s1 partial lift
Discussion
Here is a link for a diagram of body off bolt positions
http://www.tvrccoxford.co.uk/images/chassisbolts.p...
Shamelessly lifted from barkychoc's body off thread.
As said before the earlier cars didn't have the bolts through from beneath the centre console.
His thread is here and it has lots of good info on it on his V8s rebuild. I found it invaluable when doing mine.
Hope this helps
http://www.tvrccoxford.co.uk/images/chassisbolts.p...
Shamelessly lifted from barkychoc's body off thread.
As said before the earlier cars didn't have the bolts through from beneath the centre console.
His thread is here and it has lots of good info on it on his V8s rebuild. I found it invaluable when doing mine.
Hope this helps
Think the bolts have been pretty well covered Mike, as for taking body right off or just a lift I guess its just a "few" wires, brake pipes cables etc? It is basically these that limit how high it can be lifted.
When I set about my outriggers body off would have given better and easier access but there were maybe two main reasons why I went for a lift and not "right off"
1. Corrosion wasn't too bad, only the corners needed cutting out and replacing.
2. I had bought this car to drive and so allowed myself a week to sort it (most time consuming was waiting for paint to dry) and get car back in use. Would have been all too easy for a body off to turn into a major rebuild, been down that road before, wanted the S to be a usable "rolling" restoration and not a garage (garden, house and shed) full of bits and a "will this ever go back together" feeling.
Well if you are doing a mini lift or whatever you want to call it have you got enough slack on the pipes? I wouldn't risk it personally.
The body has to slide back initially anyway so master cylinder hardly needs to move if you just seperate from servo.
No way will you get away with the clutch pipe it is a very stiff pipe you'll damage it unless you disconnect something.
The body has to slide back initially anyway so master cylinder hardly needs to move if you just seperate from servo.
No way will you get away with the clutch pipe it is a very stiff pipe you'll damage it unless you disconnect something.
Barkychoc said:
If you undo the two nuts holding the brake master to the servo and ease it forward off the servo there is no need to disconnect brake pipes.
Clutch make your own mind up but prob easiest just to remove pipe if it will come undone.
I found that, provided I snipped off the cable ties holding the brake and clutch pipes to the chassis, there was easily enough flex in the pipes to lift the body by 5 or 6 inches, enough to do an outrigger repair.Clutch make your own mind up but prob easiest just to remove pipe if it will come undone.
Barkychoc said:
The body has to slide back initially anyway
Mine didn't.Barkychoc said:
No way will you get away with the clutch pipe it is a very stiff pipe you'll damage it unless you disconnect something.
Mine didn't.Admittedly, it's very difficult to run around the car checking wiring and brake pipes etc as you lift by tiny amounts at a time, but it's possible if you are careful.
Edited by tvrgit on Wednesday 2nd January 11:27
tvrgit said:
Mine didn't.
Admittedly, it's very difficult to run around the car checking wiring and brake pipes etc as you lift by tiny amounts at a time, but it's possible if you are careful.
Having just completed a 'mini' lift on my S3C, I second tvrgit's comments above. I disconnected the wiring for the tank sender and snipped a cable tie here and there but that was it in terms of disconnecting, loosening and so on.Admittedly, it's very difficult to run around the car checking wiring and brake pipes etc as you lift by tiny amounts at a time, but it's possible if you are careful.
phillpot said:
When I set about my outriggers body off would have given better and easier access but there were maybe two main reasons why I went for a lift and not "right off"
1. Corrosion wasn't too bad, only the corners needed cutting out and replacing.
2. I had bought this car to drive and so allowed myself a week to sort it (most time consuming was waiting for paint to dry) and get car back in use. Would have been all too easy for a body off to turn into a major rebuild, been down that road before, wanted the S to be a usable "rolling" restoration and not a garage (garden, house and shed) full of bits and a "will this ever go back together" feeling.
Exactly my reasons as well. I took more than a week though because I'm lazy and fat. Oh and also because I spent more time (As I usually do) writing up my web site than I spend doing the work in the first place.1. Corrosion wasn't too bad, only the corners needed cutting out and replacing.
2. I had bought this car to drive and so allowed myself a week to sort it (most time consuming was waiting for paint to dry) and get car back in use. Would have been all too easy for a body off to turn into a major rebuild, been down that road before, wanted the S to be a usable "rolling" restoration and not a garage (garden, house and shed) full of bits and a "will this ever go back together" feeling.
There's a full bolt-by-bolt article on the whole "body lift" here http://www.andrewc.org.uk/tvrgit/bodylift.html
hopefully someone will be along shortly who knows for sure but I think you need to disconnect the cable from underneath and remove the little arm (no. 10), held on by a pinch bolt, from shaft that comes through the body from the lever.
The lever will now pull out or might need un-bolting from chassis ?
I do remember there's not a lot of room up there unless you happen to have the gearbox out!
The lever will now pull out or might need un-bolting from chassis ?
I do remember there's not a lot of room up there unless you happen to have the gearbox out!
Edited by phillpot on Sunday 6th January 13:45
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