How to do a night shoot
Discussion
Hi,I am seeking advice for a task this evening... so where better than Pistonheads! 
I go to boarding school, and my housemaster has asked me to get some good quality photos of the boarding house at night....
I have got a tripod, and have a Nikon D50 and 18-55 and a 70-300. Is it better to use the wide angle?
What is the best way to setup the camera for at night - I will be shooting JPEG, so what white balance? Shutter priority, Apature Priority or Manual? - What ISO?
Should I use the flash or not?
Thanks in advance,
GFWilliams

I go to boarding school, and my housemaster has asked me to get some good quality photos of the boarding house at night....
I have got a tripod, and have a Nikon D50 and 18-55 and a 70-300. Is it better to use the wide angle?
What is the best way to setup the camera for at night - I will be shooting JPEG, so what white balance? Shutter priority, Apature Priority or Manual? - What ISO?
Should I use the flash or not?
Thanks in advance,
GFWilliams
Same as daylight really lens wise! Usually whichever lens you'd use for buildings, so probably wide angle, but maybe something longer if needed.
You want 100 or 200 ISO for best quality - speed doesn't matter too much you have a tripod.
I'd use bulb - it's more fun! Set the apperture to f8-f11 and use the shutter release to hold the shutter open for different lengths of time and look at the result on screen/histogram. This is a great way to learn. Th alternative is to set app. priority mode and let the camera meter the scene, but that's boring! Remember to bracket the exposures and use a release or the self timer if you don't have one.
SHout if the exposures get longer than 30s or so I'l give some more tips to reduce noise...
Dont use the flash, but if you have a standalone flash gun it's quite fun to run round with a flash gun during the exposure to "paint" with it - but make sure you don't leave a shadow.
Oh, and don't forget to post the results!
You want 100 or 200 ISO for best quality - speed doesn't matter too much you have a tripod.
I'd use bulb - it's more fun! Set the apperture to f8-f11 and use the shutter release to hold the shutter open for different lengths of time and look at the result on screen/histogram. This is a great way to learn. Th alternative is to set app. priority mode and let the camera meter the scene, but that's boring! Remember to bracket the exposures and use a release or the self timer if you don't have one.
SHout if the exposures get longer than 30s or so I'l give some more tips to reduce noise...
Dont use the flash, but if you have a standalone flash gun it's quite fun to run round with a flash gun during the exposure to "paint" with it - but make sure you don't leave a shadow.
Oh, and don't forget to post the results!
VxDuncan said:
Same as daylight really lens wise! Usually whichever lens you'd use for buildings, so probably wide angle, but maybe something longer if needed.
You want 100 or 200 ISO for best quality - speed doesn't matter too much you have a tripod.
I'd use bulb - it's more fun! Set the apperture to f8-f11 and use the shutter release to hold the shutter open for different lengths of time and look at the result on screen/histogram. This is a great way to learn. Th alternative is to set app. priority mode and let the camera meter the scene, but that's boring! Remember to bracket the exposures and use a release or the self timer if you don't have one.
SHout if the exposures get longer than 30s or so I'l give some more tips to reduce noise...
Dont use the flash, but if you have a standalone flash gun it's quite fun to run round with a flash gun during the exposure to "paint" with it - but make sure you don't leave a shadow.
Oh, and don't forget to post the results!
thanks for the tips... will post up afterYou want 100 or 200 ISO for best quality - speed doesn't matter too much you have a tripod.
I'd use bulb - it's more fun! Set the apperture to f8-f11 and use the shutter release to hold the shutter open for different lengths of time and look at the result on screen/histogram. This is a great way to learn. Th alternative is to set app. priority mode and let the camera meter the scene, but that's boring! Remember to bracket the exposures and use a release or the self timer if you don't have one.
SHout if the exposures get longer than 30s or so I'l give some more tips to reduce noise...
Dont use the flash, but if you have a standalone flash gun it's quite fun to run round with a flash gun during the exposure to "paint" with it - but make sure you don't leave a shadow.
Oh, and don't forget to post the results!
might try the light painting..
any other tips alsoappreciated
Thanks again,
GFWilliams
Try shoot RAW if you can will be worth it.
Either try for the above magic hour to get some sky detail or wait for a clear nite & get some stars (if possible).
Also try use a cable release or timed shot (and with mirror lockup) because pressing the shutter button is likely to introduce shake.
Either try for the above magic hour to get some sky detail or wait for a clear nite & get some stars (if possible).
Also try use a cable release or timed shot (and with mirror lockup) because pressing the shutter button is likely to introduce shake.
ok, here goes:
they havn't been edited yet...
www.gfwilliams.org.uk/001.jpg
and
www.gfwilliams.org.uk/002.jpg
they havn't been edited yet...
www.gfwilliams.org.uk/001.jpg
and
www.gfwilliams.org.uk/002.jpg
Edited by GFWilliams on Wednesday 6th June 22:23
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