Ammeter Problems??
Ammeter Problems??
Author
Discussion

tiggyfudge

Original Poster:

42 posts

261 months

Saturday 31st July 2004
quotequote all
Hi all. I`ve just begun life with a TVR s2 series and am loving every minute of it!! I have one query though.... After starting up, my alternator dosn`t kick in and start showing 14-15 volts on the ammeter untill I have either driven for about 5 miles or I floor the it (Not wise after just starting up eh?!) ! This has me really puzzled. Any suggestions to the problem?

Pies

13,116 posts

279 months

Saturday 31st July 2004
quotequote all
It wont kick in until you have hit 2k revs

You dont have to keep it above 2k but it needs to see 2k

lwt

308 posts

307 months

Saturday 31st July 2004
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Just blip the throttle so the light goes out. BTW, if the water temperature increases when you switch on the lights and/or heater fan, then the earth points need cleaning. Always a good thing to do with a S!

Pies

13,116 posts

279 months

Saturday 31st July 2004
quotequote all
My water temp increases with switching on lights etc it even rises when the fan cuts in

welcome by the way



>> Edited by Pies on Saturday 31st July 19:16

mycroft

1,545 posts

270 months

Saturday 31st July 2004
quotequote all
TADTS
Welcome

tvrgit

8,483 posts

275 months

Saturday 31st July 2004
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my instruments are all over the place depending what's switched on or not. If the fan cuts in while the lights are on, the rev counter goes up by about 2000 revs (the engine doesn't speed up, the counter says it does)

I try not to worry about it. Successfully.

GreenV8S

30,999 posts

307 months

Saturday 31st July 2004
quotequote all
The voltage funnies can also be caused by a drop on the main switched ignition feed, often caused by poor contact at the main connector to the ignition switch. Worth feel the temperature at this connector with everything turned on just to make sure you don't have a potential melt-down on your hands. On mine I had several small voltage drops across the ignition switch itself, this connector, the immobilizer, the fuse and so on adding up to about two volts with everything on. That is far too much for comfort. My solution was to redirect this feed through a 40A relay straight off the main power terminal so everything sees full voltage - not elegant but it works!