Discussion
Hi folks,
After being messed around for some time by work I'm now in a position where I can resume a concerted effort to track down an S and join the great S community you have here on PH! So does anyone have any tips about acquiring an S2-S4C? I've had a look over at the tvrsseries.com website (which was how I originally found this forum) but the info seems to be 7-10 years old; does it all still hold true or are there other gotchas I should be looking out for too?
Greatly appreciate any help you could provide
After being messed around for some time by work I'm now in a position where I can resume a concerted effort to track down an S and join the great S community you have here on PH! So does anyone have any tips about acquiring an S2-S4C? I've had a look over at the tvrsseries.com website (which was how I originally found this forum) but the info seems to be 7-10 years old; does it all still hold true or are there other gotchas I should be looking out for too?
Greatly appreciate any help you could provide
You will get people replying to this who have a million posts on here and much more detailed knowledge than me so I'll keep my comments very short.
Chassis condition is of prime importance,a professional restoration of a rusty chassis costing £4-5k.
Buy the best example you can afford,really good (but not concours) cars can be had for only about £6k,whereas if you buy a £3k car it will likely cost far,far more than another £3k to get it really good unless you have the skills to do ALL the work yourself and avoid labour charges.
Over to the others for the detail...
Chassis condition is of prime importance,a professional restoration of a rusty chassis costing £4-5k.
Buy the best example you can afford,really good (but not concours) cars can be had for only about £6k,whereas if you buy a £3k car it will likely cost far,far more than another £3k to get it really good unless you have the skills to do ALL the work yourself and avoid labour charges.
Over to the others for the detail...
Chassis' the most important thing. Either buy a car very cheaply and prepare to spend out on getting the chassis right (and that means removing the body, to do it properly) or buy the very best you can, ideally one with a refurbished chassis (which'll probably work out slightly cheaper in the long run.
The later cars are built slightly better, and you'll pay more for a V8S (though it also provides more power, more speed and more fun). The S3/S4/V8S wider doors really do help getting in and out. S1 is probably the cheapest model you'll find, and suffers around 20bhp losses to the 2.9 engine fitted to the later models (the book figures lie!) On the plus side, it makes a unique noise and it's fair to say it probably carries a bit more character with it (pops and bangs a plenty from the exhaust!) Suspension more sorted on later cars too, but again, the S1 can prove fun to wrestle as you might an older classic.
Service history not as important as condition at this age, though it's nice to have it. Engines and gearboxes are tough. Really though, don't be fussy about colour and spec, just be fussy about condition.
On any of the cars, make sure you look at the chassis. Oh, and don't forget the chassis.
Chassis.
Chassis.
Cha............
The later cars are built slightly better, and you'll pay more for a V8S (though it also provides more power, more speed and more fun). The S3/S4/V8S wider doors really do help getting in and out. S1 is probably the cheapest model you'll find, and suffers around 20bhp losses to the 2.9 engine fitted to the later models (the book figures lie!) On the plus side, it makes a unique noise and it's fair to say it probably carries a bit more character with it (pops and bangs a plenty from the exhaust!) Suspension more sorted on later cars too, but again, the S1 can prove fun to wrestle as you might an older classic.
Service history not as important as condition at this age, though it's nice to have it. Engines and gearboxes are tough. Really though, don't be fussy about colour and spec, just be fussy about condition.
On any of the cars, make sure you look at the chassis. Oh, and don't forget the chassis.
Chassis.
Chassis.
Cha............
AutoAndy said:
Kitchski said:
... pay more for a V8S (though it also provides more power, more speed and more fun)...
all good points apart form this...."V8s more fun!"....not necessarily so ... 
...and he didn't ask about the S1 either
Edited by XK140 on Wednesday 18th February 13:27
XK140 said:
AutoAndy said:
Kitchski said:
... pay more for a V8S (though it also provides more power, more speed and more fun)...
all good points apart form this...."V8s more fun!"....not necessarily so ... ...and he didn't ask about the S1 either
Edited by XK140 on Wednesday 18th February 13:27
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned checking the chassis...
Spend as much as you can afford. There may be a scientific way of proving it but I'd guess that for every extra £1 you spend above the going rate for an average one, you'll save, in the long run, £3. And in the meantime you'll be driving it and having fun instead of being underneath it getting dirty.
All the 'S'ssssssss are fun! A well driven V6 will easily out run a cowardly driven V8
BUT and this is important, the V8 will ALWAYS repeat ALWAYS sound better. Even when it's running on 7
The arguments may commence...........now
All the 'S'ssssssss are fun! A well driven V6 will easily out run a cowardly driven V8
BUT and this is important, the V8 will ALWAYS repeat ALWAYS sound better. Even when it's running on 7 The arguments may commence...........now
The V6 is a nicer more exotic sound IMHO, compared in contemporary road tests to the best that Ferrari and others could produce. V8 does sound good but not as sophisticated as the 2.9.
Seriously, it is good to have a second, knowledgeable opinion on any prospective purchase and if the car is known to people on pistonheads then even better.
I disagree about not worrying about colour. I think that it is so subjectve. I would not enjoy my car as much if it was in certain other body and trim combinations.
Debate continues!
Seriously, it is good to have a second, knowledgeable opinion on any prospective purchase and if the car is known to people on pistonheads then even better.
I disagree about not worrying about colour. I think that it is so subjectve. I would not enjoy my car as much if it was in certain other body and trim combinations.
Debate continues!
ukflyboy said:
Hi folks,
Greatly appreciate any help you could provide
Look at lots .Greatly appreciate any help you could provide
Drive them if offered .
Fix a budget .
Be prepared to spend more than your budget .
Try a V8 if you can find one in budget .
Being Plastic they all look good in pictures , so be prepared to be disappointed .
The best cars will not necessarily be the most expensive .
Just a few thoughts .
PS I think there is something about the metal bit underneath but I cant recall what .
Be very careful, the intoxicating appeal of any S is powerful, very powerful. I went to see my first S and bought it there and then, for all the plans to look at several and ask advice. Once the engine roared into life I could only reach in my pocket for the cash, all sensible thoughts were lost ! Take someone with you to hold the wallet, and talk sense, your heart must not rule your head .... Find a current owner close to you and pick their brains, they are a friendly bunch always keen to help. Even coming along to a meet near you and ask questions. A list of events is available at the top of this S series page.
v8s4me said:
Sophisticated? 
It's a TVR, who gives a to
ss about sophisticated?
They both start with "S" - so does SMILE, which is what you will do every time you turn the key when you find the one with your name on it. It's a TVR, who gives a toss about sophisticated? Agree with everything said so far but above all look at a few if you can (especially a fair/good one and an immaculate one at monthly meets) even if they are not for sale to get a feel for what is worth what. I looked at 3 before I saw mine and all 3 were showing severe chassis rot and that was 20yrs ago! Admittedly the four were in the same dealership which was not a main dealer - colour did matter then as he had hidden the WHITE (rare colour, you can keep your reds and blues;)) one around the back, fool, that cost him £3K before we even started to barter. Full respray will be £1-3K if you don't like the colour.
V8/V6 debate will run for a while but if running cost is an issue, then V6 is the way to go - mine has been my every day runner since purchase and I get mid to high 20s mpg and spares mostly easily available
We all like talking about our cars and just maybe you'll find an unexpected one come up for offer! Not here though.
Which region are you in? Enjoy the search and hope to see a "newbie" post soon.
Edited by White S3 on Wednesday 18th February 21:51
I don't know where you live, but getting along to a meet I suggest will teach you loads. I met lots of folks whilst hunting and as each S is unique, each one you look at teaches you something new. And it's fun too !
Although I've only seen one car with the rare loo roll Accessory !
If you plan to keep it for a long time, then balance you head and heart. You want a car you love to gaze at, that gives you James May's fizzing feeling when you drive it. Personally I think you know when it's meant to be with a car - call me an old romantic if you will.
Colour is important - ish ! I was so only looking for red, blue or silver. So I got a green one !! How did that happen ? Chemistry when I saw the car that's what.
Price is only relatively important if you keep the car a long time imho. It's the joy the car brings that will last a lifetime. What's a few hundred pounds either way compared to that.
After the Chassis thing. I recommend making sure the roof fits. Mine doesn't and its a fight to fit every time. Drives me bonkers !
And I reinforce the idea of getting viewing help from an owner with mechanical know how. I believe Philpott has a very reasonable hourly rate !!
Although I've only seen one car with the rare loo roll Accessory !
If you plan to keep it for a long time, then balance you head and heart. You want a car you love to gaze at, that gives you James May's fizzing feeling when you drive it. Personally I think you know when it's meant to be with a car - call me an old romantic if you will.
Colour is important - ish ! I was so only looking for red, blue or silver. So I got a green one !! How did that happen ? Chemistry when I saw the car that's what.
