Flat Tires, Locking Nuts - Grrrrrr !!
Discussion
Curses b
dy curses Batman ! Drat Drat and double Drat ! (lots of other bad language etc ...)
Flat tire this morning half a mile out from home - jacked the car up with one of those totally crap jacks (trolley jack at home) and oh look - the locking nut has walked from it's place in the glove to lord knows where !! Had to drive home on th flat and change cars. Tire is now totally shagged - Grrrrr !!!
So a couple of questions :
1) Are all S3 locking nuts the same ? As if so, there are some other S's nearby I maybe able to borrow from. If not - (and assuming I can't find my one) - what the arse does one do next ?
2) She currently has Bridgestone RE71's all round - so I shall probably stay with that - but they've been on for quite a while - should I be replacing them in pairs if they're quite worn ?
Thanks guys,
WG
dy curses Batman ! Drat Drat and double Drat ! (lots of other bad language etc ...) Flat tire this morning half a mile out from home - jacked the car up with one of those totally crap jacks (trolley jack at home) and oh look - the locking nut has walked from it's place in the glove to lord knows where !! Had to drive home on th flat and change cars. Tire is now totally shagged - Grrrrr !!!
So a couple of questions :
1) Are all S3 locking nuts the same ? As if so, there are some other S's nearby I maybe able to borrow from. If not - (and assuming I can't find my one) - what the arse does one do next ?
2) She currently has Bridgestone RE71's all round - so I shall probably stay with that - but they've been on for quite a while - should I be replacing them in pairs if they're quite worn ?
Thanks guys,
WG
I’d imagine that they’re different in the majority. It depends on the type of lock. If it’s a key like a house type key with a collar fitting over a nut then there are more variations. If it is a key socket with locating lugs top suit the nut then there are less variations and you may find that 1 in 100 of your type are the same but that’s still a bit of a long shot.
Contrary to popular belief, it is pretty easy to get locking nuts off. A file, hammer, blunt chisel and an hour to spare are all you need.
When you’re all sorted with new tyres and locks etc, I’d advise keeping a can of liquid rubber sealer/inflator in the boot (available from Halfords).
My V6S doesn’t have any spare wheel so I have to keep a couple of cans on board and I’ve found that it works very well. The only time when it is no use is when there is a split in the tyre. There is enough gas in the can to inflate the tyre to get you going and the liquid rubber solution hardens when it comes into contact with air (the leak) making a permanent seal. All you need to do after that is find an airline to bring the tyre back up to the correct pressure.
Contrary to popular belief, it is pretty easy to get locking nuts off. A file, hammer, blunt chisel and an hour to spare are all you need.
When you’re all sorted with new tyres and locks etc, I’d advise keeping a can of liquid rubber sealer/inflator in the boot (available from Halfords).
My V6S doesn’t have any spare wheel so I have to keep a couple of cans on board and I’ve found that it works very well. The only time when it is no use is when there is a split in the tyre. There is enough gas in the can to inflate the tyre to get you going and the liquid rubber solution hardens when it comes into contact with air (the leak) making a permanent seal. All you need to do after that is find an airline to bring the tyre back up to the correct pressure.
kentishS2 said:
I’d imagine that they’re different in the majority. It depends on the type of lock. If it’s a key like a house type key with a collar fitting over a nut then there are more variations. If it is a key socket with locating lugs top suit the nut then there are less variations and you may find that 1 in 100 of your type are the same but that’s still a bit of a long shot.
Oh dear. Will take the house apart to find it then. I have the simple type. A nut with a locator in the right position slotss into it. I know it was in the glove before we went away ...
kentishS2 said:
Contrary to popular belief, it is pretty easy to get locking nuts off. A file, hammer, blunt chisel and an hour to spare are all you need.
Really ? Don't suppose you could expand on the technique by any chance ? Might have to be my email as Ted might not like the details to be up here.
kentishS2 said:
When you’re all sorted with new tyres and locks etc, I’d advise keeping a can of liquid rubber sealer/inflator in the boot (available from Halfords).
My V6S doesn’t have any spare wheel so I have to keep a couple of cans on board and I’ve found that it works very well. The only time when it is no use is when there is a split in the tyre. There is enough gas in the can to inflate the tyre to get you going and the liquid rubber solution hardens when it comes into contact with air (the leak) making a permanent seal. All you need to do after that is find an airline to bring the tyre back up to the correct pressure.
I heard there were speed and mileage restrictions with Tyreweld ? Is this not the case then ?
I see a lot of people have moved to RE720's from the RE71's - are these of the same profile ? Obviously I'd definately need to replace both sides.
Thankyou for your help - really good,
WG
WonkyGibbon said:
I see a lot of people have moved to RE720's from the RE71's - are these of the same profile ? Obviously I'd definately need to replace both sides.
As for tyreweld... useful for getting you out of a jam.. and supposedly people can repair tyres that have had tyreweld in them...But every garage I've ever been to, refuses to have anything to do with them… probably as it's a sod to clean off the gunk it leaves behind.
WonkyGibbon said:
I see a lot of people have moved to RE720's from the RE71's - are these of the same profile ? Obviously I'd definately need to replace both sides.
