S1 with 2.9 hesitation
S1 with 2.9 hesitation
Author
Discussion

Loach1

Original Poster:

437 posts

170 months

Friday 10th January 2014
quotequote all
Well, I finally got a chance to take my new S1 with the 2.9 out on the road this morning. Overall it had fantastic power and felt quicker than the 2.8, but it has an annoying hesitation when just going off idle to get going again. It seems like fuel starvation, but in general it smells very rich and pops at idle, so I'm wondering if the fuel regulator might not be working correctly at idle, and the engine is getting too much fuel when I open the throttle, then evening out as more air is available?

When I got the car it wouldn't start due to fouled plugs, caused by rich running. I replaced the faulty coolant temp sensor and now it seems to be happier and starts easily.

Has anyone experienced anything similar?

Cheers,
David

DamianS3

1,805 posts

211 months

Friday 10th January 2014
quotequote all
It could be an AFM issue ? Are they clean and in good order?

Likewise I would check and clean ISCV.

Mine runs great and pops with the best on overrun not at idle.

If you can afford a rr session could help diagnose

Damian

Loach1

Original Poster:

437 posts

170 months

Friday 10th January 2014
quotequote all
Thanks Damian. I did take the AFMs off and look at them, but I wasn't exactly sure what to look for, other than cleanliness and smooth operation, which were OK. I haven't cleaned the ISCV yet, but I did unplug it to make sure it was doing something and that the minimum air screw hadn't been messed with. Unplugged, the engine stumbled a lot but kept running, which I think is correct. It does hold a good idle cold and warm with no fluttering so it seems to be OK, but I will give it a clean tomorrow.

One reason I suspect the FPR is because it makes a noise when the engine hesitates. It's a quiet clicking noise, and might be normal but I can't think of a good reason why a regulator would make any noise at all unless the diaphragm has become stiff.

I was hoping that it would be something to do with the ECU and by driving it a bit it would re-learn how to run smoothly. I only drove about 10 miles today in a variety of situations, but it didn't clear up at all.

DamianS3

1,805 posts

211 months

Friday 10th January 2014
quotequote all
Try google there are a few stories that mention overfueling and clicking fpr.

Let us know what you find I don't remember hearing mine click but could be wrong it's noisy there.

Loach1

Original Poster:

437 posts

170 months

Saturday 18th January 2014
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An update on my hesitation issue.....

I replaced the FPR today, but it made no difference at all. I unplugged the TPS and it revved smoothly, so just to make sure it wasn't just because the ECU had gone into limp mode, I disconnected one of the MAFs, reconnected the TPS and the hesitation returned. Next, I removed the TPS but left it plugged in and it revved smoothly. I don't have an analogue meter so I can't really test the TPS fully, although the min and max voltages are correct. I sprayed a ton of WD40 into it and will leave it overnight to see if it helps.

AutoAndy

2,270 posts

244 months

Saturday 18th January 2014
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Interested to know how you get on David, as I may have the similar problem....

Since I don't know what all those letters stand for I a forced just to drive fast to avoid low speed running...if only there was another way...


glenrobbo

40,450 posts

179 months

Saturday 18th January 2014
quotequote all
AutoAndy said:
Interested to know how you get on David, as I may have the similar problem....

Since I don't know what all those letters stand for I am forced just to drive fast to avoid low speed running...if only there was another way...
biggrin
Not sure if serious... wink but just in case:

FPR = Fuel pressure regulator.
TPS = Throttle position sensor ( throttle pot )
ISCV = Idle speed control valve
AFM = Air flow meter ( same thing as MAF below )
MAF = Mass air flow ( meter/ sensor )
WD40 = Utterly magical wonder spray stuff.

HTH

HTH = Hope this helps smile

Edited by glenrobbo on Saturday 18th January 09:42

phillpot

17,508 posts

212 months

Saturday 18th January 2014
quotequote all

WD40 = horrible stuff, never use it anywhere near your car

MAF = nice chap, likes driving long distances


HTH wink

Top Gear TVR

2,251 posts

183 months

Saturday 18th January 2014
quotequote all
I too get this but mainly when not yet warm. Will try today / tomorrow once I have tidied up a trail of destruction I have left behind me in the garage, hallway and conservatory (apparently?)

Sandgrounder

564 posts

173 months

Saturday 18th January 2014
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I'm confused Mike, what's wrong with WD40?

glenrobbo

40,450 posts

179 months

Saturday 18th January 2014
quotequote all
Sandgrounder said:
I'm confused Mike, what's wrong with WD40?
Let me guess: -
It can sometimes be far too ironic to use on your car ?

