Idle Control Valve question

[SteveOS3]

Recently I've had a problem when idling where the rev's drop to 500, sound like it will stall, then pick up, then drop etc There's no drop in power or performance but it does soemtimes misfire when bobbling along at low revs.

It only happens when the engine is up to temperature. As the search facility is down I'd appreciate any advice on where to start, temperature sensor, idle control valve etc.

Should be gaskets on the idle control value, see below? I can't remember seeing any in the three years I've had it.

[The Beaver Queen]

Sounds very similar to mine Steve.

When you pull up to stop, do the revs drop very low and occassionaly stall? The problem with mine was an air leak after the AFM's. Might be worth having a little poke around as it's a simple fix.

It would run fine, 'pop' a lot on the overrun and the revs dropped alarmingly low when I put the clutch in.

[tozerman]

YES you should have a gasket on the ISCV, I made one from some cereal packet

Cheers.....Tony..

[SteveOS3]

Thanks for the advice. I guess no gasket(s) means potential air leak. Out with the Weetabix packet tonight. Do both faces need a gasket or just the one that bolts to the intake?

Steve

Edited by SteveOS3 on Thursday 18th August 14:08

[phillpot]

Should be an O ring in that recess where the actuator/solenoid thingy bolts on. Not sure but probably same size as an injector O ring ?

[SteveOS3]

The 'o' ring is on the male part of the solenoid but it's a bit flat so I'll pick a new one up tomorrow. Gaskets made out of cereal box.

[jimed]

A little vaseline on the gasket (a very thin smear on both sides) helps with the seal and also enables it to come off easily when you next need to clean it (and you may need to do it every now and then).
Jim

[SteveOS3]

Thanks Jim. Found an 'O' ring in my little box of 'things that may come in handy one day'.

I've disconnected the battery so that the ecu will reset by the time I get home from work. Then refit and away I go.

Steve

[SteveOS3]

Got the same problem after cleaning the ICV, adding gasket and new 'o' ring.

Had a full engine electrics check yesterday and all components were within range and working. It's been ok since; maybe the 'disturbance' test of things being unplugged and wiggled about has cured the problem.

Fingers crossed.

[PYNEY]

hi steve

i've had this problem a couple of times
i did what you have done and i think disconnecting the battery normaly sorts out the ecu and away you go

[v8s4me]

I had similar problems with my V8S. I know the stepper motor arrangement is different but I made mine worse by replacing the gasket with one which was too thick. It had the effect of holding the plunger off the seat by a fraction. I don’t know if the V6 design is that critical but it might be worth taking care anyway. Mine was cured by ditching the gasket and replacing it with sealant. Problem solved instantly!

[SteveOS3]

Hmmmm, I plan an ECU reset now that it's been on the crypton tune. If that doesn't cure it I'll ditch the gasket(it may too thick as mine is made out of a Weetabix box and the original was paper?) and try some sealant.

Thanks for the tip.

Steve

[Jaye R]

Steve

I have a spare 'proper' gasket for the ISVC if you want it - just PM me your address & I'll post it to you.

Cheers
Jaye

[jimed]

I suspect that the gasket thickness isn't too critical as the holes only let air in and out; I think I used a cornflakes packet or similar and it was fine.
Jim

[tozerman]

jimed said:

I suspect that the gasket thickness isn't too critical as the holes only let air in and out; I think I used a cornflakes packet or similar and it was fine.
Jim

I agree with Jim, the thickness doesn't matter, I got a new one from ford a year or so ago and it was much thicker than paper.

Cheers.....Tony..

[junglieD]

Continuing in this thread, I have a potential snag with the Idle Control Valve on my S2. Without the Idle Control Valve connected, the engine starts nicely and sits idling at a nice and stable 900rpm. When the Idle Control Valve is connected via the plastic looming/wiring - the car idles a lot higher though - in the vicinity of 2000rpm which is uncomfortably high.

Seeing as the engine starts fine with the Idle Control Valve disconnected, would you advise leaving it as is? There must be a disadvantage to not having it connected and as such I'm keen to investigate where the fault could be - any ideas?

Regards

David

[Griffinr]

junglieD said:

Continuing in this thread, I have a potential snag with the Idle Control Valve on my S2. Without the Idle Control Valve connected, the engine starts nicely and sits idling at a nice and stable 900rpm. When the Idle Control Valve is connected via the plastic looming/wiring - the car idles a lot higher though - in the vicinity of 2000rpm which is uncomfortably high.

Seeing as the engine starts fine with the Idle Control Valve disconnected, would you advise leaving it as is? There must be a disadvantage to not having it connected and as such I'm keen to investigate where the fault could be - any ideas?

Regards

David

Sounds like you either have an air leak or the throttle butterfly stop is incorrectly adjusted. The butterflies should be completely shut at tickover as the idle air is then controlled by the idle control valve. Had the same problem when I bought my car.

Rob.