New Flexible Brake Pipes Not Fitting
Discussion
First thanks for all the help with the vague steering – new bulkhead bearing, loose steering shaft UJ connections and new track rod ends – has now been cured.
I’ve read previous post on his subject but with no search at the moment I can’t find them. I've purchased a set of Goodridge flexible brake pipes through a TVR parts supplier [who sadly I can no longer contact for advice] but they came marked for TVR S 2.9l 1990, spoke to Goodridge today and they confirmed that their a correct match for my car which as far as I can tell was manufactured in April 1990.
Tried fitting a rear pipe over the weekend to find that the new pipe’s threaded end is too big and the copper pipe’s brass nut connecting will not screw on, not even start to catch the first threads. Gooridge have told me their thread is 10x1mm.
I seem to recall that parts of the system are metric and parts imperial – now I also need to replace a couple of the copper pipes as I’m converting the master cylinder and servo to a Ford configuration – so I'm thinking of having a mixture of Met and Imp connectors on the new pipes to solve the problem [though this seem very complicated].
Any help on the best and quickest way forward very welcome as MOT due on the 9 March.
Cheers
Nigel
I’ve read previous post on his subject but with no search at the moment I can’t find them. I've purchased a set of Goodridge flexible brake pipes through a TVR parts supplier [who sadly I can no longer contact for advice] but they came marked for TVR S 2.9l 1990, spoke to Goodridge today and they confirmed that their a correct match for my car which as far as I can tell was manufactured in April 1990.
Tried fitting a rear pipe over the weekend to find that the new pipe’s threaded end is too big and the copper pipe’s brass nut connecting will not screw on, not even start to catch the first threads. Gooridge have told me their thread is 10x1mm.
I seem to recall that parts of the system are metric and parts imperial – now I also need to replace a couple of the copper pipes as I’m converting the master cylinder and servo to a Ford configuration – so I'm thinking of having a mixture of Met and Imp connectors on the new pipes to solve the problem [though this seem very complicated].
Any help on the best and quickest way forward very welcome as MOT due on the 9 March.
Cheers
Nigel
Here is a link to a thread a few months ago discussing the same thing. Hopefully you will find your answer there. If not just keep asking, its a pain when the search is down.
http://pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t...
Gordon
Edited as I couldn't seem to be able to add a link properly this morning.
http://pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t...
Gordon
Edited as I couldn't seem to be able to add a link properly this morning.
Edited by The Big G on Tuesday 28th February 10:45
I'm not sure if this helps but "useful links" shows this chart
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll191/gerald-tv...
Cheers
Tim
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll191/gerald-tv...
Cheers
Tim
Thanks for the info new metric pipes arrived in this mornings post, I now just need a local contortionist to fit them.
On a more serious note the diff appears to have oil leak from the prop shaft flange, though this is oil free but there’s an arc of congealed oil over the chassis and bodywork in this location – is this the sign of a failed seal?
On a more serious note the diff appears to have oil leak from the prop shaft flange, though this is oil free but there’s an arc of congealed oil over the chassis and bodywork in this location – is this the sign of a failed seal?
It could be coming down the splined shaft the pinion fits onto then comes out between the diff and propshaft flanges? Drop the prop bolts out and see if it's oily in there?
It may sound crude but rather than remove the pinion (which may disturb the oil seal) and try to seal the splines just dis-connect the prop, clean everything and seal around the big nut that holds the diff pinion on with an "instant gasket" type product.
ETA, you mentioned "congealed oil", could it be old oil, someone has replaced seal but not cleaned up?
It may sound crude but rather than remove the pinion (which may disturb the oil seal) and try to seal the splines just dis-connect the prop, clean everything and seal around the big nut that holds the diff pinion on with an "instant gasket" type product.
ETA, you mentioned "congealed oil", could it be old oil, someone has replaced seal but not cleaned up?
Edited by phillpot on Thursday 1st March 06:32
Jonesy07 said:
Thanks for the info new metric pipes arrived in this mornings post, I now just need a local contortionist to fit them.
On a more serious note the diff appears to have oil leak from the prop shaft flange, though this is oil free but there’s an arc of congealed oil over the chassis and bodywork in this location – is this the sign of a failed seal?
more likely grease from the UJ. have you greased it up recently ? if not, why not On a more serious note the diff appears to have oil leak from the prop shaft flange, though this is oil free but there’s an arc of congealed oil over the chassis and bodywork in this location – is this the sign of a failed seal?
and dont forget the one on the front UJ which is often neglectedK

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