BONNET RELEASE CABLE REPAIR
Discussion
I saw the recent thread about replacing the system and I thought I would add a separate thread on repairing the old system. Hope this will be of use to someone.
While the aerocatches do look good they do not provide the easy single operation unlock that the originals do, an I am not brave enough to cut my bonnet!. I really cannot see much wrong with the original system from am engineering point of view, IF it is on good order (and that is a big IF!). OK the release lever is a bit 'heath robinson' but if it is working right it is effective and nicely tucked away. There are however two problems with the original system;
The original single cable is a complete *** to install.
The system lacks adjustment as the cable stretches with age.
There is a pretty easy solution!
Undo the locks from the body and lift the locks out just enough to get access.
Withdraw the broken inner cable sections, one from each end (they will probably have broken near the operating lever. Remember they are c25 years old now (there is no reason why new cables shouldn’t last as long). Do not remove the cable outers unless it is clear that rust between inner and outer has been the problem.
Get a couple of good cycle rear brake cables, check the nipples on the end are suitable for the location in the lock. You can get stainless cables.
Run each inner down with a liberal amount of WD40 (or a proper cycle cable lubricant) on it. Do it a few times until the cable comes out clean. I wouldn’t recommend oil or grease, particularly if you wear decent trousers!!!
Get a cable clamp of the cylindrical type intended for a temp repair on a motorcycle cable (see pic). Or you can make something that will do the job using a bolt, sleeve and nut. Make sure the hole is enlarged enough to take two thicknesses of cycle cable. This is the important bit of the new system, a cheap little cable clamp will not do!
Take the nylon wheel off the release lever and cut a notch in it to take the radius of the clamp. Replace the nylon wheel (make sure it, and the handle pivot are free but not slopping about!). Use a nylock nut!
Put one cable over the top of the wheel and one under. Thread cables into the clamp from opposite directions.
Adjust tension, tighten clamp hard down and cut off excess cable (cutting the cable neatly isn’t easy unless you can borrow a cycle cable cutter from your local cycle shop or enthusiast….most mountain bikers will probably have one!).
You will see from my pic that I cut them too short and didn’t have enough to put a cycle cable end cover on, and they have frayed.
Clean up and re lubricate the catches and make sure they are working properly, reseal (this is a good place to look for water leaks) and refit, sealing the bolts as well.
You now have the original system with adjustable and (should they ever break again!) easily replaced cables inners.
Simples!! (Relatively!)
While the aerocatches do look good they do not provide the easy single operation unlock that the originals do, an I am not brave enough to cut my bonnet!. I really cannot see much wrong with the original system from am engineering point of view, IF it is on good order (and that is a big IF!). OK the release lever is a bit 'heath robinson' but if it is working right it is effective and nicely tucked away. There are however two problems with the original system;
The original single cable is a complete *** to install.
The system lacks adjustment as the cable stretches with age.
There is a pretty easy solution!
Undo the locks from the body and lift the locks out just enough to get access.
Withdraw the broken inner cable sections, one from each end (they will probably have broken near the operating lever. Remember they are c25 years old now (there is no reason why new cables shouldn’t last as long). Do not remove the cable outers unless it is clear that rust between inner and outer has been the problem.
Get a couple of good cycle rear brake cables, check the nipples on the end are suitable for the location in the lock. You can get stainless cables.
Run each inner down with a liberal amount of WD40 (or a proper cycle cable lubricant) on it. Do it a few times until the cable comes out clean. I wouldn’t recommend oil or grease, particularly if you wear decent trousers!!!
Get a cable clamp of the cylindrical type intended for a temp repair on a motorcycle cable (see pic). Or you can make something that will do the job using a bolt, sleeve and nut. Make sure the hole is enlarged enough to take two thicknesses of cycle cable. This is the important bit of the new system, a cheap little cable clamp will not do!
Take the nylon wheel off the release lever and cut a notch in it to take the radius of the clamp. Replace the nylon wheel (make sure it, and the handle pivot are free but not slopping about!). Use a nylock nut!
Put one cable over the top of the wheel and one under. Thread cables into the clamp from opposite directions.
Adjust tension, tighten clamp hard down and cut off excess cable (cutting the cable neatly isn’t easy unless you can borrow a cycle cable cutter from your local cycle shop or enthusiast….most mountain bikers will probably have one!).
You will see from my pic that I cut them too short and didn’t have enough to put a cycle cable end cover on, and they have frayed.
Clean up and re lubricate the catches and make sure they are working properly, reseal (this is a good place to look for water leaks) and refit, sealing the bolts as well.
You now have the original system with adjustable and (should they ever break again!) easily replaced cables inners.
Simples!! (Relatively!)
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