bleeding brakes
Discussion
Hi everyone,
I need to bleed the brakes of my 1990 RHD S2.
In which order do you have to bleed the brakes?
I read in the Ford Sierra V6 service and repair manual to carry out in the following order:
1. front left,
2. front right,
3. rear right,
4. rear left.
However, I've always heard to start with the brake caliper the furthest from the servo brake, thus as follows:
1. rear left,
2. rear right,
3. front left,
4. front right.
Any advice or suggestions, would be very much appreciated.
Best regards,
Geoffrey
I need to bleed the brakes of my 1990 RHD S2.
In which order do you have to bleed the brakes?
I read in the Ford Sierra V6 service and repair manual to carry out in the following order:
1. front left,
2. front right,
3. rear right,
4. rear left.
However, I've always heard to start with the brake caliper the furthest from the servo brake, thus as follows:
1. rear left,
2. rear right,
3. front left,
4. front right.
Any advice or suggestions, would be very much appreciated.
Best regards,
Geoffrey
TopVpowerRoadste said:
I've always heard to start with the brake caliper the furthest from the servo brake master cylinder
Some cars have (had) remote servo's 
That is the "general rule of thumb" from the old days of single circuit hydraulics but I suspect either way will work fine with a dual circuit master cylinder.
Hi Geoffrey,
Sometimes excessive brake pedal travel can be caused by wear in the rear drum brake adjusters. The fine teeth on the snail cam or the toothed fixed spigot can wear so that they do not properly take up the slack as the brake shoes wear down.
Check these parts, and adjust the brakes so that you can only just get the brake drum over the shoes.
If there is a 'wear lip' on the inside of the drum, thus should be ground away so that it is flush with the swept surface made by the friction material.
I hope this makes sense.
I also recommend pressure bleeding, using a Gunson's Eezibleed or similar.
Good luck,
Glen.
Sometimes excessive brake pedal travel can be caused by wear in the rear drum brake adjusters. The fine teeth on the snail cam or the toothed fixed spigot can wear so that they do not properly take up the slack as the brake shoes wear down.
Check these parts, and adjust the brakes so that you can only just get the brake drum over the shoes.
If there is a 'wear lip' on the inside of the drum, thus should be ground away so that it is flush with the swept surface made by the friction material.
I hope this makes sense.
I also recommend pressure bleeding, using a Gunson's Eezibleed or similar.
Good luck,
Glen.
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