Discussion
I've just done mine sitting on the ground (no jack or axle stands) and it was easy.
The previous owner of my car had drilled a 5mm hole in each sill (out of sight) at each end so I was able to poke the tube in above each outrigger and coat them all over with waxoyl.
Job done, all pukka mate (as Jamie Oliver would say)!
The previous owner of my car had drilled a 5mm hole in each sill (out of sight) at each end so I was able to poke the tube in above each outrigger and coat them all over with waxoyl.
Job done, all pukka mate (as Jamie Oliver would say)!
Hi Nick
The part you mean seems well accessible through the wheelarches. I mean the tubes on the side of the car where the body rests on. I read in this forum that the body can be lifted a few inches so the upside of the tubes is accessible. I was just wondering if anyone has tried this and how they managed to do it.
Did you use hammerite ?
cheers!
niels S1
The part you mean seems well accessible through the wheelarches. I mean the tubes on the side of the car where the body rests on. I read in this forum that the body can be lifted a few inches so the upside of the tubes is accessible. I was just wondering if anyone has tried this and how they managed to do it.
Did you use hammerite ?
cheers!
niels S1
niels said:
Hi Nick
The part you mean seems well accessible through the wheelarches. I mean the tubes on the side of the car where the body rests on. I read in this forum that the body can be lifted a few inches so the upside of the tubes is accessible. I was just wondering if anyone has tried this and how they managed to do it.
Did you use hammerite ?
cheers!
niels S1
There was a small section on top of each that would not have been accessible to coat had the holes not been drilled in the sills.
Hi There Niels,
If you are going to paint your chassis then you will get several recommendations to use POR-15 chassis paint. I too will recommend this product which is available mailorder from Frost.
As for jacking the body up a few inches then this is indeed possible, in fact you can jack the body up clear of the outriggers altogether. That said, it is not easy and will take you a considerable amount of time, think body off preparation time minus the actual lifting of the shell. But if you really want to do the job properly and cover all the out riggers and chassis mount points then give it a try.
Personally I jacked my body up about 20 cm and supported the whole thing on blocks of wood before I lifted it off, so it can be done.
If you do decide to go down this path and need any help with a list of things to do before you go ahead, there are a couple of webpages dedicated to the task which I can dig out if required.
If you need any advice from people on here, Spivvy has also had a “body off” recently, we should be able to guide you through it.
Z
If you are going to paint your chassis then you will get several recommendations to use POR-15 chassis paint. I too will recommend this product which is available mailorder from Frost.
As for jacking the body up a few inches then this is indeed possible, in fact you can jack the body up clear of the outriggers altogether. That said, it is not easy and will take you a considerable amount of time, think body off preparation time minus the actual lifting of the shell. But if you really want to do the job properly and cover all the out riggers and chassis mount points then give it a try.
Personally I jacked my body up about 20 cm and supported the whole thing on blocks of wood before I lifted it off, so it can be done.
If you do decide to go down this path and need any help with a list of things to do before you go ahead, there are a couple of webpages dedicated to the task which I can dig out if required.
If you need any advice from people on here, Spivvy has also had a “body off” recently, we should be able to guide you through it.
Z
Thanks a lot Z
I was thinking about painting some of the front bars (which are easily accessible) and then lifting the body just enough so I can reach the upside of the outriggers just like you did. I'd very much appreciate some tips or links on how to detach the body and lift it up in a safe way (don't want to crack it
).
The paint you mentioned. does it involve a lot of surface preparation (sanding, priming etc)?
I was thinking about painting some of the front bars (which are easily accessible) and then lifting the body just enough so I can reach the upside of the outriggers just like you did. I'd very much appreciate some tips or links on how to detach the body and lift it up in a safe way (don't want to crack it
). The paint you mentioned. does it involve a lot of surface preparation (sanding, priming etc)?
www.frost.co.uk/productList.asp?catID=55
Is a link to POR-15 details. In short, you only have to remove the loose stuff + waxoil etc then paint, no primer needed.
I'll dig out the rest of the advice and post ASAP.
Z
Follow the links in my old thread
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?f=11&h=&t=54362
>> Edited by z_chromozone on Tuesday 14th September 16:38
Is a link to POR-15 details. In short, you only have to remove the loose stuff + waxoil etc then paint, no primer needed.
I'll dig out the rest of the advice and post ASAP.
Z
Follow the links in my old thread
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?f=11&h=&t=54362
>> Edited by z_chromozone on Tuesday 14th September 16:38
Do you mean this area
If so i did them earlier in the year,and doing the top was a bu66er
Cleaning the area used all sorts of tools such as
Long screwdriver to clean across the top where you cant run a piece of sand paper around
various sandpapers
scrapers
flexiable hacksaw blade,not a cheapo as they snap,this can be shaped into a U shape so you can scrape the top bits.
Long artists brushes not to thick either
And lots of patience
Hope that helps
If so i did them earlier in the year,and doing the top was a bu66er
Cleaning the area used all sorts of tools such as
Long screwdriver to clean across the top where you cant run a piece of sand paper around
various sandpapers
scrapers
flexiable hacksaw blade,not a cheapo as they snap,this can be shaped into a U shape so you can scrape the top bits.
Long artists brushes not to thick either
And lots of patience
Hope that helps
thanks guys
I'll look forward to your tips.
From the pics it looks like most part of the tube can be reached without raising the body. Do you think the upside part of the tube that is in contact with the body is submissive to the elements and rust ? In other words, (and i'm not trying to sound lazy but..) is it absolutely necessary to raise the body?
Now see if the por15 stuff is sold somewhere in holland. (along with a big load of patience )
Cheers!
I'll look forward to your tips.
