Discussion
Today my son's TVR S2, TVR653X, passed its MOT first time after a full body off rebuild. He's rather chuffed!!
However, he reports the gearbox is a bit 'clunky' in its feel. He is using SX75W90 Hypoid Gearbox Oil. Is this the correct stuff?
Moving on from the oil in the gearbox, the clutch slave cylinder was replaced with a non original part, and he had to modify the pushrod to fit. However, it IS activating the clutch release arm. He would prefer to swap it to the original slave cylinder and push rod, but his push rod is missing. Can anyone help?
Thirdly, there is an odd sound coming from the engine when he switches it off, sounds a bit like a dump valve releasing pressure. Could it be an air leak?
Cheers,
Tony.
P.S a full pictoral timeline of the work carried out will appear shortly!!
However, he reports the gearbox is a bit 'clunky' in its feel. He is using SX75W90 Hypoid Gearbox Oil. Is this the correct stuff?
Moving on from the oil in the gearbox, the clutch slave cylinder was replaced with a non original part, and he had to modify the pushrod to fit. However, it IS activating the clutch release arm. He would prefer to swap it to the original slave cylinder and push rod, but his push rod is missing. Can anyone help?
Thirdly, there is an odd sound coming from the engine when he switches it off, sounds a bit like a dump valve releasing pressure. Could it be an air leak?
Cheers,
Tony.
P.S a full pictoral timeline of the work carried out will appear shortly!!
Well done.
I don't think you should be using "hypoid" oil in the gearbox. The EP additives in hypoid type oils can attack the yellow metal typically used for the synchromesh rings. You need a synthetic manual transmission oil, such as Redline MTL. I think the spec is API GL4. Avoid anything GL5, EP or hypoid.
I don't think you should be using "hypoid" oil in the gearbox. The EP additives in hypoid type oils can attack the yellow metal typically used for the synchromesh rings. You need a synthetic manual transmission oil, such as Redline MTL. I think the spec is API GL4. Avoid anything GL5, EP or hypoid.
hi kingfisher
as for the oil in your gearbox if its the same as in my s3
i would go for comma 75w 90 gl-4 semi synthetic
i changed the oil in mine 6 mths ago from what would have been put in from new
this oil spec has cured a slightly notchy gear changed in 2nd and is alot smoother
ford recommend this spec if you have this problem and gearbox rebuilders agree
hope this helps
as for the oil in your gearbox if its the same as in my s3
i would go for comma 75w 90 gl-4 semi synthetic
i changed the oil in mine 6 mths ago from what would have been put in from new
this oil spec has cured a slightly notchy gear changed in 2nd and is alot smoother
ford recommend this spec if you have this problem and gearbox rebuilders agree
hope this helps
TonupS2 said:
My push rod is off at the moment I can measure it up if it would help so that you can get one made? It looks quite simple for someone who has a lathe. My contact is one holiday for a couple of weeks, but if you can wait I should be able to get one made.
Hello, that would be excellent! It does change gear, and there's no rush, but it isn't holding the clutch release arm when the car is in gear, so the arm can rattle, causing a rather annoying resonance at speed.TonupS2 said:
My push rod is off at the moment I can measure it up if it would help so that you can get one made? It looks quite simple for someone who has a lathe. My contact is one holiday for a couple of weeks, but if you can wait I should be able to get one made.
Hi TonupS2, any news on the pushrod? I think you could be onto a winner, nowhere seems to make them!Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff