using studio lighting
Discussion
When using flashes and various studio lights, does the camera know what strength flashes/softboxes etc are plugged into the hot shoe, so you can choose shutter or apperture priority, and the same question again if you are shooting manual. The same question again for macro lighting - Basically, how does it all work 
Speaking of macro flashes, do the canon ones have an adjustable strength? Or will every shot have the effect of the natural lighting always being bleached out?
>> Edited by UKBob on Sunday 19th February 20:59
Speaking of macro flashes, do the canon ones have an adjustable strength? Or will every shot have the effect of the natural lighting always being bleached out?
>> Edited by UKBob on Sunday 19th February 20:59
Alternatively, if you had your own studio, trial and error and memory should work fine (or do all photographers use a meter?)
Looking at the canon macro Twin Lite MT-24EX - how close can you get to a subject without the flash being too powerful - is there a danger of whiting-out the subject at too close a range?
Looking at the canon macro Twin Lite MT-24EX - how close can you get to a subject without the flash being too powerful - is there a danger of whiting-out the subject at too close a range?
the shutter speed is irrelevant when using studio lighting in general... the flash duration/power determines the amount of light generated and the aperture of your lens will determine how much light you are letting in.
studio flashes have different and adjustable power outputs. you adjust to the aperture you want. you can use a flash meter for an accurate reading and how to balance lights. generally you pick the aperture you want to use and go to work on the lights to meet that.
if you use a longer shutter you will allow abmient light to creep in.. i.e. when shooting location/interiors by using a slower shutter speed ambient light will not be suppressed and will be picked up. remember to balance whatever ambient light is there.
then really you just experiment to what you want to acheive.. bearing in mind anything below 9ish will be a solid black and anything above 250ish will be white.. so no need to blow highlights aggressively to get a white out and then the light creeping back in... unless you want that effect. its a simple case of shooting and measuring and adjusting.
studio flashes have different and adjustable power outputs. you adjust to the aperture you want. you can use a flash meter for an accurate reading and how to balance lights. generally you pick the aperture you want to use and go to work on the lights to meet that.
if you use a longer shutter you will allow abmient light to creep in.. i.e. when shooting location/interiors by using a slower shutter speed ambient light will not be suppressed and will be picked up. remember to balance whatever ambient light is there.
then really you just experiment to what you want to acheive.. bearing in mind anything below 9ish will be a solid black and anything above 250ish will be white.. so no need to blow highlights aggressively to get a white out and then the light creeping back in... unless you want that effect. its a simple case of shooting and measuring and adjusting.
UKBob said:
Alternatively, if you had your own studio, trial and error and memory should work fine (or do all photographers use a meter?)
Meters are useful when you're starting out, but it's down to personal choice. I haven't used a flash meter for about 6 years. I select my working aperture, adjust the power on the packs and shoot a test. Then I have a look at the result/histogram, and adjust the power/lighting as necessary. I'm not usually more than a stop out but that is just down to experience. It takes no longer to shot a test than hold a meter and it's not as though you're wasting film.
basicly a monobloc is a huge capacitor that builds up the charge to power the flash and they have a habit of dumping when they can't hold it any longer.. and if you are connected by a wire to it the charge goes down there.. unlike mechanical film cameras where no damage is done.. in a DSLR or Back the sensor will get fried. the bigger pacs tend to have a lower voltage output making it safer... although I don't like connecting my camera to anything apart from my pc..
bacchus180 said:Is this solved by having small camera flash trigger a slave? You've got me worried now (not that I own a camera or monobloc's
basicly a monobloc is a huge capacitor that builds up the charge to power the flash and they have a habit of dumping when they can't hold it any longer.. and if you are connected by a wire to it the charge goes down there.. unlike mechanical film cameras where no damage is done.. in a DSLR or Back the sensor will get fried. the bigger pacs tend to have a lower voltage output making it safer... although I don't like connecting my camera to anything apart from my pc..
) What are the odds of this happening anyway? Who else doesnt connect monoblocs incase this happens?I wouldn't worry to much about it. Most flash made within the last 10 years will be fine. I would be wary of anything older or made in China. There were problems with a pack called a Norman 2000PS which did fry things. Norman are American and sold here, but they are a bit specialist so your unlikely to come across them. The most popular stuff, Bowens and Elichrom should be fine, not sure about older Courtney though. Just double check with your camera manufacturer if in doubt.
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