Increased ground clearance!!
Discussion
Took the exhaust off today and the down pipes to try and rescue my leaking system without spending again. Good news!! As the previous exhaust was considerably lower than the new JP SS system, I have managed to gain some height by altering the other pipes.
After librally coating the down pipes in High Temperature RTF, I managed to fit them much further into the manifolds, about 1/2" off the chassis.
Ground clearance is much improved, just waiting overnight for it to cure before I start up.
Hopefully it will last for a while.
After librally coating the down pipes in High Temperature RTF, I managed to fit them much further into the manifolds, about 1/2" off the chassis.
Ground clearance is much improved, just waiting overnight for it to cure before I start up.
Hopefully it will last for a while.
shnozz said:
KentishS2 may well be very interested
Hi Phil,
Yes you're right. I need to sort out my exhaust as the garage who rebuilt my engine have left the downpipes leaking fairly badly, the stainless system is in good condition but the baffles make a horrible singing noise at 2700 rpm or so. Therefore, it will all have to come off soon and I'm having the silencer opened and baffles removed or replaced and whilst re-fitting I'll try and get the system up as high as possible and make a better job of sealing all the manifolds/downpipes/system like Chris has just done.
Cheers,
KS2
PS
Chris ....what RTF sealer did you use?
Trouble usually is that the stuff hardens too much and crumbles away. RTF remains flexi ....sounds a good idea.
>> Edited by kentishS2 on Wednesday 4th August 09:26
The main thing I've found is that the S system is actuall built the wrong way. The to help prevent any leaks, the down pipes should fit over the manifolds and the exhaust over the down pipes. This way when the gas exits the first pipe it is well past the join and would need to flow backwards to get out of the join. On the S it is the other way around, therefore you will have to have a perfect seal to stop it leaking. This would require having perfectly circular tubes with absoluteoly no distortion on them to get the seal, as all tubes are sightly distorted when bending this is all but impossible.
If some one had the time/money they could get the tubes cut off the manifolds after the collector box then have a slightly smaller pipe (say 60 thou smaller) weleded on. This would allow the manifold to slip inside the down pipes then robert's your father's brother.
Does anybody elses system do the above?
Anyhow, basically what I did was clean the downpipe faces off well, coat it in high temp (good up to 700 deg F) then shove them up in to the downpipes, in hindsight I should have put some more on as I only coated the first 2", I managed to get about 3.5" up there. Then I smeared it all round the join. This also took some of the stress off the join between the exhaust and down pipes as previously the down pipes were too low and causing the exhaust to enter them at an angle.
I did try gun gum/mufflit last time but as the engine rocks a bit theis hardened and cracked off after a week and a half. It was great for sealing holes in silencers but not for anything else. I'm honping that this will last a bit longer as it is flexible. No doubt it will harden after a while but we'll see.
It's a pity I'm off to Newcastle for a while Kevin, or I could have had a look at your system. I'm getting quite good at getting them on and off now, about 2 hours for on and off. Are your down pipes SS? If not I reccomend contacting ACT and getting a pair, that's what I did. £30 or somthing like that.
If some one had the time/money they could get the tubes cut off the manifolds after the collector box then have a slightly smaller pipe (say 60 thou smaller) weleded on. This would allow the manifold to slip inside the down pipes then robert's your father's brother.
Does anybody elses system do the above?
Anyhow, basically what I did was clean the downpipe faces off well, coat it in high temp (good up to 700 deg F) then shove them up in to the downpipes, in hindsight I should have put some more on as I only coated the first 2", I managed to get about 3.5" up there. Then I smeared it all round the join. This also took some of the stress off the join between the exhaust and down pipes as previously the down pipes were too low and causing the exhaust to enter them at an angle.
I did try gun gum/mufflit last time but as the engine rocks a bit theis hardened and cracked off after a week and a half. It was great for sealing holes in silencers but not for anything else. I'm honping that this will last a bit longer as it is flexible. No doubt it will harden after a while but we'll see.
It's a pity I'm off to Newcastle for a while Kevin, or I could have had a look at your system. I'm getting quite good at getting them on and off now, about 2 hours for on and off. Are your down pipes SS? If not I reccomend contacting ACT and getting a pair, that's what I did. £30 or somthing like that.
Chris, thanks for that info, there are some very useful points there to address when I remove and refit mine.
The problem with mine is that the garage who did my engine rebuild were lazy and didn't seal mine and re-assemble them properly, they told me the noise was a split silencer box which I'm not so sure it is now as it sounds like it blows further forward around the downpipes. Anyway, I will check the exhaust when I get it off by filling it with water and see if there are any leaks and get it welded as need be.
I'll most certainly observe all the advice you have given here when re-fitting. I did ask a garage near me how much to remove and refit as he has the advantage of a ramp and he said £30 but I don't really trust most places to do a proper job now, I'd rather do it myself. There is a local stainless steel welder who is going to open the box and do the baffles for me and re-weld anything that may need re-welding and he has quoted £30-£50 which is pretty good. It's worth it as the exhaust itself is still in good overall nick.
I must look out for some flexi exhaust sealer, you're right about the stuff that hardens, not much use on piperwork!
Cheers,
KS2
The problem with mine is that the garage who did my engine rebuild were lazy and didn't seal mine and re-assemble them properly, they told me the noise was a split silencer box which I'm not so sure it is now as it sounds like it blows further forward around the downpipes. Anyway, I will check the exhaust when I get it off by filling it with water and see if there are any leaks and get it welded as need be.
I'll most certainly observe all the advice you have given here when re-fitting. I did ask a garage near me how much to remove and refit as he has the advantage of a ramp and he said £30 but I don't really trust most places to do a proper job now, I'd rather do it myself. There is a local stainless steel welder who is going to open the box and do the baffles for me and re-weld anything that may need re-welding and he has quoted £30-£50 which is pretty good. It's worth it as the exhaust itself is still in good overall nick.
