Flash infill - where am I going wrong?
Discussion
Doing a lot of shooting in very strong sunlight, but as soon as I try and add a bit of flash infill (using built in flash) the camera (D60) won't allow me to set the shutter speed any quicker than 1/200s, which is completely over exposing the shot. (in manual mode)
Anyone explain what I'm doing wrong?
Anyone explain what I'm doing wrong?
Flash can only sync so fast (1/200s), so that's the max shutter speed you can use and still get a falsh burst lighting the whole scene (without the shutter being in the way). There are ways round it on high end nikon kit, a high speed sync that flashes many times, rather than just once.
In you case the normal solution would be to dial in a much smaller apperture / lower ISO to bring the exposure back to normal using a slower shutter speed. Of course the downside of this is you need a BIG burst of flash - so a big gun and lots of batteries. In really bright sunlight you'll need ND filters to reduce the light into the lens. THere are cameras that will sync much faster (inc Nikon D70 IIRC), but they are rare.
In you case the normal solution would be to dial in a much smaller apperture / lower ISO to bring the exposure back to normal using a slower shutter speed. Of course the downside of this is you need a BIG burst of flash - so a big gun and lots of batteries. In really bright sunlight you'll need ND filters to reduce the light into the lens. THere are cameras that will sync much faster (inc Nikon D70 IIRC), but they are rare.
The normal synch speed is indeed 1/200th though you might get it up to 1/320th.
You can imagine that when I come out of a church adapted to gloom (Aperture priority, ISO800, f2.8) into the blazing sunshine I have a bit of adjusting to do! Quickest fix is to set ISO as low as possible and use Program mode, and let the camera sort it out.
The SB800 has a high speed sych mode (it shows as 'FP' for some reason best known to Nikon) but this reduces power.
So it can be done, you just need to think about the settings and balance the two light sources.
Here's one from the last wedding - she was lining up to photograph me while I was doing the groups. I was quicker
jon- said:
I think 430exII onwards will allow you to sync higher.
Not much use on a D60 (Nikon)!VxDuncan said:
In you case the normal solution would be to dial in a much smaller apperture / lower ISO to bring the exposure back to normal using a slower shutter speed. Of course the downside of this is you need a BIG burst of flash - so a big gun and lots of batteries.
Yep. People find it odd that you need a stonking flashgun in bright sun, but you do.VxDuncan said:
THere are cameras that will sync much faster (inc Nikon D70 IIRC), but they are rare.
The D70 does indeed synch up an incredible 1/2000th sec (I've tested it with studio lights). It has an electromagnetic shutter which is the reason apparently.You can imagine that when I come out of a church adapted to gloom (Aperture priority, ISO800, f2.8) into the blazing sunshine I have a bit of adjusting to do! Quickest fix is to set ISO as low as possible and use Program mode, and let the camera sort it out.
The SB800 has a high speed sych mode (it shows as 'FP' for some reason best known to Nikon) but this reduces power.
So it can be done, you just need to think about the settings and balance the two light sources.
Here's one from the last wedding - she was lining up to photograph me while I was doing the groups. I was quicker
Davi said:
Thanks for all the great responses, I've learned a lot today
I did try upping the aperture as much as possible but could reduce exposure enough, so I guess the answer above re adding nd filters starts to make sense! (or just accept rubbish shadows
)
As others have mentioned, you start mixing ND filters and high fstops and you run out of flash very quickly!I did try upping the aperture as much as possible but could reduce exposure enough, so I guess the answer above re adding nd filters starts to make sense! (or just accept rubbish shadows
)
If you add an ND filter it will reduce your fill-flash as much as it does the ambient light. Hence no point.
According to the EXIF my photo was taken using 1/200th at f7.1, ISO 250, -0.5EV, and in some of the nastiest sun I have yet encountered. Mind you it was shot RAW which allows me to maximise shadow detail, highlight recovery and blend multiple processes if required. It would look much more contrasty if a single JPG.
According to the EXIF my photo was taken using 1/200th at f7.1, ISO 250, -0.5EV, and in some of the nastiest sun I have yet encountered. Mind you it was shot RAW which allows me to maximise shadow detail, highlight recovery and blend multiple processes if required. It would look much more contrasty if a single JPG.
Please do obtain and read the instructions, it will save you a lot of time and confusion later.
My camera was only on -0.5EV because I was shooting a bracketed sequence of group photos when the opportunity arose. I just spun round and took the shot; if I'd stopped to change any settings the moment would have gone. Another example of why RAW is better than JPG.
My camera was only on -0.5EV because I was shooting a bracketed sequence of group photos when the opportunity arose. I just spun round and took the shot; if I'd stopped to change any settings the moment would have gone. Another example of why RAW is better than JPG.
Edited by Simpo Two on Thursday 22 July 23:01
Maximum Flash synch speed is a function of the body not the flash.
Any faster the 2nd curtain gets in the way and will block out part of the flash exposure.
You can use High speed synch which bsicaly fires the flash for longer but this eats flash power and recharge rates and will cut down the maximum flash power
Any faster the 2nd curtain gets in the way and will block out part of the flash exposure.
You can use High speed synch which bsicaly fires the flash for longer but this eats flash power and recharge rates and will cut down the maximum flash power
RobDickinson said:
Maximum Flash synch speed is a function of the body not the flash.
Any faster the 2nd curtain gets in the way and will block out part of the flash exposure.
You can use High speed synch which bsicaly fires the flash for longer but this eats flash power and recharge rates and will cut down the maximum flash power
Rob, I think you may have just contradicted yourself. With no flash attached the maximum flash synch speed is a function of the body. With the right flash attached it's a function of the flash e.g. the 550EX will synchronise at any shutter speed.Any faster the 2nd curtain gets in the way and will block out part of the flash exposure.
You can use High speed synch which bsicaly fires the flash for longer but this eats flash power and recharge rates and will cut down the maximum flash power
No it doesnt. It cant , max normal synch speed is a function of the body/shutter regardless of flash.
HSS is a function of the flash but this effectivly pulses the flash over the whole exposure so isnt realy synching with the shutter at all.
In anything over the max synch speed the curtains dont expose the whole frame but move an opening upwards with a normal flash this only exposes a section of frame. Typicaly you will catch the 2nd curtain in the lower section of the frame.
HSS is a function of the flash but this effectivly pulses the flash over the whole exposure so isnt realy synching with the shutter at all.
In anything over the max synch speed the curtains dont expose the whole frame but move an opening upwards with a normal flash this only exposes a section of frame. Typicaly you will catch the 2nd curtain in the lower section of the frame.
Davi said:
One thing I've not worked out yet is how to +/- ev when shooting manual or if I even can (knew I should have bought the instructions!)
Good point though on the nd filters. already shooting raw for exactly those reasons!
Good point though on the nd filters. already shooting raw for exactly those reasons!
- /- ev of for the ambient shot or the flash?
The flash, on the other hand, should have its own +/- ev adjustment somewhere in camera and/or, potentially, on the flash too. How that all fits with eTTL/iTTL or whatever other camera to flash chat is going on is another matter entirely.
If you want to fill flash in bright sunlight you will need a lot of power as has already been mentioned. I have some Metz hammerhead guns that I just set to manual (full power) and that seems to do the trick for lighting the shadows. Not too expensive on eBay but you need to be a little careful about compatibility since these things last for decades and the very oldest ones have a high voltage on the PC connector which needs special consideration.
This sort of subject (but not eTTL/iTTL whatever) has been covered quite a few times on strobist.com in recent months with various approaches described. It's a pretty good source of eureka moments for lighting matters.
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