Hello and help needed
Discussion
Hello to you all. My nane is oliver i live in Norfolk and i am a recovering series 1 owner and this will probably be the first of many questions.
After having had a bad motorX accident last year i thought that it would be best to hang up my boots and get a new toy but this time it is to have four wheels or stabilisers. After drawing up a short list of cars and doing the researce the tvr s won hands down. So sold all the old toys and proceded to search. Ended up buying a series 1 in racing green(condition i would say was7 out of 10) with only 22000 on the clock ( which i think is a bit duebise) although the old mot`s back to the early 90`s support this. The only minor/major?? fault was that the fan was wired to a toggle switch on the dase and the heater didn`t work( thought it might be the switch). Although since i have owned the car and it lives in a garage and hasn`t seen the rain i noticed that the foot wells were slightly damp,thought that this might be the heater matrix as the heater dosn`t work?? couln`t see were any other water could come from.
After 500 happy miles looking like the cheshire cat i have now got my first of brobably many faults. I had noticed a slight water staining coming from the top of the swirl tank i put this down to having given the old girl a good thrashing or poor pressure cap. Now there is a leak from the water pump noticeable from the large pool of water on the garage floor. could you please advise me as to were to get a replacement pump from and should i change the thermostat at the same time. Apart from being a vertically challenged contortionist is there an easy/correct way to change the pump.
Thanks Olly
After having had a bad motorX accident last year i thought that it would be best to hang up my boots and get a new toy but this time it is to have four wheels or stabilisers. After drawing up a short list of cars and doing the researce the tvr s won hands down. So sold all the old toys and proceded to search. Ended up buying a series 1 in racing green(condition i would say was7 out of 10) with only 22000 on the clock ( which i think is a bit duebise) although the old mot`s back to the early 90`s support this. The only minor/major?? fault was that the fan was wired to a toggle switch on the dase and the heater didn`t work( thought it might be the switch). Although since i have owned the car and it lives in a garage and hasn`t seen the rain i noticed that the foot wells were slightly damp,thought that this might be the heater matrix as the heater dosn`t work?? couln`t see were any other water could come from.
After 500 happy miles looking like the cheshire cat i have now got my first of brobably many faults. I had noticed a slight water staining coming from the top of the swirl tank i put this down to having given the old girl a good thrashing or poor pressure cap. Now there is a leak from the water pump noticeable from the large pool of water on the garage floor. could you please advise me as to were to get a replacement pump from and should i change the thermostat at the same time. Apart from being a vertically challenged contortionist is there an easy/correct way to change the pump.
Thanks Olly
Engine is from a 2.9i (12 valve) Ford Granada, any decent motor factor should be able to supply a water pump. Ford Main Dealers don't tend to hold stock for vehicles this old (and probably more expensive).
Access a lot easier if you jack front of car up then the bonnet will open till nearly vertical.
ETA yep, 2.8 (Capri, Sierra XR4, earlier Granada's?) , that's what happens when you read things too quickly before the boss catches me on PH again
Access a lot easier if you jack front of car up then the bonnet will open till nearly vertical.
ETA yep, 2.8 (Capri, Sierra XR4, earlier Granada's?) , that's what happens when you read things too quickly before the boss catches me on PH again
Edited by phillpot on Friday 1st June 15:27
Hi Olly, I have changed one on a 2.9 and it quite straight forward. Before you even start, give the bolts holding the pump on a good spray of "plusgas" releasing fluid for a few nights. The main problem is shearing these bolts, especially the bottom ones as they are usually quite corroded. I didn't change the thermostat, but did the fan belt and all the bolts for new ones. I got a genuine Motorcraft pump from a local ford dealer at a good price, might be worth a call, you never know.
As Phillpot has already said, with the car jacked up, access is fine.
As Phillpot has already said, with the car jacked up, access is fine.
Edited by markbigears on Friday 1st June 13:48
i have done a 2.9 water pump a few weeks ago and my advice is be v.gentle with undoing the bolts and you will be fine. Assume all of them want to shear off and treat with caution, plus gas etc. I did mine with a warm engine which i believe helped a little.
You could try eurocarparts for a pump - they supplied one for 2.9. Give me a shout if you get it running and fancy a run out one day. I live near attleborough and there are a few more of us in Norfolk; Hingham & Norwich for example.
the cap on the swirl pot is a v. important thing. The lower seal holds pressure in and the upper seal enables drawing back of fluid from header tank upon cooling / depressurisation. If the top seal is poor it will gradually starve the engine of water and cause problems.
I also did a heater matrix last year, not so bad as you might think, once you have found the parts! A lazy answer for summer use is to bypass the heater matrix......fix it when you dont want to use it! Could just be a stuck heater valve??
Steve
You could try eurocarparts for a pump - they supplied one for 2.9. Give me a shout if you get it running and fancy a run out one day. I live near attleborough and there are a few more of us in Norfolk; Hingham & Norwich for example.
the cap on the swirl pot is a v. important thing. The lower seal holds pressure in and the upper seal enables drawing back of fluid from header tank upon cooling / depressurisation. If the top seal is poor it will gradually starve the engine of water and cause problems.