Price is only relatively important if you keep the car a long time imho. It's the joy the car brings that will last a lifetime. What's a few hundred pounds either way compared to that.
After the Chassis thing. I recommend making sure the roof fits. Mine doesn't and its a fight to fit every time. Drives me bonkers !
And I reinforce the idea of getting viewing help from an owner with mechanical know how. I believe Philpott has a very reasonable hourly rate !!
Been a while since I last popped in here since swapping my S2 for a Tuscan in 2009, but here's a few thoughts from 15 years of S ownership:
Like everyone else has said , check the chassis and unless it looks pretty close to immaculate budget for having to do some restoration (~£2K for outriggers to a lot more for a full body off restoration). Don't forget to check suspension as well, especially rear trailing arms.
Interior - most of these cars leak to some extent, especially if left outside in all weathers for long periods of time. Re-carpeting could cost ~£500 to £1500 depending on who does it. Seat retrims are also not cheap.
Wheels - if there is any sign of corrosion under the lacquer (looks like white/grey staining)it cannot be removed without a full refurbishment of the wheel - options are then to paint (not the nicest aesthetically and least 'original'), re-lacquer (some debate as to how successful this is on polished wheels), or just polish (at least you can easily keep re-polishing out any marks or corrosion, problem is that you will have to quite often)
Exhaust - at first I used to buy a new mild steel exhaust every couple of years as it rotted through quite fast (car used once every week or two all year round in all weathers). The stainless system I fitted after 4 years was still just as good 10 years later - more than paid for itself.
Electrics - the wiring in these cars is now old. Not much you can do to avoid it, but most faults seem to result from bad connections, especially earths. Always been the case mind you, even when they were quite new.
Engine sumps (no, really) - these will corrode very thin and eventually become porous (don't be tempted to clean the rust off!). Replacements are hard to come by.
Headlamps - standard items are pretty rubbish if you plan to drive fast'ish at night, particularly in wet weather. Quadoptics used to be an excellent upgrade, others may now be available; that and careful attention to the wiring connections.
Enough negativity! TVR's are relatively simple cars and S Series were simple TVR's, so there are far fewer things to worry about than most cars of this vintage or newer.
An S will put a smile on your face every time you drive it (unless its dark, cold and wet/snowing, in which case you may smile less).
Still remember listening to mine being driven away by its new owner - made me realise why everyone had spent the last 15 years telling me how good my car sounded. Getting in the Tuscan for a blast helped ease the pain a bit though...
Like everyone else has said , check the chassis and unless it looks pretty close to immaculate budget for having to do some restoration (~£2K for outriggers to a lot more for a full body off restoration). Don't forget to check suspension as well, especially rear trailing arms.
Interior - most of these cars leak to some extent, especially if left outside in all weathers for long periods of time. Re-carpeting could cost ~£500 to £1500 depending on who does it. Seat retrims are also not cheap.
Wheels - if there is any sign of corrosion under the lacquer (looks like white/grey staining)it cannot be removed without a full refurbishment of the wheel - options are then to paint (not the nicest aesthetically and least 'original'), re-lacquer (some debate as to how successful this is on polished wheels), or just polish (at least you can easily keep re-polishing out any marks or corrosion, problem is that you will have to quite often)
Exhaust - at first I used to buy a new mild steel exhaust every couple of years as it rotted through quite fast (car used once every week or two all year round in all weathers). The stainless system I fitted after 4 years was still just as good 10 years later - more than paid for itself.
Electrics - the wiring in these cars is now old. Not much you can do to avoid it, but most faults seem to result from bad connections, especially earths. Always been the case mind you, even when they were quite new
.Engine sumps (no, really
) - these will corrode very thin and eventually become porous (don't be tempted to clean the rust off!). Replacements are hard to come by.Headlamps - standard items are pretty rubbish if you plan to drive fast'ish at night, particularly in wet weather. Quadoptics used to be an excellent upgrade, others may now be available; that and careful attention to the wiring connections.
Enough negativity! TVR's are relatively simple cars and S Series were simple TVR's, so there are far fewer things to worry about than most cars of this vintage or newer.
An S will put a smile on your face every time you drive it (unless its dark, cold and wet/snowing, in which case you may smile less).
Still remember listening to mine being driven away by its new owner - made me realise why everyone had spent the last 15 years telling me how good my car sounded. Getting in the Tuscan for a blast helped ease the pain a bit though...
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