S3 Gearbox Thrust Bearing
Discussion
Do a search as this one has been covered loads of times with varying opinions. I took the engine and box out of the front of the car as there didn't look as though there was enough room to take the box out of the bottom even with the cross member removed.
Pictures here... [url]www.cwork.nildram.co.uk/mark/cars/tvr/steveheath/[/url]
Getting the bonnet off is the easy bit, you just undo the nuts holding the backets on. The engine will come out with the manifolds on but I found you need to remove the dizzy (mark the position first) and the rocker cover with the oil filler cap on.
Regards,
Mark
Pictures here... [url]www.cwork.nildram.co.uk/mark/cars/tvr/steveheath/[/url]
Getting the bonnet off is the easy bit, you just undo the nuts holding the backets on. The engine will come out with the manifolds on but I found you need to remove the dizzy (mark the position first) and the rocker cover with the oil filler cap on.
Regards,
Mark
dern said:
Do a search as this one has been covered loads of times with varying opinions. I took the engine and box out of the front of the car as there didn't look as though there was enough room to take the box out of the bottom even with the cross member removed.
Pictures here... [url]www.cwork.nildram.co.uk/mark/cars/tvr/steveheath/[/url]
Getting the bonnet off is the easy bit, you just undo the nuts holding the backets on. The engine will come out with the manifolds on but I found you need to remove the dizzy (mark the position first) and the rocker cover with the oil filler cap on.
Regards,
Mark
Hi Mark,
In your photos you show the exhaust removed, is it a stainless one and if so do you know the make?
It looks identical to my stainless exhaust and i would like to know what make mine is.
Cheers,
Kentish
kentishS2 said:In all honesty I don't know what it was. It rusted a lot less that I would imagine a normal system would but corroded more than I would imagine a stainless system would do. I had no receipts for a replacement exhaust so assumed it was the original. Placing a magnet against it suggested it wasn't simply mild steel but then again I didn't have anything else to compare it to.
In your photos you show the exhaust removed, is it a stainless one and if so do you know the make?
It looks identical to my stainless exhaust and i would like to know what make mine is.
Sorry,
Mark
dern said:
kentishS2 said:
In your photos you show the exhaust removed, is it a stainless one and if so do you know the make?
It looks identical to my stainless exhaust and i would like to know what make mine is.
In all honesty I don't know what it was. It rusted a lot less that I would imagine a normal system would but corroded more than I would imagine a stainless system would do. I had no receipts for a replacement exhaust so assumed it was the original. Placing a magnet against it suggested it wasn't simply mild steel but then again I didn't have anything else to compare it to.
Sorry,
Mark
Thanks Mark, sounds like mine in condition and looks like mine too and I guess it could be a standard stainless system.
My front oval silencer baffles are shot and there's a split (repaired but only with sealer) in the back box. So, I've decided it's not worth repairing now and will go for a new one. I was just curious to know how old mine could be and the make if anyone was sad enough to recognise brands!

To get the gearbox out without the engine, you would also need to drop the diff (as the only way to remove the propshaft).
I guess that it may then be just as easy to remove engine/box together. This also gives a great opportunity to tidy the engine bay.
A good winter project if it will wait that long!!!
I guess that it may then be just as easy to remove engine/box together. This also gives a great opportunity to tidy the engine bay.
A good winter project if it will wait that long!!!

gefopsman said:
A good winter project if it will wait that long!!!
It's not that difficult in all honesty. I managed to get the engine out and back in single handedly. The real pig is working out what needs to be removed and working out where to attach the hoist to balance the engine/box in the right place (don't lift using the manifold as you squeeze them together and then they buzz) and I've done that so please feel free to ask (through my profile if I don't respond to this thread which I might not as I don't have an S any more).
I'd give it a day to get it all apart, a day to put it all back together and an evening to do the clutch. You'd be bonkers not to change the other bits of the clutch at the same time. If you had a mate to help even if they just made you coffee, rolled you fags and so on it all helps. A good engine hoist is a must, I bought mine for the occasion.
Once the engine is out changing the clutch is a piece of p*ss.
Regards,
Mark
>> Edited by dern on Monday 23 August 21:10
>> Edited by dern on Monday 23 August 21:11
kentishS2 said:My square box split and I got it welded up again. Just take it to an exhaust place and get them to take off the bottom panel, put some new baffles in and reweld, should be a lot cheaper than a new system.
My front oval silencer baffles are shot and there's a split (repaired but only with sealer) in the back box. So, I've decided it's not worth repairing now and will go for a new one. I was just curious to know how old mine could be and the make if anyone was sad enough to recognise brands!
Mark
Thanks for all you replies. I need to get this replacement done ASAP as I use the S alot and we are going on a 400 mile Highland Run with the club at the end of Sept, I do not think that the Thrust bearing will hold out for that one.
I intend to collate all the replies at the end of the week and advise my local mechanic accordingly. So keep up the good advice.
I do not have the facilities or the time to carry out major work on the S. I just take care of the regular maintenance work on my S.
My local mechanic is keen as mustard and has been looking after the S since purchase. He also has an affordable hourly labour rate (£29.50). He looks after other local TVRs and a local hill climb cars etc. He also has all the proper garage equipment and ramps etc. I am sure he will take into account all your good advice and weigh up the options of out the top or out from below.
I intend to collate all the replies at the end of the week and advise my local mechanic accordingly. So keep up the good advice.
I do not have the facilities or the time to carry out major work on the S. I just take care of the regular maintenance work on my S.
My local mechanic is keen as mustard and has been looking after the S since purchase. He also has an affordable hourly labour rate (£29.50). He looks after other local TVRs and a local hill climb cars etc. He also has all the proper garage equipment and ramps etc. I am sure he will take into account all your good advice and weigh up the options of out the top or out from below.
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