Castle Combe Caterham Academy today.
Discussion
) of the shots I took are pants. And I need a bigger zoom. 
Ill be constructive Bill, purely because simply saying "they're lovely mate" won't be any help to you at all.
a)They look a bit underexposed. Presumably it was a bit overcast, but if you shot in RAW format, you can up the EV a little when you open it in Photoshop.
b)You do indeed need a longer zoom!
Making the vehicles larger in the frame would improve the shots.
c)Try panning. With shots like this you presumably want to give the impression of movement. To do this you need to set a shutter speed of about 1/250th. Shutter priority is probably the best setting to use. Set the AF to constant movement mode. Right, get kinda side-on to the cars and track them as they pass. Try to keep the car in the same position in the frame the whole time. Once you have the hang of it, start pressing the shutter as they pass. Track the car before and after pressing the shutter. If you get your panning speed correct (its a bit hit and miss im afraid) then the car will be perfectly in focus, with the background streaked.
E.g:
www.davidhambly.co.uk/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=Sports-Action&id=superbikes1_s
Not the best of shots, but it gives you the idea.
Just my opinions Bill, I hope they're helpful.
Dave
a)They look a bit underexposed. Presumably it was a bit overcast, but if you shot in RAW format, you can up the EV a little when you open it in Photoshop.
b)You do indeed need a longer zoom!
Making the vehicles larger in the frame would improve the shots. c)Try panning. With shots like this you presumably want to give the impression of movement. To do this you need to set a shutter speed of about 1/250th. Shutter priority is probably the best setting to use. Set the AF to constant movement mode. Right, get kinda side-on to the cars and track them as they pass. Try to keep the car in the same position in the frame the whole time. Once you have the hang of it, start pressing the shutter as they pass. Track the car before and after pressing the shutter. If you get your panning speed correct (its a bit hit and miss im afraid) then the car will be perfectly in focus, with the background streaked.
E.g:
www.davidhambly.co.uk/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=Sports-Action&id=superbikes1_s
Not the best of shots, but it gives you the idea.
Just my opinions Bill, I hope they're helpful.
Dave
Mad Dave said:
Ill be constructive Bill, purely because simply saying "they're lovely mate" won't be any help to you at all.
I wouldn't want it any other way, that's why I posted them. Mad Dave said:
a)They look a bit underexposed. Presumably it was a bit overcast, but if you shot in RAW format, you can up the EV a little when you open it in Photoshop.
(What's EV?) It was pretty gloomy, I used "fine" quality and the Nikon software. When I tried increasing the brightness it started to look a bit washed out
Mad Dave said:
b)You do indeed need a longer zoom!
I see you've seen my other thread. Mad Dave said:
c)Try panning. With shots like this you presumably want to give the impression of movement. To do this you need to set a shutter speed of about 1/250th. Shutter priority is probably the best setting to use. Set the AF to constant movement mode. Right, get kinda side-on to the cars and track them as they pass. Try to keep the car in the same position in the frame the whole time. Once you have the hang of it, start pressing the shutter as they pass. Track the car before and after pressing the shutter. If you get your panning speed correct (its a bit hit and miss im afraid) then the car will be perfectly in focus, with the background streaked.
I did try, and I was definately getting better towards the end - early on I had a couple of shots of empty tarmac
. I had it on sport mode, I think I need to investigate the instruction manual. Mad Dave said:
Just my opinions Bill, I hope they're helpful.
Very, thank you Dave, but possibly a bit too technical at this stage
>>> Edit for formatting
>> Edited by mechsympathy on Tuesday 22 March 10:43
mechsympathy said:
Ill be constructive Bill, purely because simply saying "they're lovely mate" won't be any help to you at all.
Mad Dave said:
a)They look a bit underexposed. Presumably it was a bit overcast, but if you shot in RAW format, you can up the EV a little when you open it in Photoshop.
