Will not start
Discussion
Gents,
Been awhile since i have been on here...got the car to the states, drove her and now she will not start. I have fuel, spark and air. After some searching, seems maybe the relay. Does anyone know if the big purple one is the culprit? Any help is needed...as of right now...she is dead
Oh and she will turn over and the fuel pump is working...with good pressure!!
Thanks in advance...
Been awhile since i have been on here...got the car to the states, drove her and now she will not start. I have fuel, spark and air. After some searching, seems maybe the relay. Does anyone know if the big purple one is the culprit? Any help is needed...as of right now...she is dead
Oh and she will turn over and the fuel pump is working...with good pressure!!
Thanks in advance...
Justin, when I had similar problems with my 2.9 (I know you have a 2.8), it turned out to be fouled plugs. Although I had a spark, it wasn't enough to light the fire. A good wire brushing and off she went.
The 2.8 injection is very basic, as long as the pump runs, it is ready to fuel. Cold starts on a cold day really benefit from the cold start injector, which uses the green relay and thermotime switch IIRC. You can fire it into a Mason jar to see if it is working - it should spray for a second every few seconds (sorry, I don't remember exactly). If the engine fires then stalls, give the idle mixture screw a 1/4 turn clockwise to richen it up a bit. This is the one on the fuel meter head next to the rubber plenum where you need a long 3mm Allen key. The only other thing is ignition timing, but I can't imagine how that would have moved.
Where are you and the car now? Put a pin on the map if you get a chance!
The 2.8 injection is very basic, as long as the pump runs, it is ready to fuel. Cold starts on a cold day really benefit from the cold start injector, which uses the green relay and thermotime switch IIRC. You can fire it into a Mason jar to see if it is working - it should spray for a second every few seconds (sorry, I don't remember exactly). If the engine fires then stalls, give the idle mixture screw a 1/4 turn clockwise to richen it up a bit. This is the one on the fuel meter head next to the rubber plenum where you need a long 3mm Allen key. The only other thing is ignition timing, but I can't imagine how that would have moved.
Where are you and the car now? Put a pin on the map if you get a chance!
I had this problem the other day, i was sorting out my light panel under the dash and then it wouldn't start.
I went through all the fuses they were fine and then see a tiny wire under the steering column that had pulled apart from another connector!. I couldn't believe it. Plugged it in and it started up no probs. So if you have been fiddling around them wires near the steering wheel behind the dash, take a close look at the wires. You never know.
I went through all the fuses they were fine and then see a tiny wire under the steering column that had pulled apart from another connector!. I couldn't believe it. Plugged it in and it started up no probs. So if you have been fiddling around them wires near the steering wheel behind the dash, take a close look at the wires. You never know.
So...changed all the ignition over, minus the coil, and got her to run very rough. She stalled out and then when I tried to restart the car the vac line right in front if the intake plenum blows off. I put it back on and then the intake like blows off. I change the plugs 180 and nothing, not even a start...just turning over...I also put in a fuel stabilizer...and nothing still...I have tried altering with the fuel to air mixture and still no go...
Justin,
Sounds like it's backfiring.
Going back to basics, have you altered the position of the distributor? ( Timing too far advanced/retarded )
Are the plug leads routed in the correct firing order?
Have you checked that the static ign timing is set for No.1 cylinder to fire at the correct degree of advance before TDC when both inlet & exhaust valves are closed on that cylinder? The manual will give you the correct figure.
Have you checked the distributor cap for cleanliness /signs of tracking/ erosion of eletrodes & rotor arm? Is the centre carbon electrode in good condition & the spring still present & working?
Have you checked the condition & gaps of the plugs?
Have you altered the mixture adjustment & caused it to be too rich?
Did you check the 3" intake hose to the plenum for holes/ leaks?
Are the valve clearances ( tappets ) correctly set?
Have you thought about calling in a good mechanic?
ETA. I think in the States, the engine is similar to that fitted in the Ford Merkur 2.8i but without all the emissions gubbins.
( Sierra in UK )
Sounds like it's backfiring.
Going back to basics, have you altered the position of the distributor? ( Timing too far advanced/retarded )
Are the plug leads routed in the correct firing order?
Have you checked that the static ign timing is set for No.1 cylinder to fire at the correct degree of advance before TDC when both inlet & exhaust valves are closed on that cylinder? The manual will give you the correct figure.
Have you checked the distributor cap for cleanliness /signs of tracking/ erosion of eletrodes & rotor arm? Is the centre carbon electrode in good condition & the spring still present & working?
Have you checked the condition & gaps of the plugs?
Have you altered the mixture adjustment & caused it to be too rich?
Did you check the 3" intake hose to the plenum for holes/ leaks?
Are the valve clearances ( tappets ) correctly set?
