Photography for complete idiots....
Discussion
Hi All,
Thanks to some guys here, I recently purchased a Canon EOS 500D, which on first hundred or so snaps is excellent.
However, short of holding it the right way round, sticking it on 'auto' and pushing the button whilst pointing vaguely in the right direction, I confess to almost complete ignorance on photography.
I've tried to pick up a few bits here and there, but find myself quickly very much out of my depth....
Where can I learn my aperture from my F settings?
Don't like 'dummies' guides as they're very American. Is there a good, easy to follow 'bible' that starts from the beginning for the relatively astute, but seriously under-educated photographers?
Cheers!
Thanks to some guys here, I recently purchased a Canon EOS 500D, which on first hundred or so snaps is excellent.
However, short of holding it the right way round, sticking it on 'auto' and pushing the button whilst pointing vaguely in the right direction, I confess to almost complete ignorance on photography.
I've tried to pick up a few bits here and there, but find myself quickly very much out of my depth....
Where can I learn my aperture from my F settings?
Don't like 'dummies' guides as they're very American. Is there a good, easy to follow 'bible' that starts from the beginning for the relatively astute, but seriously under-educated photographers?
Cheers!
The book in the link below was recommended to me when I was in a similar position and I found it to be very good - I hardly ever take pics in Auto mode anymore.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Understanding-Exposure-Pho...
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Understanding-Exposure-Pho...
If you don't mind coming to London for a day I would highly recommend courses organised by www.anglesgb.co.uk
I don't know if they still run them but a few years ago I did a one day course run by Jessops - it was an introduction to all the F stops and apertures and everythign else that comnfuses people.
It was very useful.
Only about 50 quid or something.
Might be worth seeing if they still run them?
It was very useful.
Only about 50 quid or something.
Might be worth seeing if they still run them?
Cheers guys, book looks perfect, but I'll have to see if I can buy it locally. I don't shop with Amazon (or Tesco!).
London a no no unfortunately, I can read a book on a flight or something, but I don't have a whole day free until some time in late June!
I'll try Jessops, I would like to support them as I think it's an excellent chain that would be sad to lose.
Thanks for the suggestions so far!
London a no no unfortunately, I can read a book on a flight or something, but I don't have a whole day free until some time in late June!
I'll try Jessops, I would like to support them as I think it's an excellent chain that would be sad to lose.
Thanks for the suggestions so far!
This is the jessops thingy....
http://www.jessopstrainingacademy.com/event_search...
Seems to have gone up since I did it - but then again I did do it on a film SLR!
Birmingham, Manchester, London or Leeds.
http://www.jessopstrainingacademy.com/
o/t: - Got my second plate thanks Nic.
http://www.jessopstrainingacademy.com/event_search...
Seems to have gone up since I did it - but then again I did do it on a film SLR!
Birmingham, Manchester, London or Leeds.
http://www.jessopstrainingacademy.com/
o/t: - Got my second plate thanks Nic.
http://www.experience-seminars.co.uk/index.php?opt...
These guys are good, had been tinkering for a while and helped with 350D, noticed they do a DvD which may suit your needs better?
These guys are good, had been tinkering for a while and helped with 350D, noticed they do a DvD which may suit your needs better?
maser_spyder said:
Hi All,
Thanks to some guys here, I recently purchased a Canon EOS 500D, which on first hundred or so snaps is excellent.
I also bought a 500D in the Xmas sales. Having not a clue how it works, and very little spare time, I have booked Mrs telford_mike on a training course with Experience Seminars Thanks to some guys here, I recently purchased a Canon EOS 500D, which on first hundred or so snaps is excellent.
Simpo Two said:
maser_spyder said:
Where can I learn my aperture from my F settings?
That's one thing you don't have to learn - aperture and f-numbers refer to the same thing, namely the size of the hole the light goes through 
I'll sit in the corner with the 'D' hat on.
Suffice to say, book suggested above has been purchased, DVD will be purchased later, and if I can find a suitable Saturday, I'll get on to a Jessops course in Turbanham.
Would be good to find something a bit more local, but I'm sure the book and DVD will keep me occupied for the meantime whilst I have a look.
Thanks all!
maser_spyder said:
Simpo Two said:
maser_spyder said:
Where can I learn my aperture from my F settings?
That's one thing you don't have to learn - aperture and f-numbers refer to the same thing, namely the size of the hole the light goes through I'll sit in the corner with the 'D' hat on.
Suffice to say, book suggested above has been purchased, DVD will be purchased later, and if I can find a suitable Saturday, I'll get on to a Jessops course in Turbanham.
Would be good to find something a bit more local, but I'm sure the book and DVD will keep me occupied for the meantime whilst I have a look.
Thanks all!
Plus you hit problems just post images on here with shooting data and I'm sure someone will be around to offer an opinion of what went wrong
Cheers.
The basics are simple.
ISO = sensativity of the sensor (old days 'speed' of the film)
Aperture (Av) = the physicaly hole in the lens light is let through
Shutter speed (Tv) = how long in time the shot is.
They all add up to make the exposure..
ISO + Av + Tv = exposure.
