Radiator Removal
Discussion
YES IT CAN but beware.
I replaced mine recently to have it recored. Came out easily because I didn't care about it, but it required 2 people to get it back in to make sure I didn't damage it. The back should be protected by the fan (which was still fitted on removal and replacement) though with hindsight I could have put HARDBOARD on the front while fitting it for protection.
The rad is held in with silly clips top and bottom which took some prising out, and difficulty refitting.
I replaced mine recently to have it recored. Came out easily because I didn't care about it, but it required 2 people to get it back in to make sure I didn't damage it. The back should be protected by the fan (which was still fitted on removal and replacement) though with hindsight I could have put HARDBOARD on the front while fitting it for protection.
The rad is held in with silly clips top and bottom which took some prising out, and difficulty refitting.
Agree with Dern - that's exactly how I did mine. You only need to raise the fron wheels by 3 or 4 inches to get the bonnet vertical.
Drain the coolant (by pulling off the bottom hose) then disconnect the top hose. There are two bolts that hold the top of the rad into the chassis - remove them, then the rad pulls backwards and upwards. (Mine has the fan in front of the rad so I was able to leave that in place)
I was able to refit it on my own as well - with a little care (and a lot of difficulty) getting the bottom two pins into the rubber grommets in the chassis.
Be careful to bleed the radiator properly when you are refilling it, or you end up with an airlock in the sytem and then it don't work proper innit?
Drain the coolant (by pulling off the bottom hose) then disconnect the top hose. There are two bolts that hold the top of the rad into the chassis - remove them, then the rad pulls backwards and upwards. (Mine has the fan in front of the rad so I was able to leave that in place)
I was able to refit it on my own as well - with a little care (and a lot of difficulty) getting the bottom two pins into the rubber grommets in the chassis.
Be careful to bleed the radiator properly when you are refilling it, or you end up with an airlock in the sytem and then it don't work proper innit?
My rad started leaking in the same lower corner. I had the unit recored for UKP162 (the suits in the front office didn't tell the workshop - it came back as a 2 core van rad!). I took the bonnet off with wife's assistance - watch the weight it's all at the front.It gave me a chance to treat the flaking powder coating on the rad supports. It's mounted on 2 pins and held in place with 2 bolts at the top. There's a cooker type seal between the rad edges and the mounting frame
which had become compressed and had to be "teased "up.
which had become compressed and had to be "teased "up.
Shame its not the standard LDV part. My father works there. Poor guy!!!!
I might try that first just to see if they did any specials for hot climate. He works in development, that's if you consider that LDV actually do any development.
Failing that it will be a recore.
Just realised we went to Silverstone at the weekend with no MOT so the rad may have to wait until this is sorted. Just in case there are any nightmares.
Fingers crossed
G
I might try that first just to see if they did any specials for hot climate. He works in development, that's if you consider that LDV actually do any development.
Failing that it will be a recore.
Just realised we went to Silverstone at the weekend with no MOT so the rad may have to wait until this is sorted. Just in case there are any nightmares.
Fingers crossed
G
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