Second flash

[L4MBOLUV3R]

With the darker days now settling in I have switched to trying to use more flash in my pictures but I've instantly found its very much redundant with one! So I was wondering what flash I should go about getting to add to my collection.

I currently have the SB600 which works fine for me even out doors found that problem tends to be when its on the left hand side of the lens, think it blocks the IR sensor.

Either way I am thinking about another one so I can still be wireless but is this the best route to go? Or, should I look at another? If I get a second SB600 can it relay the signal to the other one? Also Is it possible to use the SB600 wireless as a AF illuminator? I am thinking along the £200 and under price range TBH

[andy-xr]

You need an SB800, SB900 or SU controller to do that via Nikon's stuff, an SB600 wont master/slave another one. The popup flash on your D90 will though, and any flash that supports CLS is fine.

Your other option is to go 3rd party and manually set the power, you'd probably need a seperate trigger system, something like ebay specials, Cactus, Skyports or Pocket Wizards. If you dont have regular line of site to the remote flashguns they'll struggle with CLS and/or any other IR trigger, so you'd be better looking at a radio trigger system. There's no TTL info so you'd be metering and setting everything up manually

Edited by andy-xr on Thursday 24th September 06:51

[AndWhyNot]

I've got a 600 and a couple of 800s. When I'm shooting single flash I almost always use the 600 as it's so simple and less susceptible to settings getting changed by a knock in the bag. I find it pretty versatile tbh. Try spinning the flash head round when the flash is on the other side, that way the signal can still reach. You can also try reflecting the signal, either by diffusing the on-board flash (which will also weaken the signal so you'll lose a bit of range) or bouncing it into the flash receiver.

If you go for a 600 you'll be in budget and your two flashes will be identically powered; go for an 800 and you'll spend more than you want and have to tinker a bit unless you want slightly lopsided lighting (that's a finicky point tbh) but you will get one of the best 'pocket' flashguns and it can be used to trigger your 600.

For AF illumination, unless it's full-dark, don't see why you're having a problem with AF. What focal range and length are you using? Search for 'night focusing techniques' there's loads of useful hints and tips (like using a torch). Some camera/ flash combinations using CLS do provide a modelling light feature off the back of the DoF preview button (won't help with AF but useful for checking the signal's reaching)

[Simpo Two]

AndWhyNot said:

For AF illumination, unless it's full-dark, don't see why you're having a problem with AF.

I think he means the red jobbies (IR illuminators) on the SB600, not the AF system itself. I also use an SC-29 which has another similar one. In very low light it throws a splendid red 'barcode' across the subject's faces and works very well. Whether it feeds the distance back to the AF system, or whether the AF system simply uses the grid to get a lock, I'm not sure.

[L4MBOLUV3R]

Simpo Two said:

AndWhyNot said:

For AF illumination, unless it's full-dark, don't see why you're having a problem with AF.

I think he means the red jobbies (IR illuminators) on the SB600, not the AF system itself. I also use an SC-29 which has another similar one. In very low light it throws a splendid red 'barcode' across the subject's faces and works very well. Whether it feeds the distance back to the AF system, or whether the AF system simply uses the grid to get a lock, I'm not sure.

Yeah the SB600 does that method to so I am going to try that one tomorrow night and take a torch to. Last time I was in all darkness it didnt focus properly and some shots that could have been stunning turned out soft.

[L4MBOLUV3R]

AndWhyNot said:

I've got a 600 and a couple of 800s. When I'm shooting single flash I almost always use the 600 as it's so simple and less susceptible to settings getting changed by a knock in the bag. I find it pretty versatile tbh. Try spinning the flash head round when the flash is on the other side, that way the signal can still reach. You can also try reflecting the signal, either by diffusing the on-board flash (which will also weaken the signal so you'll lose a bit of range) or bouncing it into the flash receiver.

If you go for a 600 you'll be in budget and your two flashes will be identically powered; go for an 800 and you'll spend more than you want and have to tinker a bit unless you want slightly lopsided lighting (that's a finicky point tbh) but you will get one of the best 'pocket' flashguns and it can be used to trigger your 600.

For AF illumination, unless it's full-dark, don't see why you're having a problem with AF. What focal range and length are you using? Search for 'night focusing techniques' there's loads of useful hints and tips (like using a torch). Some camera/ flash combinations using CLS do provide a modelling light feature off the back of the DoF preview button (won't help with AF but useful for checking the signal's reaching)

I think I will go 600 when I get paid next seems easier and cheaper. Then later on get a 800 or 900 as a boost and trigger?

Ive tried spinning the head around and find if your pushing say 35* then you ten to loose signal on the left but it links fine on the right.

[Simpo Two]

L4MBOLUV3R said:

I think I will go 600 when I get paid next seems easier and cheaper. Then later on get a 800 or 900 as a boost and trigger?

If I were you I'd get the SB800 to add to your existing SB600- it's got far more capability for multiple flash setups.