From the pics it looks like most part of the tube can be reached without raising the body. Do you think the upside part of the tube that is in contact with the body is submissive to the elements and rust ? In other words, (and i'm not trying to sound lazy but..) is it absolutely necessary to raise the body?
Now see if the por15 stuff is sold somewhere in holland. (along with a big load of patience
) Cheers!
information here about lift and por15, great product but doesn't come off skin or hair so wear lots of protection also plenty of ventilation or a good mask is essential
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/a.bolards/tvr//html/the_body_lift.html
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/a.bolards/tvr//html/the_body_lift.html
Niels,
have a good look at the pictures from my and Spivvys threads. The part that is just out of sight in Pies first piccy is usually where the rot sets in first. You can probably make a very good job using Pies method, but obviously it is very difficult to check.
I spoke with Spivvy about this at the Northants meeting and he said he was surprised just how much he had missed when he took the body off. That said, my and Spivvys cars were both in the later stages of completely rusting away and if most of the body coating is still intact then jacking up is definitely not needed.
Be aware that the rust usually starts along the weld line where the flat pieces of steel the chassis is mounted on are attached to the out riggers. If you can see these and make a good inspection without raising the body don’t raise it. If you cannot see them then it is your call. Personally I would not go for a body raise if I was in doubt. Once you have the body at that point the extra amount of work needed to remove the body and weld in new sections is really not so great.
Do remember to remove the extended sections of the rubber vibration insulting material with a craft knife. These trap dirt and water. Use the Pies method to remove all stones as these pierce the protective coating and start the rust in the first place. Also, check the seat belt mounting points while you are at it.
I will post some pics, but fotango is not working at the moment
Z
have a good look at the pictures from my and Spivvys threads. The part that is just out of sight in Pies first piccy is usually where the rot sets in first. You can probably make a very good job using Pies method, but obviously it is very difficult to check.
I spoke with Spivvy about this at the Northants meeting and he said he was surprised just how much he had missed when he took the body off. That said, my and Spivvys cars were both in the later stages of completely rusting away and if most of the body coating is still intact then jacking up is definitely not needed.
Be aware that the rust usually starts along the weld line where the flat pieces of steel the chassis is mounted on are attached to the out riggers. If you can see these and make a good inspection without raising the body don’t raise it. If you cannot see them then it is your call. Personally I would not go for a body raise if I was in doubt. Once you have the body at that point the extra amount of work needed to remove the body and weld in new sections is really not so great.
Do remember to remove the extended sections of the rubber vibration insulting material with a craft knife. These trap dirt and water. Use the Pies method to remove all stones as these pierce the protective coating and start the rust in the first place. Also, check the seat belt mounting points while you are at it.
I will post some pics, but fotango is not working at the moment
Z
Look forward to your pics. I don't think my outriggers are about to fall apart, so I think I 'll go for the Pies-method. The welding points and the front and rear tubes near the arches seem to be allright (just some surface rust or paint gone off). It's especially the tubes that run under the sides of the car that need work.
Thanks again !
Right, here are some pics of exactly where you have to look out for on the chassis.
1. The worst place is usually the near side outrigger, this gets all the crap from the gutter.
Notice the out rigger has completely collapsed on the side nearest my feet, and there is also a hole along the weld line at the front.
2. This is the off side outrigger. There is also a hole in the same place the other side had collapsed.
3. Points from axel stands were mentioned in another thread and this shows my preferred location for the rear stands to give maximum stability. If you are thinking of jacking do not forget to remove the bolts in vertical positions about these points.
Also, you may notice that I decided to paint my chassis black. Some people may not like it, but POR-15 I could not find in red and I black waxoiled / undersealed the whole thing anyway. You can paint over POR-15 with other products available from Frost in red, have a look through the catg.
I hope that helps,
Z
1. The worst place is usually the near side outrigger, this gets all the crap from the gutter.
Notice the out rigger has completely collapsed on the side nearest my feet, and there is also a hole along the weld line at the front.
2. This is the off side outrigger. There is also a hole in the same place the other side had collapsed.
3. Points from axel stands were mentioned in another thread and this shows my preferred location for the rear stands to give maximum stability. If you are thinking of jacking do not forget to remove the bolts in vertical positions about these points.
Also, you may notice that I decided to paint my chassis black. Some people may not like it, but POR-15 I could not find in red and I black waxoiled / undersealed the whole thing anyway. You can paint over POR-15 with other products available from Frost in red, have a look through the catg.
I hope that helps,
Z
Hi Z,
My chassis is in the same shape as yours. Just about to lift off the body once my doctors let me walk on my broken leg again.
Did you take all the plastic coating off or did you paint over it where it was sound?
If you did take it all off (steady Podie) how did you get it off.
Ralph
My chassis is in the same shape as yours. Just about to lift off the body once my doctors let me walk on my broken leg again.
Did you take all the plastic coating off or did you paint over it where it was sound?
If you did take it all off (steady Podie) how did you get it off.
Ralph
To get most of the coating off and the heavy bits of rust I bought an angle grinder and a large wire brush from Frost which would fit on my grinder (as the actual cutting wheels are no good for this task). www.frost.co.uk/productList.asp?catID=16 Have a look at the bevel brushes at the bottom of that web page. You WILL need goggles and a dust mask. I also recommend a decent pair of gardening gloves to protect your hands. One of the wire bristles flew off and impaled its self in my forehead a good few mm 
If this had been my eye it would have been nasty. I also had some smaller brushes fixed to a drill to get the more inaccessible areas. The brushes remove the loose stuff and you can then paint over with POR-15, it will also cover the powder coating no problem.
Z
If this had been my eye it would have been nasty. I also had some smaller brushes fixed to a drill to get the more inaccessible areas. The brushes remove the loose stuff and you can then paint over with POR-15, it will also cover the powder coating no problem. Z
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