Fitting a new slave cylinder
Discussion
Anyone done this lately?
I seem to recall that problems with the slave cylinder are reasonably common.
I got the part and a going to have a go tomorrow - If anyone could give and hint and tips I'd be most grateful!
(pies - I'll try to put together a photo diary guide for you site when Ive done it )
Cheer all
Tim
I seem to recall that problems with the slave cylinder are reasonably common.
I got the part and a going to have a go tomorrow - If anyone could give and hint and tips I'd be most grateful!
(pies - I'll try to put together a photo diary guide for you site when Ive done it )
Cheer all
Tim
I have never changed the cylinder but did have to change the clutch pipe and bleed it, and even that was an absolute swine. There is only a tiny letterbox space between the box and the chassis that you can just about get your open hand in (one at a time) but not if it's already clenched around a spanner. The cylinder is about 4 inches up inside this narrow space. Even getting the new pipe on and the nut engaged in the thread took ages of pipe-bending and swearing...
I'm sure it's possible, but it certainly doesn't look easy!
I'm sure it's possible, but it certainly doesn't look easy!
I haven't changed it but did take it off to do the seals.
Not particularly difficult but as has been mentioned, there isn't much room.
As I remember the bolts are located tob and bottom of the cylinder, bottom is straight forward enough, top one is a bitch. You have to do it almost entirely by touch lying under the car with a spanner on the nut whilst you use another to undo the bolt. Problem is there is just about enough room to move the spanner to turn the bolt about one flat so it takes for ever even with a socket and ratchet.
Once the bolts are off it's easy enough to remove the pipe and extract the cylinder.
Replacement of the top bolt is even more fun than removing
Not particularly difficult but as has been mentioned, there isn't much room.
As I remember the bolts are located tob and bottom of the cylinder, bottom is straight forward enough, top one is a bitch. You have to do it almost entirely by touch lying under the car with a spanner on the nut whilst you use another to undo the bolt. Problem is there is just about enough room to move the spanner to turn the bolt about one flat so it takes for ever even with a socket and ratchet.
Once the bolts are off it's easy enough to remove the pipe and extract the cylinder.
Replacement of the top bolt is even more fun than removing
I haven't changed it but did take it off to do the seals.
Not particularly difficult but as has been mentioned, there isn't much room.
As I remember the bolts are located tob and bottom of the cylinder, bottom is straight forward enough, top one is a bitch. You have to do it almost entirely by touch lying under the car with a spanner on the nut whilst you use another to undo the bolt. Problem is there is just about enough room to move the spanner to turn the bolt about one flat so it takes for ever even with a socket and ratchet.
Once the bolts are off it's easy enough to remove the pipe and extract the cylinder.
Replacement of the top bolt is even more fun than removing
Not particularly difficult but as has been mentioned, there isn't much room.
As I remember the bolts are located tob and bottom of the cylinder, bottom is straight forward enough, top one is a bitch. You have to do it almost entirely by touch lying under the car with a spanner on the nut whilst you use another to undo the bolt. Problem is there is just about enough room to move the spanner to turn the bolt about one flat so it takes for ever even with a socket and ratchet.
Once the bolts are off it's easy enough to remove the pipe and extract the cylinder.
Replacement of the top bolt is even more fun than removing
I had my slave cylinder out recently and, yes, it can be a bit of a pain in the ass. The mounting bolts are not that fiddly but you do need the hands of a gynaecologist to get to the top bolt.
The best suggestion I have is that you must resist the temptation to bend the copper pipe to make extraction of the cylinder easier. Once you introduce a different bend to that which exists, it can be a right b**tard to get the fitting to screw into the back of the cylinder. What with the relative softness of the metal, if you get it wrong first time, you will end up having to remove the slave and re-tap the thread - as I did.
Be patient and its not a major deal.
The best suggestion I have is that you must resist the temptation to bend the copper pipe to make extraction of the cylinder easier. Once you introduce a different bend to that which exists, it can be a right b**tard to get the fitting to screw into the back of the cylinder. What with the relative softness of the metal, if you get it wrong first time, you will end up having to remove the slave and re-tap the thread - as I did.
Be patient and its not a major deal.
changed both my cylinders in the summer with help from a mechanic friend (and his pit)
The two main problems we had was getting the rod out of the master and the fact the new slave didn`t fit the mounting bracket. The exact replacement for the slave is hard to find (or non existent)so a bit of grinding was required to get the body to fit into retaining bracket, not a great problem. Can`t see the point of changing the slave and not the master for another £50 , but its up to you.2nd pair of hands is a good idea if you can find someone to stand around the garage for an hour or so.
Good luck
The two main problems we had was getting the rod out of the master and the fact the new slave didn`t fit the mounting bracket. The exact replacement for the slave is hard to find (or non existent)so a bit of grinding was required to get the body to fit into retaining bracket, not a great problem. Can`t see the point of changing the slave and not the master for another £50 , but its up to you.2nd pair of hands is a good idea if you can find someone to stand around the garage for an hour or so.
Good luck
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