What lens question
Discussion
Let me start by saying I'm a complete novice when it comes to taking pictures. I bought a Nikon D3200 last year but I want to ask a (hopefully) very straight forward question. I've booked a weekend in Iceland this February coming and hope to see the Northern Lights, is there any particular type of lens I would need to get the best out of the camera?
Thanks
Thanks
If my trip was anything to go by, a filter for getting through the clouds!
More seriously, not being a Nikon type I don't know the specific lenses available, but something reasonably wide and fast. If you want reasonably cheap, but good performance and you don't mind fully manual lens control, maybe have a look at the Samyang 14 2.8?
You'll also need a tripod set up too.
More seriously, not being a Nikon type I don't know the specific lenses available, but something reasonably wide and fast. If you want reasonably cheap, but good performance and you don't mind fully manual lens control, maybe have a look at the Samyang 14 2.8?
You'll also need a tripod set up too.
I did get the 18-55 VR lens with the camera - embarrassingly I've no idea how to do a long exposure. I'll order a tripod today and dig out the user manual.
With regard to budget I'd rather not spend too much as I know I won't get the use out of it but at the same time I'm not likely to get a chance to see the Northern Lights again so want to be prepared as best as possible.
With regard to budget I'd rather not spend too much as I know I won't get the use out of it but at the same time I'm not likely to get a chance to see the Northern Lights again so want to be prepared as best as possible.
Ciaran said:
I'm not likely to get a chance to see the Northern Lights again
I've never seen them myself, but if they're as lovely as people say please remember to actually stop photographing and look at them too. If you are unsure of your technique there's a risk you'll come home with no memories and no photos either!tog said:
I've never seen them myself, but if they're as lovely as people say please remember to actually stop photographing and look at them too. If you are unsure of your technique there's a risk you'll come home with no memories and no photos either!
I know what you mean, duly noted.Ciaran said:
I did get the 18-55 VR lens with the camera - embarrassingly I've no idea how to do a long exposure.
Even on Auto, if you point it a night sky you'll get a long exposure. Or use shutter speed priority and set what you want in seconds. Or find 'B' (see the manual) and the shutter will stay open for as long as you hold the button down. Look at the result on the monitor and adjust as required.Note that cameras can't autofocus on dark/blank sky so you'll need to set focus to manual and on infnity or just before it.
The Tokina 11-16mm 2.8 is probably the best UWA for Nikon DX mount.
Sharp, wide, cheaper than the Nikon options. Make sure you get the DXII version so autofocus works on the D3200.
If cash is tight The 12-24 F4 DXII is much cheaper and can still take good shots, here is one of mine with this lens, I really ought to re-do this shot without the light pollution.
Waverley_Abbey_2 by natureiser, on Flickr
I would disagree that the 18-55 Kit lens is a good choice. I was quite disappointed by the night time images from it. It is sharp enough for web resolution but if you want to blow it up for a big print it's not so good.
The Samyang 14mm is a good lens, but the lack of autofocus is very off putting - I read of lot of information saying the lack of autofocus was not an issue. However a lot of fun with UWA lenses is getting close and putting the camera right up to the subject, camera away from you eye, at hip level, or held above your head for group shots, and the lack of autofocus is a real pain in that situation. It is worth noting the autofocus on the Tokina does not function in liveview, only viewfinder with earlier software updates.
http://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Compare/Side-by-side...
Click on Measurements, then sharpness. You will note the 18-55 is not sharp at 18mm and f3.5, and needs to be stopped down to 5.6 before acceptable results occur.
The Tokina 11-16 needs to be at f3.5 to be sharp and is sharp all the way from 11 - 14mm where you need to close it down to 5.6.
The Tokina 12-24 is sharp at f4 and 12mm ( although at 16mm you need to stop it down to 5.6 )
I would also recommend a lot of practice taking night photos before hand, at least three sessions. There are a lot of issues to solve, you have to judge the exposure by the histogram ( press up and down on the keypad in playback ) as the LCD will give a very false impression of exposure at night.