(What's EV?) It was pretty gloomy, I used "fine" quality and the Nikon software. When I tried increasing the brightness it started to look a bit washed out
Mad Dave said:
b)You do indeed need a longer zoom!
Mad Dave said:
c)Try panning. With shots like this you presumably want to give the impression of movement. To do this you need to set a shutter speed of about 1/250th. Shutter priority is probably the best setting to use. Set the AF to constant movement mode. Right, get kinda side-on to the cars and track them as they pass. Try to keep the car in the same position in the frame the whole time. Once you have the hang of it, start pressing the shutter as they pass. Track the car before and after pressing the shutter. If you get your panning speed correct (its a bit hit and miss im afraid) then the car will be perfectly in focus, with the background streaked.
I did try, and I was definately getting better towards the end - early on I had a couple of shots of empty tarmac
Mad Dave said:
Just my opinions Bill, I hope they're helpful.
Very, thank you Dave, but possibly a bit too technical at this stage
>>> Edit for formatting
>> Edited by mechsympathy on Tuesday 22 March 10:43
Firstly it should be said that I am no expert, not by a long way, but I'd like to think I take the odd decent shot here and there (feel free to critique any of the shots on my website if you like).
a)It's best to shoot in 'RAW+JPEG' mode. This way you have the high res file, but have a low res JPEG to aid browsing through quickly.
b)EV is a facility that you get when shooting in RAW. If you underexpose slightly, it enables you to increase the exposure a bit. It's not foolproof, but it is handy.
c)Panning - i've tried it a couple of times and it took me until my 5th film to start getting consistently useable shots. It's not easy, so don't feel disheartened when you get a load of shit to start with!
d)'Sport' mode? SPORT MODE? Sorry Bill, we don't use such things here. A, S or M are the modes you need to be using
Knowing exactly what each function (e.g aperture, shutter speed etc does will aid your photography no end). Set the camera to Shutter Priority (S mode) and set your aperture (with the thumb wheel) to around 1/250th and the aperture (hole in the lense!) will automatically set itself. You're blurring the background so its not hugely important anyway. f8 would be my choice probably. Next time you're passing, pop in - i'll explain the basics of using an SLR manually.
Dave
Mostly been said perfectly eloquently by MD
Underexposed? That'll be a Nikon then?
Digital Raw files are really going to be your best friend here. In fact I'm loving mine
If you're not already familiar with exposure latitude charateristics of film, you might not appreciate what's going on.
Do you remember those old "Comfort" adverts where they try and force all the towels into the chest of drawers. They won't all fit in will they? Where your average image is made up of a whole range of tones you might find they don't all fit in the box, too.
Problem is you don't want to drop any of them, you really want to get them in
Two possibles:
Throw away the top ones.
Throw away the bottom ones.
Nikon characteristics is that the camera tries to ensure that the top ones fit in the top and don't spill over.
If you take RAW images you've got plenty of detail there to go rummaging in the bottom of the drawer and still get all the bottom ones out. Just takes a bit of effort after you've filled the box.
Alternatively, take some time to set the in-camera conversion how you want/like it if you're shooting straight to JPEG. You know all those sharpening and contrast things which hopefully you'll forget to use just as much as those funny picture things that they put round the wrong side of the PASM dial......
(I've taken about a 1000 images so far and I've only used A and M so far, and not a shot other than RAW only)
Underexposed? That'll be a Nikon then?
Digital Raw files are really going to be your best friend here. In fact I'm loving mine
If you're not already familiar with exposure latitude charateristics of film, you might not appreciate what's going on.
Do you remember those old "Comfort" adverts where they try and force all the towels into the chest of drawers. They won't all fit in will they? Where your average image is made up of a whole range of tones you might find they don't all fit in the box, too.
Problem is you don't want to drop any of them, you really want to get them in
Two possibles:
Throw away the top ones.
Throw away the bottom ones.
Nikon characteristics is that the camera tries to ensure that the top ones fit in the top and don't spill over.
