Fuel tank removal

[Terrence79]

Now I've finally got the exhaust off, removed the pipes and wires, body mounting bolts and the 4 bolts holding the cradle to the chassis- should it now be free to drop? Can't help thinking I need to disconnect something around the fuel filler neck too but the bible doesn't seem to be much help as to what s up at that end?

Tom

[phillpot]

Yep, have a look in the boot, pull all bits of carpet out the way and you'll find the filler neck, should be self explanatory, couple of jubilee clips.

[Griffinr]

And the tank flange snags on the bottom fixing for the boot lid gas strut, so look out for that.
Rob.

[greymrj]

There are 6 bolts to find. 4 hold the cradle to the chassis. 2 from the boot through the cross plate at the back of the cradle. The filler pipe sleeve needs to be separated by undoing both jubilee clips and pulled up into the boot. There is a small return pipe high up on the front left side of the tank which is easy to miss.

I wonder what state the swirlpot on the base of the fuel tank is in?

[astonmos]

Did mine recently.

If you are replacing seals and locking rings these work a treat and much cheaper than most places I looked.

http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/parts.aspx?searchtex...

ARA1501 FUEL TANK SENDER LOCKING RING
ARA1502 FUEL TANK SENDER SEAL

[Terrence79]

Success!!

[Deeman]

Well done - assume that's the back door to the garage - looks a bit tight otherwise!

[Griffinr]

I wonder whether TVR changed the tank material on later cars as when I took mine off a couple of years ago there was absolutely no corrosion or sediment in it.
Rob.

[Terrence79]

Nope- that's the front.....and it is very very tight as the garage isn't inline with the passage down the side of the house (we're talking less than 1/2" to play either side with when the mirrors are folder in!)

[Terrence79]

I did have a couple of advisories about the fuel cap not sealing properly and when I emptied it there was a lot of water in the tank which won't have helped the corrosion

Tom

[Terrence79]

Last bit of fuel from the tank after being left to separate for a night



The water would be at the bottom right? - no wonder it wasn't running well!!

[greymrj]

Hi Tom, got a pretty similar situation when I took my tank off a couple of years ago. It wasnt running right because muck kept filling the pump. I cleaned the tank as thoroughly as I could, and fitted a new pump. It didnt take long before it was as bad as before. I fitted a very special in line filter from Demon Tweeks, between tank and pump. This was expensive but has a fairly cheap removable cartridge. It worked....for quite a few miles, then the faultering started again. Took the filter out and was amazed by how much it had collected, changed the cartridge. 350 miles, changed again, similar amount! Twice more, similar amounts...no sign of the rust scales diminishing. Had to face it that the tank would have to come out. I researched the options and decided to take it to Hartlepool Radiator for restoration and coating.
The tank is now out. I cut the bottom off the swirl pot, not a pretty sight!
The tank is going to Hartlepool next week.
I have agreed to do an article for SPRINT on this restoration as it is dramatically cheaper than a new tank. As they say 'Watch this Space'!

[Terrence79]

I took a detour on the way back from work yesterday to Bromyard and picked up some of this:

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pCode=0...

From Holden vintage and classic so I'm going to give it a go first hopefully it will do the trick but if not the a refurb or new tank it will have to be!

Tom

[Terrence79]

Done a bit more today - not much as the suns out!

Inside of the tank from the sender



Unsurprisingly not so good here!

[greymrj]

Ahhhhah, so that is what the bottom of the swirl pot is supposed to look like! Mine appears to have rusted through and been repaired but there is no evidence it ever had an access hole to that filter. The filter on mine had started to break up anyway, can you see enough of yours to check if it has holes in it or the gauze is blocked?. How will you get the filter out so it doesnt get blocked by POR15? Looks like Hartlepool Radiator are going to remake the swirl pot with a drain hole. I am not fitting an in-tank filter but I do have a good in-line one outside the tank which is easier to check and service.

[Terrence79]

I could see holes in the bottom of the filter so no point it staying in there- gave it a yank with some pliers but I think the bottom section is still in there- will have to find another filter to use when it all goes back together!

[url]

|http://thumbsnap.com/rWYA3bQR[/url]

[Terrence79]

I could see holes in the bottom of the filter so no point it staying in there- gave it a yank with some pliers but I think the bottom section is still in there- will have to find another filter to use when it all goes back together!

[url]

|http://thumbsnap.com/rWYA3bQR[/url]

[greymrj]

Yep, filter on mine had started to break up as well.
Unfortunately I had to cut the bottom of the swirl pot out to get at mine. The filter had several sections starting to break out and others blocked.

My tank is now with Hartlepool Radiator for restoration. They are a small specialist company using an American system under licence. They are also capable of making a new, mild steel, tank, lined with their special process for what looks like a very good price. More details to follow.

[Terrence79]

The tank sealer is now curing in the conservatory for 96 hours so I can start buying the new bits before bolting it back into the car, Can anyone recommend a fuel filter to be mounted external of the tank to replace the plastic gauze one that fell apart on the inside?

Tom

[phillpot]

Some filter suggestions towards the end of this thread