New owner.... first dumb question
Discussion
I think where 90 is is 90 degrees, top of white line is about 100.
Make sure your system is holding pressure, look for tell tale crystalline deposits around hose unions this could indicate a leak. I have a pressure tester that I bought from the U.S. that can pump the system up cold to avoid the risk of scalding, I haven't tested a system yet that hasn't had at least a slight weep of some kind. The system pressure is a crucial element of the system, and leaks will mean the pressure drops and the temp goes up.
Regularly having to top up water may give you a clue.
If your cooling system is sound you will not have any problems.
On my V8S it generally goes up to 100 in traffic but then starts to come down again. It is always the most watched guage!
Make sure your system is holding pressure, look for tell tale crystalline deposits around hose unions this could indicate a leak. I have a pressure tester that I bought from the U.S. that can pump the system up cold to avoid the risk of scalding, I haven't tested a system yet that hasn't had at least a slight weep of some kind. The system pressure is a crucial element of the system, and leaks will mean the pressure drops and the temp goes up.
Regularly having to top up water may give you a clue.
If your cooling system is sound you will not have any problems.
On my V8S it generally goes up to 100 in traffic but then starts to come down again. It is always the most watched guage!
As above. Mine sits just below the white line, with about 2mm between the line and the arm. It rarely moves from there once it's up to temperature. Not even last weekend, when it was pushing 30 outside and I was stuck in traffic for the Dartford tunnel. It was only my face which went into the red as sunburn set in. Still, the tunnel was worth it! I can still hear the noise now!
Ozzie54321 said:
Now that's much better, you both agree! Hurrah....! Another dumb question, does anyone use metal ramps to get their S on, or are they too low slung for the slope, is it all jacks and axel stands?
Yes - with care - probablty best to get some wood to rest against the bottom 'rung' of the ramps to 'lower' the angle of approach.On the temp level question - my S has always run just under the white '90 degree' temp line (apart from SCH2010 when I went over & looked like a steam engine!) - advice is to fit an 'override' switch for the fan then if in any doubt (like standing traffic) flick the fan - worked great on the way back from SCH this weekend
HTH
Cheers
Jaye
Jaye R said:
Yes - with care - probablty best to get some wood to rest against the bottom 'rung' of the ramps to 'lower' the angle of approach.
On the temp level question - my S has always run just under the white '90 degree' temp line (apart from SCH2010 when I went over & looked like a steam engine!) - advice is to fit an 'override' switch for the fan then if in any doubt (like standing traffic) flick the fan - worked great on the way back from SCH this weekend
HTH
Cheers
Jaye
Now that's a top tip, thanks. I'll get that sorted, I guess it can't be too complicated to do ..... or once again am I wrong?On the temp level question - my S has always run just under the white '90 degree' temp line (apart from SCH2010 when I went over & looked like a steam engine!) - advice is to fit an 'override' switch for the fan then if in any doubt (like standing traffic) flick the fan - worked great on the way back from SCH this weekend
HTH
Cheers
Jaye
Barkychoc said:
I think where 90 is is 90 degrees, top of white line is about 100.
Doesn't it make more sense that on a gauge with one line and one number (nearly) next to it, the two are intended to be related?Anyway, given the likely inaccuracy of both gauge and sender, it's probably not the right question in the first place... As I understand it, from cold, given a functional thermostat, the temperature on the gauge will rise until the thermostat opens, then drop back slightly. This defines the base running temperature range. A sustained higher temperature reading suggests that the radiator is struggling with cooling (such as in a traffic jam on a motorway after a long period of high speed running), and this will then be controlled by forced cooling when the fan kicks in at a slightly higher temperature than the thermostat controls. If the fan kicks in close to normal running temperature it will just be fighting the thermostat.
For what it's worth, my V8S cooling system is generally well-behaved. The thermostat opens about halfway between horizontal and the 'white line'. Normal running temperature (on the gauge) is in the range horizontal to just below the white line. The fan kicks in if the gauge climbes to just beyond the white line. I've never seen it go up to the start of the red. What it actually means in terms of absolute temperature I don't know, but at least for me it gives an idea of 'what is normal', and when to 'start worrying'!
Have fun,
Graham
Ragtop said:
Doesn't it make more sense that on a gauge with one line and one number (nearly) next to it, the two are intended to be related?
Anyway, given the likely inaccuracy of both gauge and sender, it's probably not the right question in the first place... As I understand it, from cold, given a functional thermostat, the temperature on the gauge will rise until the thermostat opens, then drop back slightly. This defines the base running temperature range. A sustained higher temperature reading suggests that the radiator is struggling with cooling (such as in a traffic jam on a motorway after a long period of high speed running), and this will then be controlled by forced cooling when the fan kicks in at a slightly higher temperature than the thermostat controls. If the fan kicks in close to normal running temperature it will just be fighting the thermostat.
