Couple more d300 pics with flash
Discussion
(n.b. pls click on pics as PH is asking your web browser to resize and its making them look terrible!)
Not great pics but my first experiment with using the SB-800 speedlight I bought on Sat was at a birthday party and there were a couple of famous people there. Due to a cock up, they do show some aspects of high iso performance too.

(Sir Peter Blake & John Hoyland)
Exposure Time = 1/60"
F Number = F5.6
Exposure Program = Aperture priority
ISO Speed Ratings = 2000
Exif Version = Version 2.2
Date Time Original = 2008-01-27 16:18:43
Date Time Digitized = 2008-01-27 16:18:43
Components Configuration = YCbcr
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Max Aperture Value = F4.76
Metering Mode = CenterWeightedAverage
Light Source = Tungsten (incandescent light)
Flash = Flash fired, compulsory flash mode, return light detected
Focal Length = 55mm

(Henry Blofeld)
Exposure Time = 1/60"
F Number = F5.3
Exposure Program = Aperture priority
ISO Speed Ratings = 1400
Exif Version = Version 2.2
Date Time Original = 2008-01-27 14:53:08
Date Time Digitized = 2008-01-27 14:53:08
Components Configuration = YCbcr
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Max Aperture Value = F5.46
Metering Mode = CenterWeightedAverage
Light Source = Tungsten (incandescent light)
Flash = Flash fired, compulsory flash mode, return light detected
Focal Length = 120mm
Not applied any noise reduction or USF although shots are reduced in size. As you can see I was having a bit of a nightmare with using a flash for the first time. Left autoiso on, which really did want to ramp it rather than let the flash just sort it all out. Also had a gel on the flash to compensate for the incandescent light but it was pretty variable in the room and the Blofeld pic had to be dropped from 'vivid' mode to normal as the reds were too strong in his face. The two person shot has a yellow cast from the gel I think.
When using a flash, am I right in thinking I should pretty much be able to set mode to manual, set the shutter + aperture I want and it should short it out? If so, how do I gauge when what I'm asking requires an ISO boost to be viable? Just by chimping because the photo looks poor?
Anyway as you can see, I'm struggling with the flash. Any tips or good sites that start with the basics rather than suggesting one buys lots of stands and flashes (i.e. strobist!).
Suspect I should have had full scene metering on for a start as the flash was in TTL FL (fill mode).
Not great pics but my first experiment with using the SB-800 speedlight I bought on Sat was at a birthday party and there were a couple of famous people there. Due to a cock up, they do show some aspects of high iso performance too.

(Sir Peter Blake & John Hoyland)
Exposure Time = 1/60"
F Number = F5.6
Exposure Program = Aperture priority
ISO Speed Ratings = 2000
Exif Version = Version 2.2
Date Time Original = 2008-01-27 16:18:43
Date Time Digitized = 2008-01-27 16:18:43
Components Configuration = YCbcr
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Max Aperture Value = F4.76
Metering Mode = CenterWeightedAverage
Light Source = Tungsten (incandescent light)
Flash = Flash fired, compulsory flash mode, return light detected
Focal Length = 55mm

