Mount cutting problems
Discussion
Hi Guys,
A few weeks ago I spent some £60-odd on a cutting board, 45 degree cutter, scalpel, ruler, set square etc etc. I've now made numerous attempts at learning how to cut mounts and i totally arse up every single one. I'm fine until I get to the bit where I have to use the 45degree cutter (see picture below) where it either:
a)cuts the first inch in an arc, so the corners look awful
b)fails to cut right through the board (despite having changed no settings since the last cut)
c)bends the blade
d)snaps the blade
I'm getting really REALLY pissed off now and i'm ready the lob the lot into the bin and give up - so, before i do that, does anyone have any tips or recommended equipment for cutting the bevelled edge?!
Thanks!!
Dave

A few weeks ago I spent some £60-odd on a cutting board, 45 degree cutter, scalpel, ruler, set square etc etc. I've now made numerous attempts at learning how to cut mounts and i totally arse up every single one. I'm fine until I get to the bit where I have to use the 45degree cutter (see picture below) where it either:
a)cuts the first inch in an arc, so the corners look awful
b)fails to cut right through the board (despite having changed no settings since the last cut)
c)bends the blade
d)snaps the blade
I'm getting really REALLY pissed off now and i'm ready the lob the lot into the bin and give up - so, before i do that, does anyone have any tips or recommended equipment for cutting the bevelled edge?!
Thanks!!
Dave

I don't recognise that cutter, does it have a groove in it to fit the ruler ? I wonder if its meant more for cutting curves rather than straight lines ? The Logan Team System 2000 is a good starting point as it combines a specially matched cutter and ruler. Also what are you cutting on ? You need to have a bit of sacrificial mounting board (don't recommend those cutting mats) underneath the piece of mountboard you are cutting.
I've got that cutter and it's not too bad, providing you allow for the fact that the first cut (ie the corners) is the hard bit.
I mark the four corners of the aperture on the back of the board, draw the straight lines, then push the cutter in to one of the points, with the cutter facing outwards, to get the correct angle:
Next, push a ruler up to the cutter, and then slide along, slowly, stopping just before the end of the line.
Now I carefully finish off the corners and end up with something like this:
(please note I just did this as fast as I could to show you, normally i'd take more care and get a much cleaner corner)
edit to add:
don't get to anal about it, when a picture is framed and on the wall I 100% guarantee you that not one person would notice a corner like the one above - and it's easy to do better than that if you are a bit careful.
>> Edited by _dobbo_ on Sunday 8th January 19:21
I mark the four corners of the aperture on the back of the board, draw the straight lines, then push the cutter in to one of the points, with the cutter facing outwards, to get the correct angle:
Next, push a ruler up to the cutter, and then slide along, slowly, stopping just before the end of the line.
Now I carefully finish off the corners and end up with something like this:
(please note I just did this as fast as I could to show you, normally i'd take more care and get a much cleaner corner)
edit to add:
don't get to anal about it, when a picture is framed and on the wall I 100% guarantee you that not one person would notice a corner like the one above - and it's easy to do better than that if you are a bit careful.
>> Edited by _dobbo_ on Sunday 8th January 19:21
You are probably suffering from pressing too hard.
The cutter you have is very small in length. Follow Dobbo's advice, always always cut from the rear (unless you want "perfect" corners, then cut all but 2mm away from the corner from the rear and finish the corners off "by eye" from the front - you can see the crossing point that way - and be paitent.
Get some card and try doing a 2" x 2" hole, then move upwards.
Practice, particularly with such a small cutter, is all it's going to take.
J
The cutter you have is very small in length. Follow Dobbo's advice, always always cut from the rear (unless you want "perfect" corners, then cut all but 2mm away from the corner from the rear and finish the corners off "by eye" from the front - you can see the crossing point that way - and be paitent.
Get some card and try doing a 2" x 2" hole, then move upwards.
Practice, particularly with such a small cutter, is all it's going to take.
J
I've found that some board is easier to cut than other makes, but even the thicker stuff can be cut easily if you use several light cuts rather than trying to do it all in one go.
Another tip is to not cut all the way into the edges of the corners (just leave a very small sliver), and to finish this by hand with a spare blade right at the end.
If you really struggle and decide to try another cutter, I use the Longridge Duo system which was recommended to me by several other people, and I've found it to be really easy to use.
>> Edited by ehasler on Monday 9th January 11:04
Another tip is to not cut all the way into the edges of the corners (just leave a very small sliver), and to finish this by hand with a spare blade right at the end.
If you really struggle and decide to try another cutter, I use the Longridge Duo system which was recommended to me by several other people, and I've found it to be really easy to use.
>> Edited by ehasler on Monday 9th January 11:04
Thanks chaps, especially Dobbo, for your advice. I'll take the cutter back and try to get another one that clips to a ruler. Reading on the website, it does say that it can be used freehand for cutting weird and wonderful shapes!
I was cutting on a cutting board which was on my dining table, though it's pine and about 20years old so very likely not 100% flat (unlike yours Dobbo, which I can see is beautifully level!). My ruler also seemed a little bowed in the middle.
You're probably right about practise, but I managed to get about a dozen test cuts done perfectly - but then as soon as I try to cut the centre out of the board I want to keep, it goes pear shaped. Sod's law I guess!

I was cutting on a cutting board which was on my dining table, though it's pine and about 20years old so very likely not 100% flat (unlike yours Dobbo, which I can see is beautifully level!). My ruler also seemed a little bowed in the middle.
You're probably right about practise, but I managed to get about a dozen test cuts done perfectly - but then as soon as I try to cut the centre out of the board I want to keep, it goes pear shaped. Sod's law I guess!

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