Ignition module replacement
Discussion
As the very last thing left in my ignition system that isn't new I have bought a new ignition module to fix my ignition problem.
As I understand it I have to take the distributor off to get to the ignition module but I'm worried about screwing up the timing.
I have rotated the rotor arm to the position the Haynes manual states which means the timing mark should be on 12º (or 8º according to Steve Heath
). However mine is at about 30º!
Here is the rotor arm position:
and here is the timing mark (screwdriver is on it). Sorry for the rubbish picture.
Is this the right position?
Also how do I mark the distributor position!? I'm very worried about screwing this up!!
Thanks,
Tom
As I understand it I have to take the distributor off to get to the ignition module but I'm worried about screwing up the timing.
I have rotated the rotor arm to the position the Haynes manual states which means the timing mark should be on 12º (or 8º according to Steve Heath
). However mine is at about 30º!Here is the rotor arm position:
and here is the timing mark (screwdriver is on it). Sorry for the rubbish picture.
Is this the right position?
Also how do I mark the distributor position!? I'm very worried about screwing this up!!
Thanks,
Tom
How I would do it....
pull the rotor arm off then turn the engine a little by hand (dizzy still tight, don't loosen clamp yet) and you'll see part of it moves and part doesn't so you need to mark these two relative to each other. Scratch with a knife or use small brush and some paint, I wouldn't use tape or pen they can fall or rub off. Once marked don't turn the engine!
Put rotor arm back on, remove clamp bolt and pull dizzy out. You'll notice the rotor arm turns as it comes out, note roughly where it ends up as it comes free then when replacing start with it in same position and as it twists in should end up with your marks roughly aligned, twist to get them bang on and job done.
It really doesn't matter where the crank timing marks are when you do this so long as engine does not move while dizzy is out (disconnect battery).
Position in your photo looks ok to me, No.1 plug lead should be where the tip of rotor arm is.
HTH and makes some sense, Mike.
pull the rotor arm off then turn the engine a little by hand (dizzy still tight, don't loosen clamp yet) and you'll see part of it moves and part doesn't so you need to mark these two relative to each other. Scratch with a knife or use small brush and some paint, I wouldn't use tape or pen they can fall or rub off. Once marked don't turn the engine!
Put rotor arm back on, remove clamp bolt and pull dizzy out. You'll notice the rotor arm turns as it comes out, note roughly where it ends up as it comes free then when replacing start with it in same position and as it twists in should end up with your marks roughly aligned, twist to get them bang on and job done.
It really doesn't matter where the crank timing marks are when you do this so long as engine does not move while dizzy is out (disconnect battery).
Position in your photo looks ok to me, No.1 plug lead should be where the tip of rotor arm is.
HTH and makes some sense, Mike.
Ceejay, I did look at doing it without taking the dissy out but decided it looked like too much like a pain in the proverbial.
I took the dissy out, replaced the module and put it back in exactly the same place without too much problem. For future reference the ignition module bolts require a 3/16" deep socket or nut spinner. That was a PITA to find!
Once I got everything back together I started the car up and although it ran it sounded very rough and was having trouble holding idle to the point that it conked out after about 2 minutes. I wired up the strobe and the spark was fine, the timing was at about 20-25º though. It never ran that rough before on that timing but it sounded like it was too far advanced.
I moved the timing back to 12º and now it runs fine. I have a feeling the old ignition module was knackered and was retarding the ignition by about 10º. New ignition module meant no retardation and the advance was far too much.
That's my theory anyway as I can't figure out why else it would run so badly. It wasn't like I put a couple of degrees advance more than it had before or anything, I had to move the dissy a good way to get it running well.
I'm going to give the car a drive tomorrow and see how it feels.
I took the dissy out, replaced the module and put it back in exactly the same place without too much problem. For future reference the ignition module bolts require a 3/16" deep socket or nut spinner. That was a PITA to find!
Once I got everything back together I started the car up and although it ran it sounded very rough and was having trouble holding idle to the point that it conked out after about 2 minutes. I wired up the strobe and the spark was fine, the timing was at about 20-25º though. It never ran that rough before on that timing but it sounded like it was too far advanced.
I moved the timing back to 12º and now it runs fine. I have a feeling the old ignition module was knackered and was retarding the ignition by about 10º. New ignition module meant no retardation and the advance was far too much.
That's my theory anyway as I can't figure out why else it would run so badly. It wasn't like I put a couple of degrees advance more than it had before or anything, I had to move the dissy a good way to get it running well.
I'm going to give the car a drive tomorrow and see how it feels.
tozerman said:
I may be wrong here but I thought the ECU provided the advance/retard and the ignition module just provided the spark, as I say I may be wrong though
cheers.....Tony..
Yup, I thought that too but if you twist the distributor it definitely changes the timing!! I've set it to 12 degrees but I'm still having issues.cheers.....Tony..
It's still not running right. I'm going to adjust the tappets this weekend to eliminate that noise then there are 2 more noises I need to diagnose.
Yes if you twist the dizzy you do alter the static timing but obviously then you are only altering the dizzy, the ignition module remains static. I doubt that tappets could couse the problems you suggested, they will make the car noisier but they would have to a mile out to make the engine run significantly worse.
Cheers.....Tony..
Cheers.....Tony..
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