(Henry Blofeld)
Exposure Time = 1/60"
F Number = F5.3
Exposure Program = Aperture priority
ISO Speed Ratings = 1400
Exif Version = Version 2.2
Date Time Original = 2008-01-27 14:53:08
Date Time Digitized = 2008-01-27 14:53:08
Components Configuration = YCbcr
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Max Aperture Value = F5.46
Metering Mode = CenterWeightedAverage
Light Source = Tungsten (incandescent light)
Flash = Flash fired, compulsory flash mode, return light detected
Focal Length = 120mm
Not applied any noise reduction or USF although shots are reduced in size. As you can see I was having a bit of a nightmare with using a flash for the first time. Left autoiso on, which really did want to ramp it rather than let the flash just sort it all out. Also had a gel on the flash to compensate for the incandescent light but it was pretty variable in the room and the Blofeld pic had to be dropped from 'vivid' mode to normal as the reds were too strong in his face. The two person shot has a yellow cast from the gel I think.
When using a flash, am I right in thinking I should pretty much be able to set mode to manual, set the shutter + aperture I want and it should short it out? If so, how do I gauge when what I'm asking requires an ISO boost to be viable? Just by chimping because the photo looks poor?
Anyway as you can see, I'm struggling with the flash. Any tips or good sites that start with the basics rather than suggesting one buys lots of stands and flashes (i.e. strobist!).
Suspect I should have had full scene metering on for a start as the flash was in TTL FL (fill mode).
Edited by DanH on Wednesday 30th January 00:15
Looking at these I'd say you would benefit from a diffuser rather than a gel. Something like a sto-fen, they are available for a few quid I'm never without mine.
Edit to be a bit more useful - there is a colour cast in the first one but you should be able to tweak that in post, the lighting is however nice and even.
In the second one the lighting is very harsh, it's a bit underexposed, and there is a nasty shadow cast by the flash - it's this one that could do with a diffuser.
Settings wise I leave my flash set to TTL all the time, and use aperture priority. In circumstances like a party, I'm not proficient enough to be pissing around with manual mode, so for me doing so risks missing a good photo.
Edit to be a bit more useful - there is a colour cast in the first one but you should be able to tweak that in post, the lighting is however nice and even.
In the second one the lighting is very harsh, it's a bit underexposed, and there is a nasty shadow cast by the flash - it's this one that could do with a diffuser.
Settings wise I leave my flash set to TTL all the time, and use aperture priority. In circumstances like a party, I'm not proficient enough to be pissing around with manual mode, so for me doing so risks missing a good photo.
Edited by _dobbo_ on Wednesday 30th January 10:54
DanH said:
When using a flash, am I right in thinking I should pretty much be able to set mode to manual, set the shutter + aperture I want and it should short it out?
Yes. On the Canon it's ETTL, should be similar on your I would have thought.DanH said:
If so, how do I gauge when what I'm asking requires an ISO boost to be viable? Just by chimping because the photo looks poor?
When the shot is underexposed 
_dobbo_ said:
Looking at these I'd say you would benefit from a diffuser rather than a gel. Something like a sto-fen, they are available for a few quid I'm never without mine.
Edit to be a bit more useful - there is a colour cast in the first one but you should be able to tweak that in post, the lighting is however nice and even.
In the second one the lighting is very harsh, it's a bit underexposed, and there is a nasty shadow cast by the flash - it's this one that could do with a diffuser.
Settings wise I leave my flash set to TTL all the time, and use aperture priority. In circumstances like a party, I'm not proficient enough to be pissing around with manual mode, so for me doing so risks missing a good photo.
Thanks for the comments.Edit to be a bit more useful - there is a colour cast in the first one but you should be able to tweak that in post, the lighting is however nice and even.
In the second one the lighting is very harsh, it's a bit underexposed, and there is a nasty shadow cast by the flash - it's this one that could do with a diffuser.
Settings wise I leave my flash set to TTL all the time, and use aperture priority. In circumstances like a party, I'm not proficient enough to be pissing around with manual mode, so for me doing so risks missing a good photo.
Edited by _dobbo_ on Wednesday 30th January 10:54
I was using a diffuser which I suspect is part of the problem. Copying the technique of someones work I liked, I was firing the flash backwards over my shoulder to keep the lighting soft, unfortunately I didn't pay enough attention to what he said so had the diffuser on throwing light forwards when it should have all been indirect.
The other problem I had was that the batteries in my flash died part way through (probably because I had the diffuser on eating too much of the light). Think this may be partly why the latter shot was underexposed as it was whilst the flash was dying.
I'm finding flash photography in realtime is incredibly difficult. Really don't feel I can make people stand there for hours whilst I chimp, so it needs to be right first time. Does explain why so many amateur pics on the internet are still lifes!
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