For what it's worth, my V8S cooling system is generally well-behaved. The thermostat opens about halfway between horizontal and the 'white line'. Normal running temperature (on the gauge) is in the range horizontal to just below the white line. The fan kicks in if the gauge climbes to just beyond the white line. I've never seen it go up to the start of the red. What it actually means in terms of absolute temperature I don't know, but at least for me it gives an idea of 'what is normal', and when to 'start worrying'!
Have fun,
Graham
Thanks Graham, that comment really puts some perspective on the issue, so, to paraphrase "don't worry about it, until the gauge shows something iregular or abnormal!" The gauge is not 100% accurate and is only designed to give an indication of what is happening within the cooling system!?Anyway, given the likely inaccuracy of both gauge and sender, it's probably not the right question in the first place... As I understand it, from cold, given a functional thermostat, the temperature on the gauge will rise until the thermostat opens, then drop back slightly. This defines the base running temperature range. A sustained higher temperature reading suggests that the radiator is struggling with cooling (such as in a traffic jam on a motorway after a long period of high speed running), and this will then be controlled by forced cooling when the fan kicks in at a slightly higher temperature than the thermostat controls. If the fan kicks in close to normal running temperature it will just be fighting the thermostat.
For what it's worth, my V8S cooling system is generally well-behaved. The thermostat opens about halfway between horizontal and the 'white line'. Normal running temperature (on the gauge) is in the range horizontal to just below the white line. The fan kicks in if the gauge climbes to just beyond the white line. I've never seen it go up to the start of the red. What it actually means in terms of absolute temperature I don't know, but at least for me it gives an idea of 'what is normal', and when to 'start worrying'!
Have fun,
Graham
Sorry for the dumb question, but I guess it demonstrates that the average EuroBox driver (as I have been for the last 15 years) never thinks about what he's driving or how it works, but when it's a car with a "soul", it's almost like a father / son relationship! You care and you'll do anything to prevent any harm coming to your baby.
This TVR ownership is so great ...... and I haven't even collected the car yet .... roll on Monday.... I can't wait!
Sorry Guys, be prepared for more dumb questions.... I am slowly developing TVR-OCD.
Never two the same...
My S3 at rest will gradually heat up to just over the 90 mark, the fan cuts in and the temp drops to just below the 90 mark, but at normal road speeds (Honestly Officer) she always runs much cooler, at around 70 degrees at about 70 mph on a warm day and cooler still in winter months. I have to put duct tape of varying amounts on the grills to get the temp about right (I aim for anything between 80 and 90 (by the gauge)...
I have replaced the thremostat recently (no change). Mine never loses any coolant (which is a 50/50 mix so that might contribute to overcooling) and its as clear as it was when I put it in.
like you say, its an indication and I watch the gauge for any extremes
I also have a manual fan-switch but to be honest I dont recall using it other than testing it.
K
My S3 at rest will gradually heat up to just over the 90 mark, the fan cuts in and the temp drops to just below the 90 mark, but at normal road speeds (Honestly Officer) she always runs much cooler, at around 70 degrees at about 70 mph on a warm day and cooler still in winter months. I have to put duct tape of varying amounts on the grills to get the temp about right (I aim for anything between 80 and 90 (by the gauge)...
I have replaced the thremostat recently (no change). Mine never loses any coolant (which is a 50/50 mix so that might contribute to overcooling) and its as clear as it was when I put it in.
like you say, its an indication and I watch the gauge for any extremes
I also have a manual fan-switch but to be honest I dont recall using it other than testing it.
K
ketvrin said:
Never two the same...
My S3 at rest will gradually heat up to just over the 90 mark, the fan cuts in and the temp drops to just below the 90 mark, but at normal road speeds (Honestly Officer) she always runs much cooler, at around 70 degrees at about 70 mph on a warm day and cooler still in winter months. I have to put duct tape of varying amounts on the grills to get the temp about right (I aim for anything between 80 and 90 (by the gauge)...
I have replaced the thremostat recently (no change). Mine never loses any coolant (which is a 50/50 mix so that might contribute to overcooling) and its as clear as it was when I put it in.
like you say, its an indication and I watch the gauge for any extremes
I also have a manual fan-switch but to be honest I dont recall using it other than testing it.
K
What's the nominal stat opening temperature range of the one you fitted?My S3 at rest will gradually heat up to just over the 90 mark, the fan cuts in and the temp drops to just below the 90 mark, but at normal road speeds (Honestly Officer) she always runs much cooler, at around 70 degrees at about 70 mph on a warm day and cooler still in winter months. I have to put duct tape of varying amounts on the grills to get the temp about right (I aim for anything between 80 and 90 (by the gauge)...
I have replaced the thremostat recently (no change). Mine never loses any coolant (which is a 50/50 mix so that might contribute to overcooling) and its as clear as it was when I put it in.
like you say, its an indication and I watch the gauge for any extremes
I also have a manual fan-switch but to be honest I dont recall using it other than testing it.
K
Do you have that wierd degas line that others mentioned having on the V6 models, that bypasses the stat but connects into the TOP hose instead of the bottom hose?
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff