water leak

[steve j]

I`m in the process of getting the S2 back together and I`ve got a water leak from a steel pipe. It`s the pipe that runs around the right hand side of the sump and under the crank pulley, it connects to the block at the front left hand side and at the other end to the lower heater hose.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Item 37 in the diagram in the above pasted thread, I`ve tried the usual ford outlets and none available. Before I re-route the pipe run, does anyone know where i can get one, cheers for any help.
Stevej

Edited by steve j on Thursday 8th August 16:38

[Griffinr]

It's probably knackered mate.
Rob.

[steve j]

Griffinr said:

It's probably knackered mate.
Rob.

Hey rob, it`s full of pin holes the tin worm has got to it.

[S2Mike]

I think Phillpot made up a stainless version or purchased one, no doubt he will be along in a minute to elaborate..

[steve j]

S2Mike said:

I think Phillpot made up a stainless version or purchased one, no doubt he will be along in a minute to elaborate..

Cheers Mike, I`ve just found this.

http://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/ford/ford-6154329...

[mep12345]

Steve,

Think I have a second hand one in the shed - if you want it let me know

Mark

[v8s4me]

What’s the diameter? If it’s a standard copper tube size (22mm or 28mm) try a plumbers’ merchant and make one up maybe.

[GadgeS3C]

ACT do a stainless coolant pipe kit - but not sure if it has all the pipes.

http://www.actproducts.co.uk/shop/sc001-tvr-29-s-s...

[phillpot]

S2Mike said:

I think Phillpot made up a stainless version

Not yet !

But I did cut a big chunk off and replace with 15mm copper

[Top Gear TVR]

ACT kit does not include it....

[steve j]

phillpot said:

Not yet !

But I did cut a big chunk off and replace with 15mm copper

Hmm, sounds interesting, what about the beading on the ends of the pipe ?

[phillpot]

steve j said:

Hmm, sounds interesting, what about the beading on the ends of the pipe ?

Solder an olive (from a compression fitting) on.

this is the transition from steel to copper (must get that flakey paint sorted), we have a swaging tool at work that "opened up" the steel enough for the copper to slide in and be soldered (probably used silver solder but ordinary soft solder should do if done properly).




These are bits of (scrounged, begged and borrowed) stainless tube I have used to complete the heater circuit, these have no flaring or swaging on the ends ... not had a hose blow off yet !





The routing has been changed a little to clear the oil pipes to the remote filter.

Edited by phillpot on Thursday 8th August 21:25

[steve j]

Thank you Mike for the pics, I think my pipe has really had it though. I initially had one small leak and whilst I was cleaning the pipe a lot more appeared a new pipe me thinks.

[phillpot]

Price looks very reasonable on your link, no picture but guess you've spoken with them and are happy it's right ?

[steve j]

Yes the price does look good, I may get one, but I have another option

[v8s4me]

phillpot said:

These are bits of (scrounged, begged and borrowed) stainless tube I have used to complete the heater circuit........,

Is there an air conditioning unit somewhere which will never work again?

As an alternative to the olive you can use half a solder ring straight coupler. I made the 'H' piece for my heating circut out of these parts to replace the dodgy plastic one.