Sometimes they work and sometimes not
Discussion
Thought this looked great on the small screen on the back of my 350D. Followed Graham's advice about shutter speeds for prop aircraft, great light, aircraft at an interesting angle, pilot visible, panned with it, waited for the crucial moment to press the button instead of motor driving away, and... aargh ! Camera shake:
Have to stick with this instead:
Looking at a number of images I've taken I seem to be able to pan better when the subject is going from left to right. Anyone else have a preferred direction ?
Have to stick with this instead:
Looking at a number of images I've taken I seem to be able to pan better when the subject is going from left to right. Anyone else have a preferred direction ?
Trick is to move with your body rather than the camera. Position your feet aiming toward the end of the pan, and twist your body uncomfortably at the start of the pan. Always start the pan uncomfortable, and end it comfortable. Twist around your hips, hold the camera lightly, and gently squeeze the shutter.
I've been filming on long lenses for telly for years, this has always worked very well for me
I've been filming on long lenses for telly for years, this has always worked very well for me
Parrot of Doom said:
Trick is to move with your body rather than the camera. Position your feet aiming toward the end of the pan, and twist your body uncomfortably at the start of the pan. Always start the pan uncomfortable, and end it comfortable. Twist around your hips, hold the camera lightly, and gently squeeze the shutter.
This is great advise folks...just wish people wouldn't give all these "trade secrets" away!
Martin.
I must remember that 
I always start off comfortable and end up in knots 
As for the email address, just a moment in Photoshop creating a new layer and using the text tool.
Or probably copying and pasting an existing image of that text onto a new layer tbh, which is what I do.
te5icle...you think that's tricky (although you got a nice clear one in the end) try the Chinook or the Osprey. The rotation is so slooooow you have to go down to 1/60 or so. In about 100 shots of each, I think I have one sharp one
I always start off comfortable and end up in knots As for the email address, just a moment in Photoshop creating a new layer and using the text tool.
Or probably copying and pasting an existing image of that text onto a new layer tbh, which is what I do.
te5icle...you think that's tricky (although you got a nice clear one in the end) try the Chinook or the Osprey. The rotation is so slooooow you have to go down to 1/60 or so. In about 100 shots of each, I think I have one sharp one
Edited by graham@reading on Wednesday 19th July 00:10
Gorgeous second shot. I, too, prefer L>R pans. I'll dig one out tmw
As for the email address, just a moment in Photoshop creating a new layer and using the text tool.
Or probably copying and pasting an existing image of that text onto a new layer tbh, which is what I do.
That's a bit of a pain, compared to using a signature brush:
www.myjanee.com/tuts/brush/cbrush7.htm
graham@reading said:
As for the email address, just a moment in Photoshop creating a new layer and using the text tool.
Or probably copying and pasting an existing image of that text onto a new layer tbh, which is what I do.
That's a bit of a pain, compared to using a signature brush:
www.myjanee.com/tuts/brush/cbrush7.htm
Parrot of Doom said:
Trick is to move with your body rather than the camera. Position your feet aiming toward the end of the pan, and twist your body uncomfortably at the start of the pan. Always start the pan uncomfortable, and end it comfortable. Twist around your hips, hold the camera lightly, and gently squeeze the shutter.
I've been filming on long lenses for telly for years, this has always worked very well for me
I've been filming on long lenses for telly for years, this has always worked very well for me
Totally correct, and also the same technique is used for clay pigeon shooting...
I am a beginner and have owned my DSLR for 3 months. I found only left to right pans turned out good enough to keep to start with. Until I read somewhere exactly the advice that Parrot of doom has given
. Now I get more keepers when panning including these two (1 from each direction):
That advice sounds remarkably simple but really does make a difference.
Ray.
Edited to add: I am still learning though so for every keeper I get there is probably about 5 embarrassingly rubbish shots
!
. Now I get more keepers when panning including these two (1 from each direction): That advice sounds remarkably simple but really does make a difference.
Ray.
Edited to add: I am still learning though so for every keeper I get there is probably about 5 embarrassingly rubbish shots
! Edited by Britcarfan on Wednesday 19th July 12:26
Recently I read in a photography magazine that said panning shots should 'always' be left to right, because that's the way we read and that's the way our brain expects movement to be. There might be something scientific in that but if you ask me it's a load of twoddle, I do however find left to right a whole lot more comfortable.
rhubarb said:
Recently I read in a photography magazine that said panning shots should 'always' be left to right, because that's the way we read and that's the way our brain expects movement to be. There might be something scientific in that but if you ask me it's a load of twoddle, I do however find left to right a whole lot more comfortable.
You left or right handed...
I'm a leftie and find right to left easier to control...
Then again, all bloody cameras are right handed...
Bear with me on this but how do you guys stand?
I normally stand with my left foot forward, trunk turned 1/2 left, left arm tucked into the left side of my chest wall supporting the lense, right arm consequently slightly across the front of my chest and my head turned left approx 2/3. From this position it is far harder to turn left than it is right, leading to better panning left to right.
So for better right to left panning you should start from a less stable feeling position (ie same foot position as if you're planning a static shot at the point you hope to capture the picture) but with your trunk turned less to the left.
IYSWIM
I normally stand with my left foot forward, trunk turned 1/2 left, left arm tucked into the left side of my chest wall supporting the lense, right arm consequently slightly across the front of my chest and my head turned left approx 2/3. From this position it is far harder to turn left than it is right, leading to better panning left to right.
So for better right to left panning you should start from a less stable feeling position (ie same foot position as if you're planning a static shot at the point you hope to capture the picture) but with your trunk turned less to the left.
IYSWIM
Cue lots of people standing up at work pretending to take pics
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