I must look out for some flexi exhaust sealer, you're right about the stuff that hardens, not much use on piperwork!
Cheers,
KS2
If you want to check where things are leaking, get a tube, bit of oil/fuel pipe will do, put one end in your ear and run the other around where you think it is leaking. You will soon hear lots of nois if it is leaking as the air/gas will blow down the tube.
I have spent many a time doing this on the tiv and my mini.
Be careful not to burn yourself. So it's best to do it from cold.
If you can get a ramp or pit get under the car and do this.
I have spent many a time doing this on the tiv and my mini.
Be careful not to burn yourself. So it's best to do it from cold.
If you can get a ramp or pit get under the car and do this.
In a previous thread Steve Reid said
'try using RTV Silicon available from B&Q and other good retail outlets, very effective sTeVeR'
Haven't tried it myself yet as the body off restoration has been delayed as I broke my ankle in 3 places.
Great weather, TVR in pieces, one leg = bummer
'try using RTV Silicon available from B&Q and other good retail outlets, very effective sTeVeR'
Haven't tried it myself yet as the body off restoration has been delayed as I broke my ankle in 3 places.
Great weather, TVR in pieces, one leg = bummer
rpage said:
In a previous thread Steve Reid said
'try using RTV Silicon available from B&Q and other good retail outlets, very effective sTeVeR'
Haven't tried it myself yet as the body off restoration has been delayed as I broke my ankle in 3 places.
Great weather, TVR in pieces, one leg = bummer
That is a bummer, hope you are getting around OK soon.
Would Bodgit & Queepaway (B & Q) silicone sealer be suitable for sealing the exhaust at such high temperatures?
Hi Kevin
Nope B&Q Silicone is not up to the job, or so I have been told. I got mine from my local motor factors. I can't remember what it was called. I just asked for high temp stupp. Good up to 700F. I've left it in Surrey, but I'll ring my Father and try and get the name of it for you.
Actually I was in the Leciester services yesterday, with the car jacked up and realligning my exhaust clamos ti give a better seal. Stil leaking a little but much better than before.
Nope B&Q Silicone is not up to the job, or so I have been told. I got mine from my local motor factors. I can't remember what it was called. I just asked for high temp stupp. Good up to 700F. I've left it in Surrey, but I'll ring my Father and try and get the name of it for you.
Actually I was in the Leciester services yesterday, with the car jacked up and realligning my exhaust clamos ti give a better seal. Stil leaking a little but much better than before.
Two points worthy of note.
On the exhaust,
I have recently cut the top of my box to cure baffle vibration but can find nothing wrong. I am guessing that either something is loose in the preliminary oval pipe or the exhaust was touching the body somewhere. (Hard to beleive as it made such a racket around 3000rpm.)Also as an S1, it does have the downpipes feeding inside the exhaust to miminise leaks. It seems strange that TVR would have reversed this for the S2.
On rpage's ankle,
I have the same problem, took the exhaust off and removed the diff and prop to recon. Went to play football and broke my ankle. Bummer as I won't get to silverstone now and will miss driving through most of the good weather.
Not HP!!!
On the exhaust,
I have recently cut the top of my box to cure baffle vibration but can find nothing wrong. I am guessing that either something is loose in the preliminary oval pipe or the exhaust was touching the body somewhere. (Hard to beleive as it made such a racket around 3000rpm.)Also as an S1, it does have the downpipes feeding inside the exhaust to miminise leaks. It seems strange that TVR would have reversed this for the S2.
On rpage's ankle,
I have the same problem, took the exhaust off and removed the diff and prop to recon. Went to play football and broke my ankle. Bummer as I won't get to silverstone now and will miss driving through most of the good weather.
Not HP!!!
gefopsman said:
Two points worthy of note.
On the exhaust,
It seems strange that TVR would have reversed this for the S2.
S1 has Ford Manifolds into a TVR System, S2 + S3 have TVR manifolds into TVR system. I know this is correct as my manifolds have slots cut in them to go over the downpipes.
Sorry to hear about your ankle. Maybe you could get a ride with someone. I would offer but the gf is coming with me.
Thanks Wildfire.
I was looking at sourcing a second hand exhaust of an S2. I guess that this means it wont fit.
I may just come along to Silverstone in the auto Saab I have swapped for my Company Car. Not the same but better than missing out all together.
The ankle is a pain, made worse by the fact that the S is in bits. But at least it gives me time to do a few things that may have gone undone.
Just sourced another gearbox which I will rebuild while off work. Fitted the new UJs to the propshaft today. Got grease all over my plaster so I can see some finger wagging coming when I go back to the hospital.
Still trying to source new joints for the driveshafts but am struggling to find which model they are off. Given the casting number to Ford Dealer but just got a blank expresion in return.
Hopefully the ankle will soon be as good as new and the TIV will be much better than it was before.
I was looking at sourcing a second hand exhaust of an S2. I guess that this means it wont fit.
I may just come along to Silverstone in the auto Saab I have swapped for my Company Car. Not the same but better than missing out all together.
The ankle is a pain, made worse by the fact that the S is in bits. But at least it gives me time to do a few things that may have gone undone.
Just sourced another gearbox which I will rebuild while off work. Fitted the new UJs to the propshaft today. Got grease all over my plaster so I can see some finger wagging coming when I go back to the hospital.
Still trying to source new joints for the driveshafts but am struggling to find which model they are off. Given the casting number to Ford Dealer but just got a blank expresion in return.
Hopefully the ankle will soon be as good as new and the TIV will be much better than it was before.
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