/shiny reflections) and the backgrounds merge into one another more. (This issue with dark/light seems a bigger issue with the xm1 - it takes dark pics in low light and heavy/dark shadows in bright light)

See this one taken recently, almost like the contrast is too high.



All pics taken either on auto or with some very basic settings changes, I tend to let the camera pick the iso/shutter speed etc as I generally just take quick snaps.

Was I expecting too much from the fujifilm? Is it a case of me needing to do more setup work with the fuji? It just dosn't seem to be a stepup from the canon?

Any advice would be appreciated.
Cheers

[eybic]

I found similar when I went from a compact to a DSLR, I think you will need to do more setting up prior to taking the pics.

[The_Jackal]

Some experts will be along with experience of those cameras, but auto will never yield the best pictures a camera can take.
At a guess it will be the type of metering that you have got set, and possibly any type of picture controls set.

[GetCarter]

Just a quick 'heads up'. Buying a better guitar doesn't make one a better guitarist.

You need to work on composition, exposure and post prosssing. They are the areas that will yield the best results, soonest.

Edited by GetCarter on Wednesday 12th February 17:12

[JIM600]

I appreciate that, and I am generally pretty lazy with setup because the camera is normally used at the side of the road it just gets whipped out, pic taken, ride off.

I guess I just expected that even on auto mode, the larger sensor/better lens etc would result in a better picture.

So is it the case that if you only have say 30 seconds to take the picture I would actually be better with something like a canon s110 which will fit in a pocket and keep the fujifilm in a bag with the tripod for shots where I have time to set it up?

Thanks again.

[GetCarter]

JIM600 said:

I appreciate that, and I am generally pretty lazy with setup because the camera is normally used at the side of the road it just gets whipped out, pic taken, ride off.

I guess I just expected that even on auto mode, the larger sensor/better lens etc would result in a better picture.

So is it the case that if you only have say 30 seconds to take the picture I would actually be better with something like a canon s110 which will fit in a pocket and keep the fujifilm in a bag with the tripod for shots where I have time to set it up?

Thanks again.

It's not someting one can rule on. Most of these were taken with a point and shoot, some with a very posh DSLR.. http://stevecarter.com/random/2013.htm

Not the best pics, but my point is that it's not the camera that really counts, it's the nut behind the lens.

[ExPat2B]

It's your metering, those shots are underexposed.

I ran a google search to confirm, and looks like other people have same problem.

from a review :
"
Metering

In a Sunny 16 test, the Fujifilm XM1 consistently underexposed by 1/3rd of a stop. To double check, we ran the test again the results from a handheld light meter and they added up.

If you’re in Program, Aperture or Shutter priority, we recommend that you boost the exposure compensation just a tad.
"

And the shots from the Canon look generally overexposed to me.

I believe you are having a second exposure problem, you have the sky in the pics, and if you have the camera set to matrix metering that means it tends to expose for the sky and underexpose everything else. I would switch to spot metering.


To rescue the pics already taken, open them up in photoshop, click on the channels, CTRL left click the RGB channel, then click curves, then grab the middle of the curve and move it vertically down, this will bring the shadow detail up better than anything else.

[ExPat2B]

Raised the shadow detail only exposure by a full stop. Would be better if I had the RAW file.


motorcyle by natureiser, on Flickr

[Simpo Two]

White balance also looks wrong.

[JIM600]

Sounds like I need to do some reading up on the functions/modes and get the camera setup properly then. Seems like it's me not knowing what I'm doing which is more of an issue on the fujifilm than the more "point and shoot" canon.

Thanks for the advice about exposure - I will go and take some test shots tomorrow and see how that affects the outcome.

[ExPat2B]

motorcyle_Balanced by natureiser, on Flickr

White balanced from cloud

[mattdaniels]

ExPat2B said:

Raised the shadow detail only exposure by a full stop. Would be better if I had the RAW file.

Yes.
Photography, regardless of analogue or digital, is a two stage process - exposing the image then processing it.
In simple terms, if you output a JPG from your camera then the camera has applied processing to the image. If you output RAW then no* processing has been applied.
So the best way to get full control over manipulating the original exposure is to get the RAW file.

• = I said I was keeping it simple, before the pedants start.

[RobDickinson]

I find center weighted average the best metering mode for normal photography, and make use of exposure compensation

[Craikeybaby]

Also, make use of the screen on the back of the camera - zoom in and check the photo while you are still in a position to retake it.

[Simpo Two]

Craikeybaby said:

Also, make use of the screen on the back of the camera - zoom in and check the photo while you are still in a position to retake it.

That will work for focus but not exposure or white balance. Use the histogram and/or highlight warning (if fitted) for exposure and shoot RAW to control white balance.

From the samples posted the G15 seemed to do a pretty good job; the Fuji needs more help.

[wombleh]

I found it useful to get one of the survival guides for my first DSLR, walks you through the various settings in a bit more novice-friendly detail than the manual does. Worth a tenner or so.

[JIM600]

Thanks for all the advice,

I think I may go back to a small canon compact for my pocket, keep the fuji for when I have time to setup a shot - and do a bit of reading up on how to get the best out of it. Some of the stuff here goes a bit over my head currently.

Actually confirms how impressive the little canon s95s etc are for the size/price.

[Simpo Two]

Yes; it confirms my general rule that if what you have works perfectly for you don't try to upgrade it

[Ledaig]

As a suggestion from me, go out and take a series of identical shots with both cameras. When you see the Canon presenting a 'better' shot, look at the settings and histogram to see where the differences may be.

They are completely different cameras and so will naturally use different settings to suit the software to a degree(particularly due to the 1.7 v APS sensors), but this will assist you in seeing where the differences are.

[andy-xr]

I have a little Nikon point and shoot thing, there's no real manual control with it, just a bunch of scene modes, a metering mode and the choices of macro and exposure compensation

I find sticking it in Smart, hitting the +/- button then going up to 0.7 exposure compensation brings out better exposed shots on the back of the camera.

I dont tend to edit what I take with that camera as the image quality is never great to start with, but it's easier to make it a bit darker afterwards on the computer (and still have some detail left in brighter areas), than it is to make the whole thing brighter later on. I end up with loads of grain and it just looks muddy if its all too dark