S3 Bottom Ball Joint
S3 Bottom Ball Joint
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Discussion

blues3

Original Poster:

248 posts

194 months

Thursday 10th November 2011
quotequote all
Always worried about buying parts off t'internet as I like to have the old bit side by side to the new bit for a compare. However took a punt with this listing on ebay...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120609898907?ssPageName=...

where it claimed to fit the following...


Fitted both tonight with only one slight problem in that two of the three supplied clamp bolts weren't long enough.

Also fitted two new top balljoints as well. Have to say they didn't make much differnce to the wheel movement in terms of stiffness but I guess its best to change these things whilst its in bits.

Comparitive pictures of the old and new lower joints...



Gerald-TVR

4,896 posts

226 months

Thursday 10th November 2011
quotequote all
Check the range of movement on the lower ball joints I have heard reports that some ball joints are limited in movement and fractures have occured. i believe if the range is OK then there shouldnt be any problems

blues3

Original Poster:

248 posts

194 months

Monday 14th November 2011
quotequote all
Thanks Norman, I didn't compare the movements but after fitting the movement on the verticle link is VERY stiff (almost immovable in fact!) Perhaps if I stick the wheel back on and try freeing it off a little.

carsy

3,019 posts

194 months

Monday 14th November 2011
quotequote all
I am assuming you are referring to steering movement. I had this with my Griff. If you put a jack under the lower wishbone and just raise it a little the movement becomes nice and free again. I put this down to the bottom ball joint being at the end of its available movement when the suspension is fully extended and therefore not turning very easily. When back on wheels it will be fine.

GreenV8S

31,017 posts

313 months

Monday 14th November 2011
quotequote all
carsy said:
I am assuming you are referring to steering movement. I had this with my Griff. If you put a jack under the lower wishbone and just raise it a little the movement becomes nice and free again. I put this down to the bottom ball joint being at the end of its available movement when the suspension is fully extended and therefore not turning very easily. When back on wheels it will be fine.
In other words, your balljoint is acting as your droop stop and is now being overstressed each time the weight comes off the wheels, probably resulting in premature failure and possibly resulting in it snapping. That would usually not be regarded as a good thing. smile

carsy

3,019 posts

194 months

Tuesday 15th November 2011
quotequote all
I agree entirely. I got my new ball joints from TVR Power and when discovering this upon fitting them had a lengthy conversation with them. They informed me that the ball joints were the only ones they had ever supplied and had never come across any problems with units failing. I would put money on it that most Griff`s and Chims are like this. Having said that, like you say it is not ideal.

I have heard that someone now is producing lower ball joints with a bigger movement, possibly Racing Green ! because of this problem. Something i am going to look into.

GreenV8S

31,017 posts

313 months

Tuesday 15th November 2011
quotequote all
If you have aftermarket dampers it's possible that they have slightly longer droop travel than the originals which could lead to this problem.

blues3

Original Poster:

248 posts

194 months

Wednesday 16th November 2011
quotequote all
Well, put the car back on all fours and jacked one side and sure enough a smooth, sliding transition from one lock to the other.
Thanks chaps.