If you take RAW images you've got plenty of detail there to go rummaging in the bottom of the drawer and still get all the bottom ones out. Just takes a bit of effort after you've filled the box.
Alternatively, take some time to set the in-camera conversion how you want/like it if you're shooting straight to JPEG. You know all those sharpening and contrast things which hopefully you'll forget to use just as much as those funny picture things that they put round the wrong side of the PASM dial......
(I've taken about a 1000 images so far and I've only used A and M so far, and not a shot other than RAW only)
Mad Dave said:
the aperture (hole in the lense!)
Sarcy farkar!! I'm not that crap
Thanks for the advice (and the offer). I have a book to read, and I'm learning already so hopefully I'll improve. I was a bit short of time yesterday so I couldn't really play around with things.
(And I realise they're not very good, I'm just really chuffed with them/my toy
)
Yep,
Shutter priority mode is the key since you don't have time for manual exposure. You'll need to play with the ISO level's too (start around 200) to ensure the aperture is not too open (otherwise the focus point becomes more critical - ie headlights or helmet in focus, but the rest of the car out of focus). As Dave say, f8 is a good number to aim for.
With shutter priority mode, you'll find pans are best around 1/125 - 1/250 (obviously depending on the speed of the cars). I tend to bump up the shutter speed as high as I can get away with for "hero shots" - the ones where the car is coming towards you / off a slight angle since you don't see the wheels turning.
Sadly (as most will confirm), you'll never have enough zoom!!, prepare to rape your wallet!!
I'd be interested to hear what metering people are using too, since I tend to alternate between evaluative for light coloured/silver objects and center weighted for darker objects.
Steve
Shutter priority mode is the key since you don't have time for manual exposure. You'll need to play with the ISO level's too (start around 200) to ensure the aperture is not too open (otherwise the focus point becomes more critical - ie headlights or helmet in focus, but the rest of the car out of focus). As Dave say, f8 is a good number to aim for.
With shutter priority mode, you'll find pans are best around 1/125 - 1/250 (obviously depending on the speed of the cars). I tend to bump up the shutter speed as high as I can get away with for "hero shots" - the ones where the car is coming towards you / off a slight angle since you don't see the wheels turning.
Sadly (as most will confirm), you'll never have enough zoom!!, prepare to rape your wallet!!
I'd be interested to hear what metering people are using too, since I tend to alternate between evaluative for light coloured/silver objects and center weighted for darker objects.
Steve
I had a bugger about with a couple but theyre so reduced in size that the results are a bit pants.
3 things I would suggest above any other
1)Get down lower. Not easy at Combe I know (that's why bikes are good - they lean!).
2)Get closer/zoom.
3)Read up on 'the rule of thirds'. If you do nothing else, look into this.
3 things I would suggest above any other
1)Get down lower. Not easy at Combe I know (that's why bikes are good - they lean!).
2)Get closer/zoom.
3)Read up on 'the rule of thirds'. If you do nothing else, look into this.
fatsteve said:
I'd be interested to hear what metering people are using too, since I tend to alternate between evaluative for light coloured/silver objects and center weighted for darker objects.
I pretty much always use Spot or Centre-weighted. 90% of the time Spot though. I take a spot reading and either use the AE-Lock or set the camera manually on M mode. In this case I would play it safe and take a reading off an area of the grass that was indicative of the scene (e.g not a bit thats in either bright sunlight or dark shade!).
mechsympathy said:
the aperture (hole in the lense!)
Sarcy farkar!! I'm not that crap
Thanks for the advice (and the offer). I have a book to read, and I'm learning already so hopefully I'll improve. I was a bit short of time yesterday so I couldn't really play around with things.
(And I realise they're not very good, I'm just really chuffed with them/my toy
LOL I wasn't actually trying to be sarcy - when I was first learning, I got frustrated that people DIDN'T treat me as if I knew nothing - they generally assumed a certain level of knowledge that I didn't have, so advice wasn't as useful as it could have been. I guess aperture is pretty obvious though, sorry.
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