I also did a heater matrix last year, not so bad as you might think, once you have found the parts! A lazy answer for summer use is to bypass the heater matrix......fix it when you dont want to use it! Could just be a stuck heater valve??
Steve
markbigears said:
Before you even start, give the bolts holding the pump on a good spray of "plusgas" releasing fluid for a few nights. The main problem is shearing these bolts, especially the bottom ones as they are usually quite corroded.
I find a sharp tap on the bolt head with a hammer helps to break the grip of the rust before you start spannering. You need to be careful though.Edited by markbigears on Friday 1st June 13:48
Rob.
[quote=Top Gear TVR]Heres one of the TVR S crowd that recently went to Spa in Belgium doing the very pump-swap job in a Calais car park!quote]
..you mean Dunkirk car park...I have one of those photos as well
Oliver, welcome to TVR Ownership. I was the one who chatted to you at the Kings Head in Bawburgh the other day...If I remember that you are in the Wymondham area, then me and Steve are virtually your neighbours.
- Any help/support you need, or fancy a run out, then we should arrange....Especially with a 4-day week end coming up.
Ref leaks: There are also sources of swirl pots if that has problems, now in st.st., alhtough there is an issue we are currnetly working on with that (Steve will know what I mean).
..you mean Dunkirk car park...I have one of those photos as well
Oliver, welcome to TVR Ownership. I was the one who chatted to you at the Kings Head in Bawburgh the other day...If I remember that you are in the Wymondham area, then me and Steve are virtually your neighbours.
- Any help/support you need, or fancy a run out, then we should arrange....Especially with a 4-day week end coming up.
Ref leaks: There are also sources of swirl pots if that has problems, now in st.st., alhtough there is an issue we are currnetly working on with that (Steve will know what I mean).
Thanks for the advice guys.
Yes Andy it was me. Nice to now there are s series owners as neighbours.Don`t think it will be going anywhere this weekend
still in bits. If you or steve are passing then please pop in for a drink and a chat.
ETA
Might be an idea not to publicise your address on a public website.
Yes Andy it was me. Nice to now there are s series owners as neighbours.Don`t think it will be going anywhere this weekend
still in bits. If you or steve are passing then please pop in for a drink and a chat.
ETA
Might be an idea not to publicise your address on a public website.
Edited by Big Al. on Friday 1st June 19:05
AutoAndy said:
olly137 said:
my first of brobably many faults.
Dont be like that. We just got 20 S's accross Europe (At high speed), and round two of the meanest circuits there are (at very high speed), and got them back agina without any problems....ish.Super / solid motors.
My s3c made 3000 miles with no issues
So yes the ford v6 is solid, just need some TLC form time to time as all old things do.
When working on the car why not drive up onto a couple of lumps of wood so bonnet can open further but put something on the ground to protect the nose.
When doing jobs under the bonnet I used to drive mine up ramps, open the bonnet and rest it against the garage door, loads of space for access
When doing jobs under the bonnet I used to drive mine up ramps, open the bonnet and rest it against the garage door, loads of space for access
AutoAndy]op Gear TVR]Heres one of the TVR S crowd that recently went to Spa in Belgium doing the very pump-swap job in a Calais car park!quote said:
..you mean Dunkirk car park...I have one of those photos as well
Oliver, welcome to TVR Ownership. I was the one who chatted to you at the Kings Head in Bawburgh the other day...If I remember that you are in the Wymondham area, then me and Steve are virtually your neighbours.
- Any help/support you need, or fancy a run out, then we should arrange....Especially with a 4-day week end coming up.
Ref leaks: There are also sources of swirl pots if that has problems, now in st.st., alhtough there is an issue we are currnetly working on with that (Steve will know what I mean).
Doing the pump change in a car park was different Oliver, welcome to TVR Ownership. I was the one who chatted to you at the Kings Head in Bawburgh the other day...If I remember that you are in the Wymondham area, then me and Steve are virtually your neighbours.
- Any help/support you need, or fancy a run out, then we should arrange....Especially with a 4-day week end coming up.
Ref leaks: There are also sources of swirl pots if that has problems, now in st.st., alhtough there is an issue we are currnetly working on with that (Steve will know what I mean).
Steve, the 2nd photo is not your best angle. At times however it is the area the you make the most noise with (an Ardennes evening comes to mind). I guess it gives a reason to your noisy S tailpipes too....
How did you manage to avoid a heart attack when the coke bottle let go just 12 inches behind your head???
How did you manage to avoid a heart attack when the coke bottle let go just 12 inches behind your head???
AutoAndy said:
olly137 said:
my first of brobably many faults.
Dont be like that. We just got 20 S's accross Europe (At high speed), and round two of the meanest circuits there are (at very high speed), and got them back agina without any problems....ish.Super / solid motors.
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