Idiots guide to getting the right exposure?
Discussion
Can someone suggest a basic technique for setting the right exposure on a digtial SLR? (Specifically the 400D)
I found indoors at the NEC most of my shots came out underexposed first time round (I think it was exposing for the bright lights in shot, not the larger shaded areas). I then cheated with the exposure compensation and that seems to have more or less worked, but I was on some pretty extreme corrections (up to +2.0).
Admittedly I wasn't using a flash as I only have the (woefully innadequate) standard unit.
I found indoors at the NEC most of my shots came out underexposed first time round (I think it was exposing for the bright lights in shot, not the larger shaded areas). I then cheated with the exposure compensation and that seems to have more or less worked, but I was on some pretty extreme corrections (up to +2.0).
Admittedly I wasn't using a flash as I only have the (woefully innadequate) standard unit.
roy e6 said:
I'm no expert but what if you shoot in RAW, and then correct it once you get home.
Trouble with this method is that cranking up exposure on a RAW file often ends up with a lot of noise in the darker areas of the picture.Experimenting with the different metering modes on the camera is probably the best way in the case of the NEC lighting. Spot metering for the subject would be the first thing I'd try.
_dobbo_ said:
roy e6 said:
I'm no expert but what if you shoot in RAW, and then correct it once you get home.
Trouble with this method is that cranking up exposure on a RAW file often ends up with a lot of noise in the darker areas of the picture.Experimenting with the different metering modes on the camera is probably the best way in the case of the NEC lighting. Spot metering for the subject would be the first thing I'd try.
Taken at the NEC one of a few that were very dark
[quote=ukwill]
Apparently this is the mutts nuts:
http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Exposure-Photo...
Is a great read and can be acquired as a ebook.
Apparently this is the mutts nuts:
http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Exposure-Photo...
Is a great read and can be acquired as a ebook.
Tycho said:
Can't you use the histogram to check when you are taking it?
Yes, and then EV as required. Never judge exposure by the LCD monitor because it looks dim in sunlight and bright indoors. Sometimes I'll decide what part of the subject I want to expose for, then use spot metering. With the Nikon D200/300 the spot metering moves with the AF spot selected, which is ideal for what I do. But never, ever trust a DSLR to get it right on its own!
Check the camera manual for how to get it displayed, on my SLR I can get it shown as the shot is reviewed and in the playback mode. You can't adjust it after taking the shot in camera, you'd use it as a guide to taking other shots. Generally speaking you're aiming for a bell curve (probably skewed to the right slightly), covering as much width as possible, but without actually going off the edge (ie not 100% black or white). It will depend on the shot you're taking, but if there's space to the right you can afford to overexpose a bit etc etc.
There are some good websites with info on histograms if you look around.
There are some good websites with info on histograms if you look around.
I'm guessing tha the light levels in somewhere like this are pretty uniform?
If so, then simply go 'old school'. Take a meter reading, using spot, from the back of your hand under the average illumination conditions for the place you're in (a grey card is the proper thing to use, but human flesh - if you're white - is close enough). Then just set your camera to manual, decide whether exposure time or aperture (which affects depth of field) is more important to you and set accordingly.
That should be fine for 99% of the time.
If so, then simply go 'old school'. Take a meter reading, using spot, from the back of your hand under the average illumination conditions for the place you're in (a grey card is the proper thing to use, but human flesh - if you're white - is close enough). Then just set your camera to manual, decide whether exposure time or aperture (which affects depth of field) is more important to you and set accordingly.
That should be fine for 99% of the time.
Chris - This year I've decided to do a bit of structured learning rather than just dicking about with my camera.
I'm working through this book - http://www.amazon.com/Exposure-Photo-Workshop-Deve...
Its superb. I've gone right back to basics, fixed my camera in full manual mode, and its really got me to think about exposure.
I've made myself a couple of little 'cue cards' to remind about the basics of aperture size and shutter speed, and the relationship between the two.
I'm working through this book - http://www.amazon.com/Exposure-Photo-Workshop-Deve...
