electric windows!!

[brettster]

Does anyone else have slow moving electric windows or is it just me???
They have to be pulled up with hand to close them. What sort of motor do they use and are they easy to change.
Any ideas?
Thanks
brett

[GadgeS3C]

I think they are all pretty slow but shouldn't have to be pulled up by hand. I believe the motors are pretty rare but hopefully some lubrication (silicone) or a strip and clean should help.

[brettster]

Thanks gadge

[Sandgrounder]

Electric windows is on my long list of things to sort on my new S3.

As a quick fix, I was hoping a good spray with silicone would sort mine out, but no such luck.

The motors must be available somewhere, but I wasn't going to investigate until may other issues are sorted.

Hope you get some good tips, so I can log the info for another day.

Graham

[Julesprivate]

Motors from that era tend to be rebuildable... My old scimitar ones started suffering from slow operation and a quick strip showed a lot of the magnetic core had crumbled and was acting as a grit in the gears.

Quick blow through with an airline, and some new bushes and it worked like new.

I'd be surprised if the TVR motors weren't VERY similar in construction if not the same ones...

[phillpot]

How fast do you want

While a bit of lube on the runners may help I found that re-greasing the actual rack that drives the window up 'n down (door card off job) made a big difference.

[Gerald-TVR]

Julesprivate said:

Motors from that era tend to be rebuildable... My old scimitar ones started suffering from slow operation and a quick strip showed a lot of the magnetic core had crumbled and was acting as a grit in the gears.

Quick blow through with an airline, and some new bushes and it worked like new.

I'd be surprised if the TVR motors weren't VERY similar in construction if not the same ones...

I dont think they are re-buildable. I found a specialist in Birmingham who only works on electric windows motors for the likes of early electric windows on RR and Bentley. Cases are intended to be sealed for life and the only way to open them is to bend bits of the casing and break off plastic lugs. But when they were open he said the parts were unobtainable.

BUT someone on here posted that the motors from a Renault (5 turbo I think) fit

There were at least two different types fitted

Early S2 with a conitious loop to lift and lower the window




Later S2 which had a flexible drive wire



Dismanted motor





The S3 are different again



Poor picture sorry.

All is not lost as the griff (and I think chimera) ones can be fitted. I know TVR Car Parts have done it (RIP) but also David Gerald Redditch

HTH

[Elfit]

As Norm says someone posted a while ago about renault 5 motors fitting. I bookmarked an ebay link at the time and it seems there are still some ( nearside) available
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400172422827?ssPageName=...

Tim

[rzrz]

After lubricating everything, checking voltage etc. I took the mechanism out several times; on the bench it worked fine (without the window attached). Fitted new window rubbers, re-assembled everything: slow window.
In the end one of the 2 lock nuts of the window holder appeared to be touching (that is, even cutting grooves in it, so no lack of power) the round bar part (where it bends) of the rail mechanism (S3C). Turning the bolt the other way around solved the problem; the head of the bolt is lower than the lock nut and doesn't touch the rail mechanism (1 mm room). Works fine now.
Hope this makes sense.

Gr, Raoul

[Sandgrounder]

Thanks Raoul, now that you mention it, when I was greasing up the rails I noticed what seemed to be contact between one of the nuts and the mechanism, so that does make sense.

When I get round to stripping the door down, I'll take another look.

[Oldred_V8S]

rzrz said:

After lubricating everything, checking voltage etc. I took the mechanism out several times; on the bench it worked fine (without the window attached). Fitted new window rubbers, re-assembled everything: slow window.
In the end one of the 2 lock nuts of the window holder appeared to be touching (that is, even cutting grooves in it, so no lack of power) the round bar part (where it bends) of the rail mechanism (S3C). Turning the bolt the other way around solved the problem; the head of the bolt is lower than the lock nut and doesn't touch the rail mechanism (1 mm room). Works fine now.
Hope this makes sense.

Gr, Raoul

This is key. If the felt has worn away the window will be running on rubber. Lubrication is a short-tem fix, replacement felts are available from Woolies. Make sure the lifter mechanism is nicely lubed. I have also fitted a relay modification to the switches. (Diagram attached) The amount of current trying to get through the tiny contacts is too high, especially with a stiff lifter mechanism and a worn felt.