Low Light stuff
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Podie

Original Poster:

46,649 posts

305 months

Wednesday 15th March 2006
quotequote all
Right, first off I'm still pretty new to this malarky - so go easy on me.

1 I've clearly got this wrong. It's grainy (ISO too high?), although it was hand-held so there is a bit of camera shake! My real question is how do I stop the street lamp from looking like the sun... and more like er... a street light?



2 Arty-type angle but it just doesn't look right - what have I done wrong here...?



3 Bit happier with this one, but again a bit of an issue with the lamp



4 Probably my favourite, but I'd welcome suggestions and pointers...


TIA for any advice.

>> Edited by Podie on Wednesday 15th March 21:33

_dobbo_

14,619 posts

278 months

Wednesday 15th March 2006
quotequote all
3 looks the best by far to me. The main problem in the others is as you have already said - high ISO = noise.

Plus the white balance looks a bit out to me, because they are all under artificial light.

To get low noise in low light you need low ISO, which means you need a tripod, and a longer exposure. Adjusting the white balance in these should make a world of difference though.

Podie

Original Poster:

46,649 posts

305 months

Wednesday 15th March 2006
quotequote all
1 was at about 1600, and although I expected noise, I think there is a bit of camera shake in there too.

3 and 4 were taken on a tripod, but 2 was hand-held.

Ah, see what you mean about the white balance... think I'l;l be freezing my ass of tomorrow night as well then not quite thawed out yet...

_dobbo_

14,619 posts

278 months

Wednesday 15th March 2006
quotequote all
You can fix white balance fairly easily if you shoot in RAW. If not, adjusting the individual colours can work wonders. presto:



very quick and dirty as i've only got paintshoppro 5 on the work PC, but you get the idea.

If you've got a tripod then you will find you get more pleasing light effects by using much lower iso and much longer shutter speeds. edit to add - use a timer as well rather than touching the camera, this will eliminate all camera shake (assuming it's not blowing a gale...)

>> Edited by _dobbo_ on Wednesday 15th March 21:44

Podie

Original Poster:

46,649 posts

305 months

Wednesday 15th March 2006
quotequote all
Yep, shooting in RAW... just been into RawShooter and come up with this...

Podie

Original Poster:

46,649 posts

305 months

Wednesday 15th March 2006
quotequote all
Thanks for the help dobbo.

Podie

Original Poster:

46,649 posts

305 months

Wednesday 15th March 2006
quotequote all
_dobbo_ said:
edit to add - use a timer as well rather than touching the camera, this will eliminate all camera shake (assuming it's not blowing a gale...)


made that mistake already this evening...

_dobbo_

14,619 posts

278 months

Wednesday 15th March 2006
quotequote all
Looks much better to me! I'm finding more and more now that the auto-white balance isn't quite correct in my camera, and AdobeRaw makes a better job of most images.

With regard to number 2 - I think it's the front wheel that isn't right, probably could do with being turned the other way, or being straight.

All in all though, I like 3 and 4 (now that you've fixed the white balance)

_dobbo_

14,619 posts

278 months

Wednesday 15th March 2006
quotequote all
Podie said:
Thanks for the help dobbo.


No, thank you for not editing your original post with all updated pics and making me look like an idiot going on about white balance!

Podie

Original Poster:

46,649 posts

305 months

Wednesday 15th March 2006
quotequote all
_dobbo_ said:
Looks much better to me! I'm finding more and more now that the auto-white balance isn't quite correct in my camera, and AdobeRaw makes a better job of most images.


Must admit I forgot to check the white balance settings on the camera, so it was left on auto (although Canon's seem to be reasonable on that front). Still, live and learn!

_dobbo_ said:

With regard to number 2 - I think it's the front wheel that isn't right, probably could do with being turned the other way, or being straight.

hmm.. interesting thought... see what you mean

_dobbo_ said:

All in all though, I like 3 and 4 (now that you've fixed the white balance)


Ta.

Thanks for the advice and support. Much appreciated.

poah

2,142 posts

258 months

Wednesday 15th March 2006
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think I went too far

LongQ

13,864 posts

263 months

Wednesday 15th March 2006
quotequote all
A few ideas to add to the pot ...

Hand held is always iffy but the bright streetlight may be resolvable by using a graduated Neutral Density filter (or two) though tripod would be required.

Alternatively (definitely tripod) take to shots or more and combiner them - HDR I think the technique is referred to.

There also seems to be a way of removing or reducing noise by taking a 'black shot' or a name something like that and then adding that to the original in PS.

Not having a suitable DSLR to play with I have only read about this and may have got the wrong impression. But there are a load of shots in the archives here

http://thedailyexposure.blogspot.com

using low light and a few recent to current date shots (like in the last 3 or 4 blog posts on the site) which use the multi-exposure technique. Not much sign of noise though he tends to mostly use ISO 200 these days. Some older shots around the new year, iirc, were higher ISO (Nikon D70 btw) and very long - multi-minute - exposures showing very little noise.



Podie

Original Poster:

46,649 posts

305 months

Wednesday 15th March 2006
quotequote all
Thanks - interesting blog that (picture wise, not read it)

In the first instance I was attempting to see the threshold at which I could hold the camera steady so I've established that quite quickly!

dcw@pr

3,516 posts

273 months

Thursday 16th March 2006
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_dobbo_ said:
use a timer as well rather than touching the camera, this will eliminate all camera shake (assuming it's not blowing a gale...)


not really. the shake when using a tripod will be more from the mirror flip up than from you hand, unless you are using a hammer to press the shutter release. use mirror lock up if your camera has one. you can also use the timer too if you feel like it. some cameras have a 2 second one for this purpose which is useful.

also bear in mind that you only need worry about these things if your shutter speed si between about 1/30 and 1/1. Either side of these and you shouldn't have too much of a problem.

ehasler

8,579 posts

313 months

Thursday 16th March 2006
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Podie said:
In the first instance I was attempting to see the threshold at which I could hold the camera steady so I've established that quite quickly!
General rule of thumb for this is 1/focal length of lens, so if you're shooting with a 50mm lens, you'd want a shutter speed faster than 1/50 sec.

dcw@pr

3,516 posts

273 months

Thursday 16th March 2006
quotequote all
ehasler said:
Podie said:
In the first instance I was attempting to see the threshold at which I could hold the camera steady so I've established that quite quickly!
General rule of thumb for this is 1/focal length of lens, so if you're shooting with a 50mm lens, you'd want a shutter speed faster than 1/50 sec.


don't forget about the digital crop factor

Podie

Original Poster:

46,649 posts

305 months

Thursday 16th March 2006
quotequote all
dcw@pr said:
....use mirror lock up if your camera has one.


300D...


dcw@pr said:
also bear in mind that you only need worry about these things if your shutter speed si between about 1/30 and 1/1. Either side of these and you shouldn't have too much of a problem.


Ta.