Strobist for the complete dummy
Strobist for the complete dummy
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Discussion

andy-xr

Original Poster:

13,204 posts

234 months

Friday 13th March 2009
quotequote all
I have 2 fashion based location shoots planned next month in a forest and could do with some advice on setting up the lighting.

I'm going to be outdoors and want to have a bit more control than using ambient lighting, so I'm looking at either 1 or 2 Nikon SB600s. Firing off camera is no problem, but it's how to mount them I'm struggling with

Would I be best off sticking each one on a tripod, turning them down to suit, or getting a pair of umbrellas? If so, do I shoot through, or deflect? Do I need a lightstand instead of tripods if I'm going for umbrellas?

Confused...and thats after I've watched the 101

beano500

20,854 posts

305 months

Friday 13th March 2009
quotequote all
When I was at Focus the other week I went to one of the Nikon workshops. Talked through and showed what can be done with one or two SBs off camera. I can't believe how easy Uz made it seem. Just a simple set up of shooting with the speedlight on a stand and through a diffusing white umbrella gave a very flattering and even light on the model - the umbrella literally a few cm away from her face and up close with a 50mm on a D3.

Have a look at this site for examples of the finished product: www.sfdigital.co.uk

As an SB800 user I was interested enough and I have just bought a couple of light stands and a couple of brollies off of Fleabay. I like the simple idea of shooting through a brolly and using the wireless functions of the Nikon Speedlights, but I think you will need at least one SB800 or SB900 as a master. From the Master gun you can control everything else. If I were buying today I would definitely get an SB900 - all the controls are on the back instead of being deeply hidden in the menus, a feature that the pros love too. But otherwise my kit is just coming out of its packaging this evening and I can't wait to find some mug to play with - either indoor or out.

beano500

20,854 posts

305 months

Friday 13th March 2009
quotequote all
And a quick snap of the set up...




Search "Fleabay" for

33" Inch Pro Umbrella Translucent Studio Diffuser White
Flash Shoe hot Swivel Holder Bracket Mount Light Stand
Quality photographic light stand for studio lighting

I bought two set ups of the above for about £50 (Not including the SB, of course!).

Simpo Two

92,888 posts

295 months

Friday 13th March 2009
quotequote all
andy-xr said:
I'm going to be outdoors and want to have a bit more control than using ambient lighting, so I'm looking at either 1 or 2 Nikon SB600s. Firing off camera is no problem, but it's how to mount them I'm struggling with

Would I be best off sticking each one on a tripod, turning them down to suit, or getting a pair of umbrellas? If so, do I shoot through, or deflect? Do I need a lightstand instead of tripods if I'm going for umbrellas?
I like to approach lighting from first principles. First thing (after direction) is the relative size of the illuminated area, because this determines the softness/shadows of the result. Hence if you use umbrellas or softboxes rather than naked flashguns, you'll get a softer look, and the closer to the subject they get, the softer still because the subtended angle is greater.

Personally I use softboxes rather than umbrellas to avoid 'starfish' reflections, and use monobloc flash heads because it's (IMHO) a lot easier running on manual than farting about with overly-clever Speedlights. Of course if you're outside then there's unlikely to be mains power and you probably don't want to buy a stonking great powerpack, so flashguns have the advantage for portability.

Back to the question - I don't use flashguns off-camera but I have seen a mount that holds a flashgun plus umbrella. Or to quote a client of mine, 'If it still doesn't work, you haven't used enough gaffer tape'!

GFWilliams

4,949 posts

237 months

Friday 13th March 2009
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Remember that if you are using an umbrella on a tripod outside that if there is some wind there is a high chance it will topple...

George

andy-xr

Original Poster:

13,204 posts

234 months

Friday 13th March 2009
quotequote all
Ah, I have a bag of unused lenses that can sort that problem out smile

Still slightly confused on the umbrellas. I'd like uniform soft light and minimal shadow so in Beano's photo above would I have the subject to the left? I've seen silver and gold umbrellas that I presume would throw the light back, which would have the subject to the right?

VxDuncan

2,850 posts

264 months

Saturday 14th March 2009
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Basically the harshness of the shadows is proportional to the size of the light source. Think of sunlight - bright clear day the light source is a small point in the sky which gives harsh, sharp shadows. Overcast day the light source is massive (most of the sky) hence, really soft diffuse light. Hence, the idea of the umbrella is it gives a softer, diffuse light by shining the flash through it making the source bigger.

