TVR S2 Rear discs
Discussion
Its been done before by others (if only the search was working!), you'll need to replace rear hubs so that there is the correct mount for the caliper.
These look like the parts that you require but I am not 100% confident. I'm sure someone else who knows more will be along in no time to say for sure. The add states they are from a Sierra 4x4 but I'm not sure if there were any differences on the sierra to the non 4x4 models with rear disks. Get them refurbed then bolted on. You'll also need a new hand brake cable, racetech now stock one for the V8s which should be correct for you too. Its just a shortened Sierra cable though.
These look like the parts that you require but I am not 100% confident. I'm sure someone else who knows more will be along in no time to say for sure. The add states they are from a Sierra 4x4 but I'm not sure if there were any differences on the sierra to the non 4x4 models with rear disks. Get them refurbed then bolted on. You'll also need a new hand brake cable, racetech now stock one for the V8s which should be correct for you too. Its just a shortened Sierra cable though.
Edited by The Big G on Wednesday 6th June 08:50
The Big G said:
you'll need to replace rear hubs so that there is the correct mount for the caliper.
When I did mine I bought calipers, disc's and hubs from A guy who was up-rating his Griffith so I knew they'd be right!Didn't use the hubs in the end though because it involves different bearings and/or some machining I think. Instead I used a pair of caliper mounting brackets from "3GE Components", they sell a lot of kit car stuff. Couldn't have been easier, they just bolt on in place of the brake back plate. Only difference is I think "standard" set up puts the caliper at 12 o'clock (top of the disc), with these its either 3 or 9 o'clock.
You'll also need two more flexi brake pipes, from trailing arm to caliper.
V8S hand brake cables don't come cheap but Sierra/Granada ones do so I shortened one of them



As you can see I went for the solid disc's (253 x 10mm), later Griffs and Chims had vented (273 x 20mm)
www.brakesint.co.uk is an excellent reference site (and their prices are pretty good), they give all the dimensions so you just keep searching various Sierras till you find what you want.
Solid disc is XRi 4x4 and vented are Cozzie 4x4 (but check, don't take my word for it).
Edited by phillpot on Wednesday 6th June 22:36
phillpot said:
Didn't use the hubs in the end though because it involves different bearings and/or some machining I think. Instead I used a pair of caliper mounting brackets
Phillpot, out of curiosity do you know which parts need to be changed/machined? Is this because a vanilla hub won't fit our trailing arm's. Are the different bearings due to different drive shafts. Just curious in case I ever need to replace my hubs or bearings in the future. The Big G said:
Phillpot, out of curiosity do you know which parts need to be changed/machined?
There was a very good thread on this a while ago, written by someone who bought the bits from a guy called Hans in Holland makes up conversion kits using all new or reconditioned parts.you may find it if the search is working.I took a print of it from which I'll summerise.......
Kit includes:
Rear calipers (from Granada Cosworth and possibly others)
273 x 20 vented discs
Brake pads
2 Cosworth bearing carriers
2 new wheel bearings (bigger than original) maybe that should be 4 ?
2 drive shaft ends (Cosworth)
2 wheel flanges (4 stud, later were 5 stud)
It goes on to say, Three points to consider....
1 Drive shaft ends are turned down (to fit through trailing arms)
2 You will need to fabricate a small "L" bracket for the additional flex pipe from caliper
3 You will need a different handbrake cable
HTH Mike
Edited by phillpot on Sunday 10th June 11:11
mikel003003 said:
yes thats it thanks, did you have to remove the hubs then, how was that ?
It was good for me !Other people have put the space saver on and leave the wheel on the ground to hold it while undoing the big nut.
You'll still need the caliper carrier/slider


The brackets replace these....

Edited by phillpot on Tuesday 12th June 06:52
phillpot said:
There was a very good thread on this a while ago, written by someone who bought the bits from a guy called Hans in Holland makes up conversion kits using all new or reconditioned parts.
you may find it if the search is working.I took a print of it from which I'll summerise.......
Kit includes:
Rear calipers (from Granada Cosworth and possibly others)
273 x 20 vented discs
Brake pads
2 Cosworth bearing carriers
2 new wheel bearings (bigger than original) maybe that should be 4 ?
2 drive shaft ends (Cosworth)
2 wheel flanges (4 stud, later were 5 stud)
It goes on to say, Three points to consider....
1 Drive shaft ends are turned down (to fit through trailing arms)
2 You will need to fabricate a small "L" bracket for the additional flex pipe from caliper
3 You will need a different handbrake cable
HTH Mike
Many thanks for taking the time to write that out for me, it is all good info to know. I know of Han and his kits but I don't remember reading the tread on the subject.you may find it if the search is working.I took a print of it from which I'll summerise.......
Kit includes:
Rear calipers (from Granada Cosworth and possibly others)
273 x 20 vented discs
Brake pads
2 Cosworth bearing carriers
2 new wheel bearings (bigger than original) maybe that should be 4 ?
2 drive shaft ends (Cosworth)
2 wheel flanges (4 stud, later were 5 stud)
It goes on to say, Three points to consider....
1 Drive shaft ends are turned down (to fit through trailing arms)
2 You will need to fabricate a small "L" bracket for the additional flex pipe from caliper
3 You will need a different handbrake cable
HTH Mike
Edited by phillpot on Sunday 10th June 11:11
Many thanks again
Gordon
phillpot said:
It was good for me !
Other people have put the space saver on and leave the wheel on the ground to hold it while undoing the big nut.
You'll still need the caliper carrier/slider

One of theseOther people have put the space saver on and leave the wheel on the ground to hold it while undoing the big nut.
You'll still need the caliper carrier/slider


With a 41mm (I think) impact socket will also take it off easily but will make quite a bit of noise! My 1m breaker bar wouldn't budge it.
Forgot to mention....
With the calipers mounted at "9 o'clock" the handbrake cable is at the top, this is good but the bleed nipple is at the bottom. not so good.
They could be fitted at "3 o'clock" putting nipple at top, good, but handbrake cable is now at the bottom, hanging down very low, not good.
I went for nipple at bottom, this just means that to bleed the brakes (not something that should need doing too often) I un-bolt the calipers and slide them round still on the disc to "12 o'clock".
Reminded myself of this this evening when I came to bleed the brakes after fitting my shiny stainless balance valve bracket, photo's to follow soon !
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