You have to have a very stable tripod. Preferably something you can hang a bag off for extra stability. Wind is a real issue over 30 seconds of exposure. Redsnapper make a good solid tripod.
Buy a cheap IR remote or use the 10 second delay function on the camera.
Composition is also difficult, its hard to predict how the picture will look in the daytime on your computer. If you just take a picture of the sky it is boring. You need something interesting in the foreground to lead the eye into the picture. You need to scout the location in the daytime and make good note of interesting angles before coming back at night. You need to be aware that the corners are going to be degraded compared to the rest of the image.
Focus is also a total pain to get right. I found it best to have a BIG torch to illuminate the foreground interest and focus on that. On the Tokina's you can hook up a laptop in daytime to the camera and go to live view, then you can use the distance scale and mark perfect infinity focus on the lens. This will change slightly based on temp but is usually good enough.
You also want to use the Nikon DK-5 eyepiece cover to avoid light coming in through the viewfinder.
Sharp, wide, cheaper than the Nikon options. Make sure you get the DXII version so autofocus works on the D3200.
If cash is tight The 12-24 F4 DXII is much cheaper and can still take good shots, here is one of mine with this lens, I really ought to re-do this shot without the light pollution.
Waverley_Abbey_2 by natureiser, on Flickr
I would disagree that the 18-55 Kit lens is a good choice. I was quite disappointed by the night time images from it. It is sharp enough for web resolution but if you want to blow it up for a big print it's not so good.
The Samyang 14mm is a good lens, but the lack of autofocus is very off putting - I read of lot of information saying the lack of autofocus was not an issue. However a lot of fun with UWA lenses is getting close and putting the camera right up to the subject, camera away from you eye, at hip level, or held above your head for group shots, and the lack of autofocus is a real pain in that situation. It is worth noting the autofocus on the Tokina does not function in liveview, only viewfinder with earlier software updates.
http://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Compare/Side-by-side...
Click on Measurements, then sharpness. You will note the 18-55 is not sharp at 18mm and f3.5, and needs to be stopped down to 5.6 before acceptable results occur.
The Tokina 11-16 needs to be at f3.5 to be sharp and is sharp all the way from 11 - 14mm where you need to close it down to 5.6.
The Tokina 12-24 is sharp at f4 and 12mm ( although at 16mm you need to stop it down to 5.6 )
I would also recommend a lot of practice taking night photos before hand, at least three sessions. There are a lot of issues to solve, you have to judge the exposure by the histogram ( press up and down on the keypad in playback ) as the LCD will give a very false impression of exposure at night.
You have to have a very stable tripod. Preferably something you can hang a bag off for extra stability. Wind is a real issue over 30 seconds of exposure. Redsnapper make a good solid tripod.
Buy a cheap IR remote or use the 10 second delay function on the camera.
Composition is also difficult, its hard to predict how the picture will look in the daytime on your computer. If you just take a picture of the sky it is boring. You need something interesting in the foreground to lead the eye into the picture. You need to scout the location in the daytime and make good note of interesting angles before coming back at night. You need to be aware that the corners are going to be degraded compared to the rest of the image.
Focus is also a total pain to get right. I found it best to have a BIG torch to illuminate the foreground interest and focus on that. On the Tokina's you can hook up a laptop in daytime to the camera and go to live view, then you can use the distance scale and mark perfect infinity focus on the lens. This will change slightly based on temp but is usually good enough.
You also want to use the Nikon DK-5 eyepiece cover to avoid light coming in through the viewfinder.
Loaned my Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 to a friend for an Iceland trip for the northern lights. In terms of capturing them it did a good job - only issue was the novice holding the camera, and struggling with focusing to infinity. Canon fit incidentally but it's the same lens.
I've used it for night sky photography (in an area of quite high light pollution) and couldn't fault the Tokina's performance:
Wonky Tree by tenohfive^, on Flickr
Don't forget a decent tripod and remote shutter release though.
I've used it for night sky photography (in an area of quite high light pollution) and couldn't fault the Tokina's performance:
Wonky Tree by tenohfive^, on Flickr
Don't forget a decent tripod and remote shutter release though.
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