Photography in difficult conditions
Photography in difficult conditions
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CommanderJameson

Original Poster:

22,096 posts

257 months

Tuesday 9th October 2007
quotequote all
I've got to take some pictures of computer kit for a training manual (back panel shots, that sort of thing) and I've had a crack at it - but the pictures are, frankly, cack. The lighting conditions are very difficult - fluorescent lighting, close-up and low ISO required.

Are there any tricks I could try? In order to avoid washing out the image, I've turned the flash right down but then it's all a bit dark. Using ambient light means that I end up with an exposure that's a bit too long, and I don't have a tripod.

I'm a bit stumped as to how to get some even half-decent pictures under these conditions.

Famous Graham

26,553 posts

256 months

Tuesday 9th October 2007
quotequote all
I'm guessing it's onboard flash? Turning it off would be preferrable as it'll reflect off the metal.

Got any anglepoise lamps or similar around?

You could also set the camera to 2 sec delay, or whatever the self timer is on yours and nestle it in a jumper or something.

Edited by Famous Graham on Tuesday 9th October 11:01

Rednut05

9,173 posts

244 months

Tuesday 9th October 2007
quotequote all
Can you diffuse the lights to reduce the glare upon the subject?

Shine the light through a sheet to diffuse it. See if it makes any difference.

I wouldn't have thought that you'd need flash?

Can you move the subject near to natural light? i.e. a conservatory mid day?

David

stigmundfreud

22,454 posts

241 months

Tuesday 9th October 2007
quotequote all
spot meter by aiming at the back lit pannel. Increase exposure by 2 stops and this should mean you have exposed for the highlight, the rest should fall into play around that. The ambient light will then do the rest. Your on board meter will say over exposed but you are spotting for the light source (in this case monitor)

try that, pop up flash will just give you highlights in the top half of the picture and dead light at the bottom (ie crap) as they are almost always too close to the lens. If you are holding by hand you are looking at anything slower than 0.5 secs will get shaky.

I say use spot meter but it depends on your camera. Any EOS based canon should have this option to you. Get on msn if you want

CommanderJameson

Original Poster:

22,096 posts

257 months

Tuesday 9th October 2007
quotequote all
Thanks to all, I shall do further battle with the dodgy lighting in our test bays later on today. Natural light is not available, unfortunately, but I might be able to round up a desk lamp or two.

stigmundfreud

22,454 posts

241 months

Tuesday 9th October 2007
quotequote all
your light isnt an issue really, what camera have you got - whack it in to RAW if possible so you can adjust the colour temp at post process time. Use AWB by default then adjust raw later.


CommanderJameson

Original Poster:

22,096 posts

257 months

Tuesday 9th October 2007
quotequote all
stigmundfreud said:
your light isnt an issue really, what camera have you got - whack it in to RAW if possible so you can adjust the colour temp at post process time. Use AWB by default then adjust raw later.
Canon PowerShot S3 - no RAW output, unfortunately.

Famous Graham

26,553 posts

256 months

Tuesday 9th October 2007
quotequote all
stigmundfreud said:
your light isnt an issue really
Photographing metallic objects, light most definitely IS an issue

stigmundfreud

22,454 posts

241 months

Tuesday 9th October 2007
quotequote all
Famous Graham said:
stigmundfreud said:
your light isnt an issue really
Photographing metallic objects, light most definitely IS an issue
I was meaning the available light shouldnt be as big an issue but that was dependant on the camera to hand I suppose. Dare I suggest HDR driving

CommanderJameson

Original Poster:

22,096 posts

257 months

Tuesday 9th October 2007
quotequote all
stigmundfreud said:
Famous Graham said:
stigmundfreud said:
your light isnt an issue really
Photographing metallic objects, light most definitely IS an issue
I was meaning the available light shouldnt be as big an issue but that was dependant on the camera to hand I suppose. Dare I suggest HDR driving
HDR would be a fab idea (I have a copy of photomatix) but no tripod...

stigmundfreud

22,454 posts

241 months

Tuesday 9th October 2007
quotequote all
cant you selotape it to some form of platorm?

CommanderJameson

Original Poster:

22,096 posts

257 months

Tuesday 9th October 2007
quotequote all
stigmundfreud said:
cant you selotape it to some form of platorm?
I might rob a tripod from an unsuspecting colleague for maximum HDR goodness.