Simpo Two

92,888 posts

295 months

Saturday 14th March 2009
quotequote all
andy-xr said:
Ah, I have a bag of unused lenses that can sort that problem out smile

Still slightly confused on the umbrellas. I'd like uniform soft light and minimal shadow so in Beano's photo above would I have the subject to the left? I've seen silver and gold umbrellas that I presume would throw the light back, which would have the subject to the right?
You can use white umbrellas both ways - reflected and shoot-through (but depending on the subject, the former can give a highlight ('catchlight') with a flashgun in the middle). Metallised umbrellas only work one way, reflected.

It's quite an interesting pastime to examine the covers of glossy magazines, study the shadows and catchlights and then try to reverse-engineer the lighting.

Andy M

3,755 posts

289 months

Saturday 14th March 2009
quotequote all
beano500 said:
And a quick snap of the set up...




Search "Fleabay" for

33" Inch Pro Umbrella Translucent Studio Diffuser White
Flash Shoe hot Swivel Holder Bracket Mount Light Stand
Quality photographic light stand for studio lighting

I bought two set ups of the above for about £50 (Not including the SB, of course!).


Unless you're going for a specific effect, you need to back your brolly further from the flash to get the most even/softest light source.

Alike:



andy-xr

Original Poster:

13,204 posts

234 months

Saturday 14th March 2009
quotequote all
Simpo Two said:
andy-xr said:
Ah, I have a bag of unused lenses that can sort that problem out smile

Still slightly confused on the umbrellas. I'd like uniform soft light and minimal shadow so in Beano's photo above would I have the subject to the left? I've seen silver and gold umbrellas that I presume would throw the light back, which would have the subject to the right?
You can use white umbrellas both ways - reflected and shoot-through (but depending on the subject, the former can give a highlight ('catchlight') with a flashgun in the middle). Metallised umbrellas only work one way, reflected.

It's quite an interesting pastime to examine the covers of glossy magazines, study the shadows and catchlights and then try to reverse-engineer the lighting.
Brilliant, thank you!


LongQ

13,864 posts

263 months

Saturday 14th March 2009
quotequote all
The flash/umbrella head on beano's picture is intended for fast direct fitting onto a lightstand However you can get various adapters that will screw onto a tripod mount and allow the dedicated flash/umbrella fitting to attach to that. The potential benefit of a tripod outdoors (greater adjustment in the legs, easier addition of stabilising weight may be worth the difference.

I have just got some initial kit to use with my 'collection' of Metz flashes with the intention (left over from a plan last year) to mount the flashes on tripods and fit the umbrella holder to the Metz camera mounting bracket where a couple of holes are provided. And then trigger with Skyports.

Should be fun.

Simpo Two

92,888 posts

295 months

Saturday 14th March 2009
quotequote all
LongQ said:
And then trigger with Skyports.
Minor tip with Skyports - check the batteries first. The Tx battery uses current even if not used, and the Rx is rechargeable so will lose charge with time as well.

LongQ

13,864 posts

263 months

Saturday 14th March 2009
quotequote all
Simpo Two said:
LongQ said:
And then trigger with Skyports.
Minor tip with Skyports - check the batteries first. The Tx battery uses current even if not used, and the Rx is rechargeable so will lose charge with time as well.
Good reminder - thanks Simpo.

I have hired a set before. Bought a lit at Focus and 2 additional Rx units a few days ago. Must remember to get a spare battery for the Tx. I not it comes with a spare holder for a battery but presumably just in case of loss.

The original Rx is charged, the others still boxed at the moment.
Presumably it would make sense to remove the Tx battery when not in use?

beano500

20,854 posts

305 months

Saturday 14th March 2009
quotequote all
Andy M said:
Unless you're going for a specific effect, you need to back your brolly further from the flash to get the most even/softest light source.
Absolutely. And probably set it for a wide angle lens, I guess. I just took this as a quick snap of what arrived on my doorstep last week - only just got it out of the packaging and put it together for effect!

Simpo Two

92,888 posts

295 months

Saturday 14th March 2009
quotequote all
LongQ said:
Presumably it would make sense to remove the Tx battery when not in use?
I just slide the battery hatch open a bit to break the contacts, but keep it all in one piece. I also have an eBay cheapo backup which works perfectly in the studio as the Rx takes its power from the light's mains cable. (I guess the only bullet-proof answer is synch cables!)