Loach1

Original Poster:

437 posts

170 months

Saturday 18th January 2014
quotequote all
Well, it seems to have improved a bit. Either that or my technique is improving and I'm making up for the hesitation. It goes like the clappers once it's past the flat spot, so the TPS is mostly OK. Next step will be buying a cheapo analog meter to see if I can see what's going on before buying another part that I don't need.

AutoAndy

2,270 posts

244 months

Saturday 18th January 2014
quotequote all
said:
HTH = Hope this helps smile

Edited by glenrobbo on Saturday 18th January 09:42
TIWSAIWVU........

Thanks, I was serious and it was very useful wink

glenrobbo

40,450 posts

179 months

Saturday 18th January 2014
quotequote all
Just a thought David, does your throttle lever have a J- slot or the modified straight slot to improve throt tle response?

Loach1

Original Poster:

437 posts

170 months

Saturday 18th January 2014
quotequote all
glenrobbo said:
Just a thought David, does your throttle lever have a J- slot or the modified straight slot to improve throt tle response?
Glen,
I think you're on the right track. There are two butterflies on this engine and I would think they should be synchronized, but they are off by quite a bit. The hesitation is in the range where the first throttle opens, but the cam slot hasn't started to open the second throttle, which has the TPS attached to it. I have been messing with the roller position and it seems to be making some difference, but the slot profile is quite flat to begin with so I can't get both butterflies to synch properly. If I move the butterfly shaft with the TPS on it, everything is good, so I think the TPS is fine after all. I need to figure out what's not right and adjust accordingly, but I can't find any guidelines on the web......

Is the slot modification a 2.8 thing, or 2.9? I'm going to go and see if it has signs of being tweaked.

ETA: I'm full of it. Both butterflies are on the same shaft, so they will be synchronized of course! I found that the revving was normal when I took out the crank breather hose, so it's gagging for air. The breather hose is actually heater hose and is completely collapsed, so I'm going to get some stouter hose and see what happens....

Edited by Loach1 on Saturday 18th January 18:50

glenrobbo

40,450 posts

179 months

Saturday 18th January 2014
quotequote all
It's a 2.9 mod. I remember seeing it on here a while ago.

It may have been Rob ( GriffinR ) or Mike ( Phillpot ) ???

Makes it smoother lower down the rev range I believe.

Edit: David, search on here for " serious rookie error" a 2011 thread, page 2 should be helpful.

Edited by glenrobbo on Saturday 18th January 19:05

Loach1

Original Poster:

437 posts

170 months

Saturday 18th January 2014
quotequote all
Thanks for that Glen. It looks easy enough to do, I'll add it to the list.

Good news - I replaced the breather hose and it fixed the problem! The shop didn't have vacuum hose so I still have a heater hose for now, which will probably collapse very soon because the vacuum is pretty high (low?). That was a bit of a head-scratcher, but a nice cheap solution is always welcome. Time to go and see if the shop on the other side of town has 1/2" vacuum hose.......

glenrobbo

40,450 posts

179 months

Saturday 18th January 2014
quotequote all
Loach1 said:
Thanks for that Glen. It looks easy enough to do, I'll add it to the list.

Good news - I replaced the breather hose and it fixed the problem! The shop didn't have vacuum hose so I still have a heater hose for now, which will probably collapse very soon because the vacuum is pretty high (low?). That was a bit of a head-scratcher, but a nice cheap solution is always welcome. Time to go and see if the shop on the other side of town has 1/2" vacuum hose.......
scratchchin
I believe there's a custom shop near Long Beach CA that has some in stock drivingbiggrin

Or you could stick a coil spring down the bore of the hose......

Edited by glenrobbo on Saturday 18th January 20:06

phillpot

17,508 posts

212 months

Sunday 19th January 2014
quotequote all
Sandgrounder said:
I'm confused Mike, what's wrong with WD40?
As a moisture dispersant it has its uses

As a lubricant it dries out very quickly

As a penetrating fluid there are far better products

Basically it is a "get out of trouble quick fix" not a long term solution .....all IMHO wink

phillpot

17,508 posts

212 months

Sunday 19th January 2014
quotequote all
glenrobbo said:
It's a 2.9 mod. I remember seeing it on here a while ago.

Makes it smoother lower down the rev range I believe.
Really has nothing to do with how the engine runs, it is purely a modification to the throttle linkage, but does make the throttle response "snappier"

This is a standard one.....



There were a few from the factory that are straight, or that type can be modified, not the clearest picture....