Help Please - Top & Bottom Front Ball Joints Removal
Discussion
Hi all - long time no post 
I've finally got the chassis welded and am on with the painting so, hopefully, will be starting putting things back together early next year
I want to remove & replace the top & bottom ball joints (as per photos below) - please can someone tell me how the hell I remove the old ones - is it just brute force
or is there a 'proper' way to remove them???


Many thanks in advance.
Cheers
Jaye

I've finally got the chassis welded and am on with the painting so, hopefully, will be starting putting things back together early next year
I want to remove & replace the top & bottom ball joints (as per photos below) - please can someone tell me how the hell I remove the old ones - is it just brute force
or is there a 'proper' way to remove them???

Many thanks in advance.
Cheers
Jaye
Hi Jaye,
Easiest when on the car with the balljoints under a bit of tension.
Hold a hammer on one side of the joint & clout the opposite side with another.
The shock will USUALLY free the taper.
If not, beg steal or borrow a balljoint splitter. The scissor type are better than the fork type. Wind up the balljoint splitter bolt so there's a bit of pressure, if it doesn't part the joint, a tap on the said bolt will usually free it.
Have fun
Easiest when on the car with the balljoints under a bit of tension.
Hold a hammer on one side of the joint & clout the opposite side with another.

The shock will USUALLY free the taper.
If not, beg steal or borrow a balljoint splitter. The scissor type are better than the fork type. Wind up the balljoint splitter bolt so there's a bit of pressure, if it doesn't part the joint, a tap on the said bolt will usually free it.
Have fun
As Glen says, it's all about brute force!
Strike good and hard where indicated with a decent sized hammer and if possible hold an even bigger (lump) hammer the other side. The taper housing will distort minutely, releasing the joint.
We're talking a real good whack here, not tippy tappy
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|http://thumbsnap.com/3B6ttxUZ[/url]
Strike good and hard where indicated with a decent sized hammer and if possible hold an even bigger (lump) hammer the other side. The taper housing will distort minutely, releasing the joint.
We're talking a real good whack here, not tippy tappy

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Undoing the rusted bolts was much harder. Ended up drilling some of them out.
tting the shoulder of the ball joint.
Never use force. Get a bigger hammer 

