Discussion
How does one gid rid of the infernal dark stich lines in a panorama?, Still it's my first so not too bothered.
I thought i had the tower just right untill i got home and discovered that the darker parts were underexposed. The sun on the tower was fine. Need to read up on metering more? or exposure?
learning curve at the moment.
leaving the panorama aside as thats just for fun realy. How would you make the tower shop better..composition, focal point, etc
Thanks
Ian
www.pbase.com/bilko1971/greenwich
Doh!
I thought i had the tower just right untill i got home and discovered that the darker parts were underexposed. The sun on the tower was fine. Need to read up on metering more? or exposure?
learning curve at the moment.
leaving the panorama aside as thats just for fun realy. How would you make the tower shop better..composition, focal point, etc
Thanks
Ian
www.pbase.com/bilko1971/greenwich
Doh!bilko said:
leaving the panorama aside as thats just for fun realy. How would you make the tower shop better..composition, focal point, etc
A clear day would help - you'd get much more contrast and a cleaner shot. But there's no excuse for not getting your verticals vertical :rapknuckles:
The panorama is monstrous, can't really get an overall feeling for it but there seems to be lots of detail. Interesting!
simpo two said:
leaving the panorama aside as thats just for fun realy. How would you make the tower shop better..composition, focal point, etc
A clear day would help - you'd get much more contrast and a cleaner shot. But there's no excuse for not getting your verticals vertical :rapknuckles:
The panorama is monstrous, can't really get an overall feeling for it but there seems to be lots of detail. Interesting!
just noticed that! it is a bit like the leaning tower of pizza
For the tower you really need a clearer day to get more contrast. The lighting here seems pretty flat. On a clearer day this will be a lovely view.
To work on getting your verticals vertical you can use the "view grid" command in Photoshop (I have Elements 2, I suspect it must still be there in the full blown version. The use the command somrhting like "Iamge - distort or skew or perspective" then click and drag the top corners of your picture either in or out to start getting your verticals vertical.
However off to the panorama - one of the great things about digital photography is the possibility to do these. One of the trickest things ahs to be matching of exposure between frames. First rule is to expose all frames with the same exposure. I look at the panorama through the camera to determine the appropriate meter reading and then lock this into the camera, I often use manual shutter and aperture settings to make sure. Then take your frames. Aim for at least a 30% overlap between frames as this helps with two things;
1. Allows the image editing program to more accurately recognise areas of comonality between your images, and
2. With all lenses there is a degree of light "fall off". Others will be able to explain this better than me, but here goes... Each lens produces a round circle of light (the image circle) and sometimes this image circle may not fully cover the rectangular shape of the film frame. Hence as you get close to the edge of the circle there is les light and so the outer edges of the circle are slightly underexposed compared to the centre of the cuircle and hence you get darkening towards the outermost edges of the frame.
So if you have a good degree of overlap you get less of this darkening effect and a more even exposure.
For instance here's one I took in Croatia on a small 3M pixel digital point and shoot. 3 frames stitched and then cropped back a bit to about 2 frames real width.
Hope this helps
Chris
To work on getting your verticals vertical you can use the "view grid" command in Photoshop (I have Elements 2, I suspect it must still be there in the full blown version. The use the command somrhting like "Iamge - distort or skew or perspective" then click and drag the top corners of your picture either in or out to start getting your verticals vertical.
However off to the panorama - one of the great things about digital photography is the possibility to do these. One of the trickest things ahs to be matching of exposure between frames. First rule is to expose all frames with the same exposure. I look at the panorama through the camera to determine the appropriate meter reading and then lock this into the camera, I often use manual shutter and aperture settings to make sure. Then take your frames. Aim for at least a 30% overlap between frames as this helps with two things;
1. Allows the image editing program to more accurately recognise areas of comonality between your images, and
2. With all lenses there is a degree of light "fall off". Others will be able to explain this better than me, but here goes... Each lens produces a round circle of light (the image circle) and sometimes this image circle may not fully cover the rectangular shape of the film frame. Hence as you get close to the edge of the circle there is les light and so the outer edges of the circle are slightly underexposed compared to the centre of the cuircle and hence you get darkening towards the outermost edges of the frame.
So if you have a good degree of overlap you get less of this darkening effect and a more even exposure.
For instance here's one I took in Croatia on a small 3M pixel digital point and shoot. 3 frames stitched and then cropped back a bit to about 2 frames real width.
Hope this helps
Chris
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