Have you thought about calling in a good mechanic?
ETA. I think in the States, the engine is similar to that fitted in the Ford Merkur 2.8i but without all the emissions gubbins.
( Sierra in UK )
Edited by glenrobbo on Thursday 13th March 11:14
The key to this riddle is to find out why there is positive pressure in the intake - at idle it should be a pretty high vacuum. Sticking/burnt valve or backfiring are all possibilities. To check valves, head to Harbor Freight and get a cheapo compression tester (~$10), take out all of the plugs to save killing your starter motor, then test each cylinder. Write down the numbers for future reference. If you have little or no pressure, you have a sticking or burnt valve on that cylinder. As Glen said, it could be backfiring. While you are at Harbor Freight, pick up a cheapo timing light, remove the distributor vacuum hose and check your ignition timing.
These are easy tests that will take the guessing out of the situation, cost you $25 or so and save you having to pay someone to do the same.
Glen - the Merkur XR4ti (Sierra) only came in 4 cyl turbo guise over here. The Merkur Scorpio had the later 2.9 V6, which is the same as the later TVR S engine. The 2.8 Cologne can be found in various Fords of the era, but fitted with a carb or throttle body injection only. There are shops familiar with the old Bosch CIS, mainly the ones that specialise in European cars (Volvo, Porsche, Alfa, etc), but they tend to be quite expensive because of their niche.
These are easy tests that will take the guessing out of the situation, cost you $25 or so and save you having to pay someone to do the same.
Glen - the Merkur XR4ti (Sierra) only came in 4 cyl turbo guise over here. The Merkur Scorpio had the later 2.9 V6, which is the same as the later TVR S engine. The 2.8 Cologne can be found in various Fords of the era, but fitted with a carb or throttle body injection only. There are shops familiar with the old Bosch CIS, mainly the ones that specialise in European cars (Volvo, Porsche, Alfa, etc), but they tend to be quite expensive because of their niche.
Thanks David, I stand corrected ( I did say "I think.... " but obviously that could be dangerous 
).
There is a good article about the Bosch K- Jetronic fuel injection system as fitted to the 2.8 V6 Cologne in a perfomance Ford magazine somewhere if you google the interweb.
But I don't think Justin's problem lies that deep.
If he follows the sage advice on here, ( and mine as well
), I reckon he should soon have it running.
It seems to have been a gradual decline in starting performance, as he posted a while back in UK that he was having problems.
That's why I suspect valve clearances may possibly be a factor.
Hope it's sorted soon anyway. Spring is on its' way
).There is a good article about the Bosch K- Jetronic fuel injection system as fitted to the 2.8 V6 Cologne in a perfomance Ford magazine somewhere if you google the interweb.
But I don't think Justin's problem lies that deep.
If he follows the sage advice on here, ( and mine as well
), I reckon he should soon have it running.It seems to have been a gradual decline in starting performance, as he posted a while back in UK that he was having problems.
That's why I suspect valve clearances may possibly be a factor.
Hope it's sorted soon anyway. Spring is on its' way
Gents...to say the least, or maybe the most, I have checked everything...exepct the compression and the air/fuel mixture [i messed with it, but may have went to far one way or the other ]. It maybe a sad day, but she may have to go to a pro to figure it out. The positive pressure in the manifold puzzles me as well. I got her to start last night, but again, very low revs and for just a few seconds until the pressure in the intake built up and stalled.
]. It maybe a sad day, but she may have to go to a pro to figure it out. The positive pressure in the manifold puzzles me as well. I got her to start last night, but again, very low revs and for just a few seconds until the pressure in the intake built up and stalled.jmccrary said:
ok, did a compression test tonight and found the issue:
1 - 30
2 - 40
3 - 20
4 - 110
5 - 110
6 - 70
So the question is...valves adjusting or piston rings?
I am concerned with 1-3 really...
OK, one step at a time.1 - 30
2 - 40
3 - 20
4 - 110
5 - 110
6 - 70
So the question is...valves adjusting or piston rings?
I am concerned with 1-3 really...
I suggest you start by setting the valve clearances ( tappets ) correctly, then do another compression test.
Hopefully the cyl. pressures will be restored & the valves and/or their seats aren't too badly eroded or burnt, or it's a head off job to sort it.
If the compression figures are still way down, the cylinder bores can be checked using a cheap or borrowed boroscope. Any piston ring break-up or blow-by will cause scoring of the bores.
Gummed-up sticking rings can sometimes be freed off by squirting a bit of Redex or similar into each plug hole & leaving to soak for a day or two. Then, with all the spark plugs removed, turn the engine over on the starter, Place some rags to catch all the muck blown out. Then replace the plugs & start it up if you can.This will generate an awful lot of smoke when you first start it up, but will gradually clear.
Let us know how you get on.
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff