Does not like to start
Does not like to start
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Discussion

jmccrary

Original Poster:

210 posts

156 months

Saturday 23rd November 2013
quotequote all
For the past few days when I tried to start her it would click like the battery is flat. It would do this 5-6 times and then start to turn over. I didn't know if this was a fault with the safety start switch (where the key cannot go to the start position once one) or something else. I also noticed this is only when the engine is cold.

cheers!

J

AutoAndy

2,270 posts

244 months

Saturday 23rd November 2013
quotequote all
...it may not be, but a simple check is to make sure the battery earth to the chassis is good and not corroded. It was that and a worn out starter motor which gave me similar problems....

steve j

3,223 posts

257 months

Saturday 23rd November 2013
quotequote all
It could be a dirty connection, especially on the starter or solenoid, this kind of fault is quite common.

jmccrary

Original Poster:

210 posts

156 months

Saturday 23rd November 2013
quotequote all
I will check it out! Thanks mate!

phillpot

17,508 posts

212 months

Saturday 23rd November 2013
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Come on....... somebody say "yellow connector" biggrin




Could be the starter solenoid is a bit kaput, but you could try wiring up a "hot start" first. Use the wire that actuates the starter solenoid to operate a relay and take a live from the big (live) cable on the solenoid through the switching contacts in the relay and back to the terminal you took the operating wire off.
This shortens and simplifies the heavy current route of the actuating circuit and can help.

jmccrary

Original Poster:

210 posts

156 months

Saturday 23rd November 2013
quotequote all
phillpot said:
Come on....... somebody say "yellow connector" biggrin




Could be the starter solenoid is a bit kaput, but you could try wiring up a "hot start" first. Use the wire that actuates the starter solenoid to operate a relay and take a live from the big (live) cable on the solenoid through the switching contacts in the relay and back to the terminal you took the operating wire off.
This shortens and simplifies the heavy current route of the actuating circuit and can help.
Interesting...will need to lo look at the relay lol

Loach1

437 posts

170 months

Sunday 24th November 2013
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I had the dreaded yellow connector with a lot of signs of heat, so I soldered the wire in question directly to the switch. That was a while back, but last weekend I decided to solder all of the wires to the switch just to eliminate any resistance from dodgy connections. I had the white/red wires getting warm when driving with lights on (even though they don't feed lights), but now they are nice and cool. The switch has just one screw that removes it from the lock barrel, so column removal is still very easy.

Justin,
The relay idea is a very good one - it takes the load away from the switch. To narrow down the issue, run a wire to the starter solenoid and touch it to the battery to see if it responds like it should. If it does, look at the ignition switch/dreaded yellow connector.

jmccrary

Original Poster:

210 posts

156 months

Sunday 24th November 2013
quotequote all
Loach1 said:
I had the dreaded yellow connector with a lot of signs of heat, so I soldered the wire in question directly to the switch. That was a while back, but last weekend I decided to solder all of the wires to the switch just to eliminate any resistance from dodgy connections. I had the white/red wires getting warm when driving with lights on (even though they don't feed lights), but now they are nice and cool. The switch has just one screw that removes it from the lock barrel, so column removal is still very easy.

Justin,
The relay idea is a very good one - it takes the load away from the switch. To narrow down the issue, run a wire to the starter solenoid and touch it to the battery to see if it responds like it should. If it does, look at the ignition switch/dreaded yellow connector.
Thanks David, I will check her out as soon as I get my hands on her again smile

glenrobbo

40,450 posts

179 months

Monday 10th March 2014
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Bump!

Hi Justin,
I'm guessing your S is a 2.8 seeing as you've imported into the U.S.

Have you followed all the sage advice offered so far?

Especially. checking the spade terminal connection at the starter motor solenoid. It can get corroded & become loose. Give it a good clean-up with fine emery or a contact file & gently crimp the female spade end a bit tighter with a pair of pliers, then apply a nice blob of Vaseline before pushing it back on.

If the fuel pump runs briefly when the ign. key is turned, then the purple relay is doing one aspect of its' job, but it's worth pulling it out of its' base to check for any signs of overheating, ie melted plastic, arcing on the contact blades, melting wiring insulation etc.

You haven't given much description of the symptoms....

Does the starter turn the engine over ok?
If not, can you hear the solenoid cliick?
Does the ign ( battery symbol ) warning light go dim when you turn the key?
Is the battery in good condition & fully charged?

If you've got fuel, sparks & air, there ain't much else needed fot it to start!
Let us know how you get on smile

ETA Sorry, I've just re-read your later post, & you say that it will turn over on the starter & there's plenty of fuel pressure.
I'm thinking " Is the fuel stale/ degraded/correct type/ contaminated with water?"

Are the plugs dirty/ fuel-soaked/ fouled/ incorrectly gapped?

Also are there any air leaks in the 3" hose to the inlet plenum?

Edited by glenrobbo on Monday 10th March 10:09