Its superb. I've gone right back to basics, fixed my camera in full manual mode, and its really got me to think about exposure.
I've made myself a couple of little 'cue cards' to remind about the basics of aperture size and shutter speed, and the relationship between the two.
Exposure compensation is the correct way to adjust the exposure for the scene if your sure the meetering method you've selected is the right one but you want something different to what it thinks.
No meetering mode is 'right', and they can all be fooled, its down to you to understand what the camera is meetering and if it needs help.
Always check the histogram at least for a couple of shots, so long as its not crammed into one end or the other it'll be usable.
Theres always the 'expose to the right' method too, the RHS of the histogram contains more (digital) information in the files, so if your scene only encompases half the range of the camera your better off with that half being exposed to the right. Yes it may appear over exposed, but you can always reduce that later, so long as you havnt blown any information(highlites) you wanted. This is very usefull with sunrise/sunset shots etc.
No meetering mode is 'right', and they can all be fooled, its down to you to understand what the camera is meetering and if it needs help.
Always check the histogram at least for a couple of shots, so long as its not crammed into one end or the other it'll be usable.
Theres always the 'expose to the right' method too, the RHS of the histogram contains more (digital) information in the files, so if your scene only encompases half the range of the camera your better off with that half being exposed to the right. Yes it may appear over exposed, but you can always reduce that later, so long as you havnt blown any information(highlites) you wanted. This is very usefull with sunrise/sunset shots etc.
Ok, so the routine is basically estimate your initial settings and take a test shot, then check the histogram and adjust the exposure compensation as required.
Must say, looking at my shots from the NEC some look ok (on a proper monitor) despite being skewed towards the 'wrong' side of the histogram - is that normal if you have a dark area for most of the shot (ie taking a photo of a subject against a black background)?
Also, my histograms are all quite jagged! No nice smooth bell curves here... is that something I can improve on (and if so, how) or is that just due to what I'm shooting?
Thanks for the help chaps, much appreciated.
Must say, looking at my shots from the NEC some look ok (on a proper monitor) despite being skewed towards the 'wrong' side of the histogram - is that normal if you have a dark area for most of the shot (ie taking a photo of a subject against a black background)?
Also, my histograms are all quite jagged! No nice smooth bell curves here... is that something I can improve on (and if so, how) or is that just due to what I'm shooting?
Thanks for the help chaps, much appreciated.
Not sure you can make your histograms a ncie bell curve, thats realy down to the scene.
As for the take a shot and check method, with experience (of the camera, meetering mode and in general) you can look at a scene and know the meetering will over/under expose it.
Typicaly meetering is trying to hit 18% grey (about the palm of your hand) over the area its meetering (scene, center weighted, spot etc). This will make a dark bar scene too light and a ski field too dark.
Which meetering mode depends on the subject and scene.
As for the take a shot and check method, with experience (of the camera, meetering mode and in general) you can look at a scene and know the meetering will over/under expose it.
Typicaly meetering is trying to hit 18% grey (about the palm of your hand) over the area its meetering (scene, center weighted, spot etc). This will make a dark bar scene too light and a ski field too dark.
Which meetering mode depends on the subject and scene.
Chris71 said:
Must say, looking at my shots from the NEC some look ok (on a proper monitor) despite being skewed towards the 'wrong' side of the histogram - is that normal if you have a dark area for most of the shot (ie taking a photo of a subject against a black background)?
Also, my histograms are all quite jagged! No nice smooth bell curves here... is that something I can improve on (and if so, how) or is that just due to what I'm shooting?
Don't worry about the shape of the histogram - that simply depends on how much dark and light stuff there is in the shot. Black is left and white is right. What you want to try to do is get the 'lump' (for want of a better word!) in the middle, and certainly not cut off the right hand side, which is the highlight. One exception to this is specular highlights like sparkling reflections on water or candle flames, so let them be clipped - if you expose for those the rest of the image will be uselessly dark! Also, my histograms are all quite jagged! No nice smooth bell curves here... is that something I can improve on (and if so, how) or is that just due to what I'm shooting?
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