I've been using RE720 for a couple of years and they're just as good as RE71.
www.bridgestone-eu.com/articles.asp?ID=139
You are correct in saying that garages wont tough a tyre that has been done with tyre weld and i think tyre weld take the pi55 when they say most garages will remove for a small fee, They wont. I have seen what you need to do to remove stuff. Take the tyre off the rim and pressure wash out the tyre weld very very messy and you will get soaked as it takes about 10 mins, then you need to repair tyre, Most garages can do this but dont want to and i dont blame them.
Can you get hold of RE71's any more? I know the V8S boys were keen as they are Z rated. If you only need a V rating the RE720's are fine and I was very impressed with them, particularly in the wet. I went for RE720's over SO2's to get the original 60 profile back and raise the ride height a little more. Personally I thought the RE720's were better than the SOs.
wedget said:
You are correct in saying that garages wont tough a tyre that has been done with tyre weld and i think tyre weld take the pi55 when they say most garages will remove for a small fee, They wont. I have seen what you need to do to remove stuff. Take the tyre off the rim and pressure wash out the tyre weld very very messy and you will get soaked as it takes about 10 mins, then you need to repair tyre, Most garages can do this but dont want to and i dont blame them.
yep, which is exactly why I try to avoid using it at all costs. When i did use it, I telephoned 9 local tyre fitters and none of them would remove it from the tyre. So each time you use it also means a new tyre. When I had a puncture 2 weeks after fitting new boots I wasnt going to let a small nail puncture cost me £120.
I carry a can as emergancy back up now, but would only use it if I was really stuck.
Relief.
It sounds like the guilty party has been located - my partner emptied the glove before we went on holiday not realising that the nut was important - I of course didn't twig the significance of her saying she'd cleared out the glove.
Thanks for your advice - particularly with getting the locking nut off. btw: Is it possible to get a spare from TVR (now we've hopefully located the original) ? I feel somewhat at risk now !
You've totally persuaded me over the RE720's - I'll get a pair for the rears for the time being (cash is a bit tight what with one thing or another at the mo').
Thankyou all,
WG
It sounds like the guilty party has been located - my partner emptied the glove before we went on holiday not realising that the nut was important - I of course didn't twig the significance of her saying she'd cleared out the glove.
Thanks for your advice - particularly with getting the locking nut off. btw: Is it possible to get a spare from TVR (now we've hopefully located the original) ? I feel somewhat at risk now !
You've totally persuaded me over the RE720's - I'll get a pair for the rears for the time being (cash is a bit tight what with one thing or another at the mo').
Thankyou all,
WG
shnozz said:
Can you get hold of RE71's any more? I know the V8S boys were keen as they are Z rated. If you only need a V rating the RE720's are fine and I was very impressed with them, particularly in the wet. I went for RE720's over SO2's to get the original 60 profile back and raise the ride height a little more. Personally I thought the RE720's were better than the SOs.
Presumably the RE720's are the same profile as the RE71's ? Just thinking about the old exhaust grind problem.
WG
The stuff I used didn't give any advice on speed afer use, it also implied it is permanent. It wasn't tyreweld though, I bought this stuff in France.
In theory it should be permanent as the first small amount will instantly be sucked to the leak and the rest should remain fluid inside the tyre, if you get another puncture it should instantly re-seal again. I even thought that I may fill all the tyres with it as a preventative measure. My local tyre place doesn't have a problem with it. They'd need to clean and rough up the area of the puncture anyway and the liquid rubber easily cleans off metal, you just need to rub it off with a cloth and white spirit or similar. I've watched them do it and it really was no real hassle. They must be a bit girly to not want to get messy!
In theory it should be permanent as the first small amount will instantly be sucked to the leak and the rest should remain fluid inside the tyre, if you get another puncture it should instantly re-seal again. I even thought that I may fill all the tyres with it as a preventative measure. My local tyre place doesn't have a problem with it. They'd need to clean and rough up the area of the puncture anyway and the liquid rubber easily cleans off metal, you just need to rub it off with a cloth and white spirit or similar. I've watched them do it and it really was no real hassle. They must be a bit girly to not want to get messy!
shnozz said:
Presumably the RE720's are the same profile as the RE71's ? Just thinking about the old exhaust grind problem.
WG
yep, they are the same profile
Okay - so still a bit of grind then
I notice that you can buy them mail order from www.blackcircles.com/
Are tyre fitters genrally happy to fit tyres they haven't supplied ?
kentishS2 said:
The stuff I used didn't give any advice on speed afer use, it also implied it is permanent. It wasn't tyreweld though, I bought this stuff in France.
In theory it should be permanent as the first small amount will instantly be sucked to the leak and the rest should remain fluid inside the tyre, if you get another puncture it should instantly re-seal again. I even thought that I may fill all the tyres with it as a preventative measure. My local tyre place doesn't have a problem with it. They'd need to clean and rough up the area of the puncture anyway and the liquid rubber easily cleans off metal, you just need to rub it off with a cloth and white spirit or similar. I've watched them do it and it really was no real hassle. They must be a bit girly to not want to get messy!
interesting stuff, I would have thought all the liquid floating around would mess up the balancing....
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