Thermal image binoculars - any experts?
Discussion
To help deal with human intruder issues onto farm property at night it has been suggested to us that we get some thermal image binoculars as night vision ones are seemingly only good at short range. It's something I know nothing about so don't even know where to start and am baffled by the prices as some claim to do the job for double digit prices and then there are some in the thousands.
I want to be able to see human shapes at a distance of up to around 500 yards. Needs to be binoculars or similar as it needs to be portable to take and use when moving location to a better vantage point and no, the area cannot be illuminated as there is no power there and not getting into battery powered installations.
Any experts? What specs to look for, pros, cons, things to be aware of etc? Thanks.
I want to be able to see human shapes at a distance of up to around 500 yards. Needs to be binoculars or similar as it needs to be portable to take and use when moving location to a better vantage point and no, the area cannot be illuminated as there is no power there and not getting into battery powered installations.
Any experts? What specs to look for, pros, cons, things to be aware of etc? Thanks.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Night-vision_device
WIkipedia has a pretty good summary of what is available Night Vision Devices.
In the early 1990s I used to service ANVIS Gen 3 NVGs (Night Vision Goggles) so it was interesting to read that this is still more or less the current standard.
They have their disadvantages. If switched on in daylight, without a daylight filter on the lens, they can be destroyed. They will only amplify what light is present, so a moonlit night is almost like daylight, whilst on a cloudy night with minimal moon you won't see much. The cockpit simulator that I used for demonstating the goggles to new users had a infra-red floodlight which was amazing, back to full moon/clear sky equivalent on an overcast/no moon night. The downside is that to anyone else with NVGs you will stick out like a sore thumb!
Some years ago I saw a Gen 2 monocular in Lidl. I've no idea how good it was though.
The best option may be a night camera with a display. Probably far cheaper and more damage resistant than the ANVIS-type.
I've just re-read your question and realised what I've written is not what you are after. This describes thermal image binoculars currently available. I would have thought a specialist who stocks more than one make would be worth a call.
WIkipedia has a pretty good summary of what is available Night Vision Devices.
In the early 1990s I used to service ANVIS Gen 3 NVGs (Night Vision Goggles) so it was interesting to read that this is still more or less the current standard.
They have their disadvantages. If switched on in daylight, without a daylight filter on the lens, they can be destroyed. They will only amplify what light is present, so a moonlit night is almost like daylight, whilst on a cloudy night with minimal moon you won't see much. The cockpit simulator that I used for demonstating the goggles to new users had a infra-red floodlight which was amazing, back to full moon/clear sky equivalent on an overcast/no moon night. The downside is that to anyone else with NVGs you will stick out like a sore thumb!
Some years ago I saw a Gen 2 monocular in Lidl. I've no idea how good it was though.
The best option may be a night camera with a display. Probably far cheaper and more damage resistant than the ANVIS-type.
I've just re-read your question and realised what I've written is not what you are after. This describes thermal image binoculars currently available. I would have thought a specialist who stocks more than one make would be worth a call.
Edited by GliderRider on Wednesday 3rd September 00:21
There are two totally separate approaches. You can go for image intensifier night vision kit; this amplifies visible and near infrared light. It gives you a "black and white" or "black and green" image. Images tend to look fairly natural as you are seeing images created by reflection of visible frequency light. Or you can go for thermal imaging which picks up the far infrared light emitted by "warm" objects. The latter needs no light at all to illuminate an object; it's looking at the light emitted by the object itself. In the good old day's (about 30 years ago) thermal imaging devices were at least the size of a shoe box and needed to be cooled with liquid nitrogen. Now there are some pretty good solid state sensors, so, for example, my mobile phone has a thermal imaging camera. The images are less natural because you're seeing objects' temperature, but if you want to see a person or animal or vehicle in the landscape, these hot objects stick out like a sore thumb.
Just had a quick scout on YT (which is where I should have started before this thread) and this FH25 in Australia is basically what I'm after, but not with the $1500AU price tag :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ovniv1k8NY4
0:49 to 1:27 ish.
I note in the comments some guy mentions a "T2" that is "about the size of a bottle cap" and plugs into your mobile phone for power and screen for cheap monies, but I want a stand-alone device preferably.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ovniv1k8NY4
0:49 to 1:27 ish.
I note in the comments some guy mentions a "T2" that is "about the size of a bottle cap" and plugs into your mobile phone for power and screen for cheap monies, but I want a stand-alone device preferably.
Edited by Tisy on Wednesday 3rd September 00:43
ATG said:
There are two totally separate approaches. You can go for image intensifier night vision kit; this amplifies visible and near infrared light. It gives you a "black and white" or "black and green" image. Images tend to look fairly natural as you are seeing images created by reflection of visible frequency light. Or you can go for thermal imaging which picks up the far infrared light emitted by "warm" objects. The latter needs no light at all to illuminate an object; it's looking at the light emitted by the object itself. In the good old day's (about 30 years ago) thermal imaging devices were at least the size of a shoe box and needed to be cooled with liquid nitrogen. Now there are some pretty good solid state sensors, so, for example, my mobile phone has a thermal imaging camera. The images are less natural because you're seeing objects' temperature, but if you want to see a person or animal or vehicle in the landscape, these hot objects stick out like a sore thumb.
Yes, that's basically my requirement - see my post above. I don't need amazing object definition as there are no animals on the land (such as large sheep/cows) and hopefully I would only see maybe some hares/rabbits and perhaps a fox, which are all significantly smaller and a completely different shape to a 6ft tall human.Aside from the lighting on the exterior of the house (which is off at night unless specifically needed) there is no other fixed lighting to the boundary, so infrared wouldn't work as there's no light to be "amplified" hence the requirement for thermal imaging.
Search for "thermal monocular". Half the price of binoculars!
Here in the UK we have numerous national chains of photo/optical equipment shops who would be the go-to for hands-on advice etc. Guess that's likely much more difficult in Aus. I've no experience of them but note the wide price range.
... just clicked your vid, that's exactly what you've found, sorry
Here in the UK we have numerous national chains of photo/optical equipment shops who would be the go-to for hands-on advice etc. Guess that's likely much more difficult in Aus. I've no experience of them but note the wide price range.
... just clicked your vid, that's exactly what you've found, sorry
Edited by hengti on Wednesday 3rd September 06:17
I once had a look through one of the Qioptiq VIPIR-2 weapon sights used by the Army, and they were decent. Almost unfair watching some poor bugger stumbling about in pitch black when you can see them as clear as day.
Unsure if you could give them a call and order one, but they do have a sales number and a UK address. But looking at that video the Hik Micro FH24 seems to do what you'd need and can be bought for around £1k so I'd go for that.
Unsure if you could give them a call and order one, but they do have a sales number and a UK address. But looking at that video the Hik Micro FH24 seems to do what you'd need and can be bought for around £1k so I'd go for that.
I sell Hik Micro
The Habrok thermal/nv monoculars would fit the bill
a thermal image will always be better for your chosen purpose as it picks up heat whereas a NV image you have to see it directly. If something is trying to conceal itself or move around trying to avoid detection the You can sometimes miss this with NV
The Habrok thermal/nv monoculars would fit the bill
a thermal image will always be better for your chosen purpose as it picks up heat whereas a NV image you have to see it directly. If something is trying to conceal itself or move around trying to avoid detection the You can sometimes miss this with NV
Gassing Station | Photography & Video | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff