Numpty could do with advice
Discussion
Chaps - I know my S is sagging somewhat at the back. I also know I've got adjustable shocks. However, I think i'm being stupid because I can only budge the top collar OffSide Rear by 1/4 turn (and I've been really clobbering it) There is no grub screw retaining the top collar either. What the norm here? To adjust the top collar do people use spring compressors (I am able to twist the spring so its not under huge tension) - is it the residual spring pressure making it so tough to move the top collar? I've soaked it overnight in penetrating oil, but it hasn't improved much. Or am I barking up the wrong tree completely? Should I take the shocks off anyway and replace the springs? Or the whole unit (which is expensive). My thoughts were if I could raise the top collar by some way it would lift the ride height (if it does, how far to people go - does it look about right?). Would turning the pressure up in the damper raise the height also? I feel this should be a simple job, which a simpleton is turning into a tough one. Any advice welcome. Pete (always doing my bit to ask the stupid questions) 
Hi
In my experience these always stick. Make sure you have loosened the tiny allen headed grub screw in the collar first if its still there. I usually take the pressure off the spring with a spring compressor. Then loosen the collar a bit, clean the threads as best you can and plenty of oil. Remember a very small adjustment can have quite a dramatic effect as you are increasing the preload on quite a heavy spring. I.E only a couple of turns at a time. Hope this helps.. Andy
In my experience these always stick. Make sure you have loosened the tiny allen headed grub screw in the collar first if its still there. I usually take the pressure off the spring with a spring compressor. Then loosen the collar a bit, clean the threads as best you can and plenty of oil. Remember a very small adjustment can have quite a dramatic effect as you are increasing the preload on quite a heavy spring. I.E only a couple of turns at a time. Hope this helps.. Andy
Pete
That does look strange! Usually you only have one collar - the lower one is doing nothing at all. I have found with my AVO dampers (don't know the make of yours but they look similar) that you cannot shift the collar until the car is jacked up so the weight is not resting on the spring. Turning the knob to increase rebound damping will not affect static ride height. Given that it is only two bolts to remove the damper it may be worth you examining it on the bench. If you can free the collar and wind it down the unit the spring should not be under compression and can be removed. You can then check damping at different settings on the knurled adjuster. If it is sloppy when wound up then the damper may need a rebuild. AVO do a recon service at a reasonable price if they are there make.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Tony
That does look strange! Usually you only have one collar - the lower one is doing nothing at all. I have found with my AVO dampers (don't know the make of yours but they look similar) that you cannot shift the collar until the car is jacked up so the weight is not resting on the spring. Turning the knob to increase rebound damping will not affect static ride height. Given that it is only two bolts to remove the damper it may be worth you examining it on the bench. If you can free the collar and wind it down the unit the spring should not be under compression and can be removed. You can then check damping at different settings on the knurled adjuster. If it is sloppy when wound up then the damper may need a rebuild. AVO do a recon service at a reasonable price if they are there make.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Tony
Guys thanks for advice - The bottom collar, I turned this to bottom- I think its intended to be a locking nut to the top collar. There is no grub screw in the hole, so i'm guessing Andy, that the threads are full of crud or rust or both. I guess the spring compressors will take the remainder of tension out and if its still properly stuck, the only way will be to take the damper unit off. Must admit I didn't appreciate just a couple of threads would make that much difference in the ride height (good to know). If I end up having to take the whole shock off, assume with the car jacked up (as it is now) and spring compressors on, the unit should unbolt and be ok to remove without exploding in my face! (I'll be taking care with the spring compressors to ensure located properly and ensure the suspension arm is supported from below.
Hi
Yes the damper spring unit comes off as a piece so no danger of explosions! I always adjust mine on the bench. Can only assume that crud has got into the threads if its stuck. Be careful with the spring compressors as there isn't a lot of room between the coils for them to engage well. You definately don't want the compressor to slip. A bit of gentle heat to the collar on the bench might help to ease it off. You will however need a big vice to hold everything. Andy
Yes the damper spring unit comes off as a piece so no danger of explosions! I always adjust mine on the bench. Can only assume that crud has got into the threads if its stuck. Be careful with the spring compressors as there isn't a lot of room between the coils for them to engage well. You definately don't want the compressor to slip. A bit of gentle heat to the collar on the bench might help to ease it off. You will however need a big vice to hold everything. Andy
Get a couple of cargo straps and use the "Phillpot Method" 
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
With the car jacked up there should be very little (if any) weight on that ring. I'd be inclined to get the shocker off and on the bench... lots of "Plusgas" and if that fails some heat, and do you have a proper spanner?
Mike - yep got the C spanner. Its taken a right hammering! Another night of plus gas on the way - tried some heat and it did move (a tiny bit) - just don't like blow torches near to fuel tanks! (by the way, great idea on the strap to act as a spring clamp - works a treat!!) Stewart - agree the threads look better below - I was hoping that whacking it down even one ring might get it onto a better thread - seems its having none of it. Had a look at getting the whole shock off and in true TVR style the top shock retaining bolt and nut are a bit of a b
d to get to (especially the nut behind, as it right up against the body tub.) Reckon that's the route I'm going to have to take though...
d to get to (especially the nut behind, as it right up against the body tub.) Reckon that's the route I'm going to have to take though...Well - Guys thanks for all the collective advice. Mike the strap coil compressor is a good one. After 6 nights of soaking in plus gas and bashing soaking and bashing and blow torching - today at 3pm it finally comes free!!! Hallelluyah. Andy your right - I racked it up about 5 threads - big difference to ride height. No exhaust slamming on the ground now! Now off to continue on the list of jobs. Oh by the way, never done it myself, but where the filler for the gearbox on the V8 - as since the eurotour, my gear changes are getting difficult. Might be the gear box oil?
Deeman said:
Well - Guys thanks for all the collective advice. Mike the strap coil compressor is a good one. After 6 nights of soaking in plus gas and bashing soaking and bashing and blow torching - today at 3pm it finally comes free!!! Hallelluyah. Andy your right - I racked it up about 5 threads - big difference to ride height. No exhaust slamming on the ground now! Now off to continue on the list of jobs. Oh by the way, never done it myself, but where the filler for the gearbox on the V8 - as since the eurotour, my gear changes are getting difficult. Might be the gear box oil?
PeteThe filler is on the right side of the gearbox. The drain plug is below it and to the front of the car. You will need some sort of syringe to fill the box. The best oil to use (I have found) is http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/gear-oil/...
You can get it from Halfrauds too.
This year my gearbox was silky smooth, my friend Colin, who had not driven the car since last year, commented on how smooth the gear change was after struggling a bit with it last year.
Hi Paul - thanks for the advice on oil. If yours works so well, I'll certainly follow suit. I don't believe there are any other issue at play here to be honest.
I don't have a rover haynes manual - is that on the right (looking to the front of the car or looking to the rear?). The "Bible" doesn't really show it or describe where it is. Also - do you tend to drain right out (assume to remove any swarfd) or just top up?
Pete
I don't have a rover haynes manual - is that on the right (looking to the front of the car or looking to the rear?). The "Bible" doesn't really show it or describe where it is. Also - do you tend to drain right out (assume to remove any swarfd) or just top up?
Pete
Deeman said:
Paul - do these photos from the Rover Forum look right? I believe I should have an LT77 Gearbox.
So first Photo Drain plug and second filler?
PeteSo first Photo Drain plug and second filler?
I can't see the filler on that gearbox. It is normally on the drivers side of the box, though I have seen pictures of it on the left hand side of the LT77 used in an SD1.
Take a look on the right hand side between the gearbox and the chassis, you are looking for a square headed bolt.
I normally drain it every two years and top up in between.
Gearbox Exactly as per photo Mike - Decided to drain and change in the end - glad I did. The gearbox oil came out really black. The magnetised sump plugs had a lot of metal attached and plenty of crud in the drained oil. Just hope it hasn't done too much damage to the box. Onto the next job!...Thanks for the help. Pete
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