If you change one of them without changing the other then the picture gets lighter or darker.
So Tv from 1/100th to 1/200th is half the shutter time, so half the amount of light = darker picure.
Halving (or doubling) the amount of light is called a 'Stop'. ( though your camera is likely set up to shift things n 1/3rds of a stop)
Av from f2.8 to f4 is one stop less light (the physical aperture gets smaller as the number goes up).
From f4 to f5.6 is another stop, another halving of light.
So from f2.8 to f5.6 is two stops, or 1/4 the amount of light (1/2 of 1/2)
If you change 2 in opposite directions the same amount the picture stays the same.
So f2.8 to f4.0 halvs the light BUT uf you change the shutter from 1/200th to 1/100th you double it again and even it out.
Thats the basic mechanics - now to the reasons why you'll change one rather than the other.
ISO - typicaly you have this as low as possible. Higher ISO means more noise and less dynamic range. ISO 100 will mean longer shutter speeds than ISO 200 or ISO 400 etc. Usualy you'll up this when you dont have enough shutter speed to make the shot.
TV (shutter) - typicaly so long as this is enough you can ignore this. Enough is said to be 1/focal length. so for 50mm 1/50th is enough, for 200mm 1/200th is enough (personaly I think this should be more like 1/2 * focal length now).
Exceptions to the fast enough rule are things like sport where you want to freeze the action (so faster, 1/500th), birsd in flight, or when you want to show movement so you need a shorter shutter speed (motorsports panning, prop aircraft).
Av (aperture) - This controls one of the major tools of the photographer, the depth of field. Smaller number means a larger hole ( its a mathermatical expresion f2.0 on a 50mm lens means 50mm/2.0, the result is 25mm aperture, so f4.0 is 12mm aperture diameter etc).
Smaller aperture mumber(f2.8say) lets in more light & gives a shallower dept of field. Good for subject isolation, potraits etc
Larger aperture number(f9) lets in less light but gives more depth of field. Good for landscapes etc.
ISO = sensativity of the sensor (old days 'speed' of the film)
Aperture (Av) = the physicaly hole in the lens light is let through
Shutter speed (Tv) = how long in time the shot is.
They all add up to make the exposure..
ISO + Av + Tv = exposure.
If you change one of them without changing the other then the picture gets lighter or darker.
So Tv from 1/100th to 1/200th is half the shutter time, so half the amount of light = darker picure.
Halving (or doubling) the amount of light is called a 'Stop'. ( though your camera is likely set up to shift things n 1/3rds of a stop)
Av from f2.8 to f4 is one stop less light (the physical aperture gets smaller as the number goes up).
From f4 to f5.6 is another stop, another halving of light.
So from f2.8 to f5.6 is two stops, or 1/4 the amount of light (1/2 of 1/2)
If you change 2 in opposite directions the same amount the picture stays the same.
So f2.8 to f4.0 halvs the light BUT uf you change the shutter from 1/200th to 1/100th you double it again and even it out.
Thats the basic mechanics - now to the reasons why you'll change one rather than the other.
ISO - typicaly you have this as low as possible. Higher ISO means more noise and less dynamic range. ISO 100 will mean longer shutter speeds than ISO 200 or ISO 400 etc. Usualy you'll up this when you dont have enough shutter speed to make the shot.
TV (shutter) - typicaly so long as this is enough you can ignore this. Enough is said to be 1/focal length. so for 50mm 1/50th is enough, for 200mm 1/200th is enough (personaly I think this should be more like 1/2 * focal length now).
Exceptions to the fast enough rule are things like sport where you want to freeze the action (so faster, 1/500th), birsd in flight, or when you want to show movement so you need a shorter shutter speed (motorsports panning, prop aircraft).
Av (aperture) - This controls one of the major tools of the photographer, the depth of field. Smaller number means a larger hole ( its a mathermatical expresion f2.0 on a 50mm lens means 50mm/2.0, the result is 25mm aperture, so f4.0 is 12mm aperture diameter etc).
Smaller aperture mumber(f2.8say) lets in more light & gives a shallower dept of field. Good for subject isolation, potraits etc
Larger aperture number(f9) lets in less light but gives more depth of field. Good for landscapes etc.
I would just add - try to keep the ISO low and fixed unless the other two parameters won't work - ie you can't get the aperture any wider or the shutter speed any lower without problems. (I typically use ISO 320 as a good general purpose setting). ISO is more of an electronic 'get out of jail' card rather than a genuine parameter - it involves electronic amplification, not light. And a newbie trying to juggle three parameters at once can get in a mess, leaving it on ISO 6400 etc by mistake.
Good one Rob.
I found Scott Kelby's book to be very usefull.
For me, it underlined some stuff I thought I knew, and just pointed in the right direction generally.
Its not a massivley techy book, as the author says, its just likes you are both on a shoot and a situation arises that you need advice on.
I found Scott Kelby's book to be very usefull.
For me, it underlined some stuff I thought I knew, and just pointed in the right direction generally.
Its not a massivley techy book, as the author says, its just likes you are both on a shoot and a situation arises that you need advice on.
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