D70 / D100 Custom Curves
Discussion
Below is a link to a custom curve site for the D70 & D100. I have loaded the point and shoot curve and the difference is surprising.
1. Point and Shoot v4.1: This is a good replacement curve for D100 and D70 photographers who constantly find themselves having to use EV compensation to correct for dark images. It is calibrated precisely to add the equivalent of +0.5 EV to images while holding more highlight information than if you were to actually set the camera to +0.5 EV. This curve is recommended for most users as a general use curve.
2. EV3 v4.1: This curve does the exact same as the curve above, however, it is calibrated precisely to add the equivalent of +0.33 EV to images. This curve is recommended for people who find the "Point and Shoot" curve too bright.
http://fotogenetic.dearingfilm.com/downloads.html
HTH
Dave
406
1. Point and Shoot v4.1: This is a good replacement curve for D100 and D70 photographers who constantly find themselves having to use EV compensation to correct for dark images. It is calibrated precisely to add the equivalent of +0.5 EV to images while holding more highlight information than if you were to actually set the camera to +0.5 EV. This curve is recommended for most users as a general use curve.
2. EV3 v4.1: This curve does the exact same as the curve above, however, it is calibrated precisely to add the equivalent of +0.33 EV to images. This curve is recommended for people who find the "Point and Shoot" curve too bright.
http://fotogenetic.dearingfilm.com/downloads.html
HTH
Dave
406
Thanks Dave.
I looked at this a while back and passed on it. Firstly, you need Nikon Capture to get the curves into the camera, and my copy refused to see the camera. Secondly, you're right that there's a general tendency to underxposure BUT, just to keep you on your toes, if you've got a high-contrast shot you'll burn the highligts and need -EV instead.
So rather than have all my shots tweaked by the same amount, I stick to doing them one by one as they require.
I looked at this a while back and passed on it. Firstly, you need Nikon Capture to get the curves into the camera, and my copy refused to see the camera. Secondly, you're right that there's a general tendency to underxposure BUT, just to keep you on your toes, if you've got a high-contrast shot you'll burn the highligts and need -EV instead.
So rather than have all my shots tweaked by the same amount, I stick to doing them one by one as they require.
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