Grinding Gears
Discussion
Hello All,
A (hopefully) minor problem just started today. The car is getting more difficult to change gear with - bit of grinding of the synchro that sort of thing - particularly into reverse. The stick feels just a bit stiffer than usual as well.
For background - the engine was rebuilt recently and if I remember correctly, I think the clutch was replaced at the same time.
I was wondering if it could be something as simple as the clutch cable slipping ?
Oh - and Happy Xmas all ! I don't type stuff that often here - but this is a damn fine forum - thanks for helping through a great year of S ownership,
Cheers,
WG
A (hopefully) minor problem just started today. The car is getting more difficult to change gear with - bit of grinding of the synchro that sort of thing - particularly into reverse. The stick feels just a bit stiffer than usual as well.
For background - the engine was rebuilt recently and if I remember correctly, I think the clutch was replaced at the same time.
I was wondering if it could be something as simple as the clutch cable slipping ?
Oh - and Happy Xmas all ! I don't type stuff that often here - but this is a damn fine forum - thanks for helping through a great year of S ownership,
Cheers,
WG
won't be the clutch cable - the clutch is hydraulic!
Check that there is fluid in the reservoir. Check for leaks along the pipe and at the slave cylinder - clutch / brake fluid has a characteristic smell that is different from engine oil, if you're not sure where any oil is coming from.
Check the adjustment of the actuation rod between the cylinder and the clutch lever in the side of the gearbox - if the clutch has bedded in slightly then it might not be disengaging and "dragging" a bit. The rod shouldn't be very loose.
Next step would be to bleed the clutch - I think pies' site at www.tvrsseries.com explains how to change a cylinder but maybe not how to bleed it. At least you'll see all the bits! Note - mine is different from the one shown on that site, IIRC. Make sure the bleed nipple is at the TOP - people sometimes fit it upside down cos the bleed nipple is easier to reach, but you can't get all the air out unless the nipple is at the top.
That's all I can think of at the mo, let us know how it goes.
Check that there is fluid in the reservoir. Check for leaks along the pipe and at the slave cylinder - clutch / brake fluid has a characteristic smell that is different from engine oil, if you're not sure where any oil is coming from.
Check the adjustment of the actuation rod between the cylinder and the clutch lever in the side of the gearbox - if the clutch has bedded in slightly then it might not be disengaging and "dragging" a bit. The rod shouldn't be very loose.
Next step would be to bleed the clutch - I think pies' site at www.tvrsseries.com explains how to change a cylinder but maybe not how to bleed it. At least you'll see all the bits! Note - mine is different from the one shown on that site, IIRC. Make sure the bleed nipple is at the TOP - people sometimes fit it upside down cos the bleed nipple is easier to reach, but you can't get all the air out unless the nipple is at the top.
That's all I can think of at the mo, let us know how it goes.
tvrgit said:
You know, sometimes I wonder if I have turned invisible... 
>> Edited by tvrgit on Wednesday 22 December 22:38
Who said that?
For some reason mine hates 1st and reverse. I've found the way to get it in is to put it in 4th then 2nd then 1st or reverse. Since I'm usually going pretty slowly whenever I need reverse its not a problem.
Someone did explain why in particular 4th is a good thing to do, but the details were a little too detailed for me. Works though..
Don't just bleed the clutch, change the fluid. Recently changed mine as the shift was getting very baulky, and it is now much better. Local Tiv dealer said fluid should be changed every year. When you look at the slave cyliners proximity to the exhaust, it makes you think all that heat can't be doing the fluid much good. Going to change it once a year now!
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