Handbrake - still binding
Handbrake - still binding
Author
Discussion

Deeman

Original Poster:

1,609 posts

205 months

Thursday 31st December 2015
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Well after checking out the rear caliper components are all sound and guide pin etc working well, the handbrake continues to be the cause of binding, by not releasing (intermittently of course). Before I go on a mission for hours, anyone got any tips to take me to the most likely cause? The bible doesn't seem to give it much detailed coverage - There's talk about the self adjuster - could that be an issue? Whilst down there I scrubbed off all the ste off the trailing arms and chassis, and fortunately all looks good apart from a few stone chips! Time saving help on the irritating handbrake would be welcomed. Pete

v8s4me

7,270 posts

242 months

Thursday 31st December 2015
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Have you striped the caliper off the pins on the carrier and cleaned everything up? Cable could be kinked I suppose but when I had this problem, it was down to crap in the tubes where the pins slide, and worn pins.

Deeman

Original Poster:

1,609 posts

205 months

Thursday 31st December 2015
quotequote all
Honestly Joe? No I haven't stripped it right down and off. Was hoping that because the pins and caliper are free moving, I wouldn't have to do much. (Lazy I know.) Do you really think a tiny bit of crap in the guide tubes would make it stick?
Is it possible that the handbrake lever shaft needs removing and cleaning up? I assume to get that out, the whole thing needs taking apart?

Deeman

Original Poster:

1,609 posts

205 months

Thursday 31st December 2015
quotequote all
When you say worn pins Joe. How does that affect it? Surely they'd be looser and freer? Apols for the daft questions, but the cause really doesn't seem obvious at the moment.

v8s4me

7,270 posts

242 months

Thursday 31st December 2015
quotequote all
Good point. Mine were all gummed up with crap and worn. Have you taken it all apart then?

Deeman

Original Poster:

1,609 posts

205 months

Thursday 31st December 2015
quotequote all
Going through a process of elimination Joe. They will be coming off fully tomorrow. Must admit the handbrake cam with the spring on does feel very slow in return operation. Its annoyed me to the point of doing something about it now. Just wondered whether there was a well known S documented cause for this. I've read enough on guide pin and caliper grease for now so wanted to tap the S -collective for anything more well known and save me the chasing blind alleys. Happy New Year BTW in 3 hours! Pete

v8s4me

7,270 posts

242 months

Thursday 31st December 2015
quotequote all
I'm afraid there's no quick answer. Just crack on and get them stripped down, cleaned and reassembled with clean grease and see what happens. If you do need new pins, you might be able to get them from Big Red. But it maybe the only answer is a rebuild.

If it's any consolation, I'll be stripping and cleaning a pair of rear calipers tomorrow as well. Can't wait.

Happy New Year beer



Top Gear TVR

2,251 posts

177 months

Friday 1st January 2016
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I had over heating rear brakes that turned out to be my diff. I would say do each of these in turn to see if it helps: back off the cable loads, remove a calipers, clean and wind the piston in and fit new pads to move to a fresh part of piston. Look for weird issues. Have calipers refurbed if doubtful.

Alan Whitaker

2,054 posts

205 months

Friday 1st January 2016
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Hi All.
Is the handbrake inner cable free, is it binding up there

Alan

phillpot

17,448 posts

206 months

Friday 1st January 2016
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Morning all smile


If its not the cable that is tight it could well be the pivot pin on the caliper, red arrow.

If parceling them up and sending off to "Big Red" (with a big cheque) or similar doesn't appeal try this:



Caliper on the right is (very grubby but) complete, when operated the mechanism moves in direction of yellow arrow and should spring back when released.
If it doesn't give it a good soaking in Plus Gas and work it backwards and forwards till it starts to free up then change to three in one.
Taking the spring off makes this easier but it's a pain to get back on because it's under tension, getting the bolt back in is awkward.




ETA... this can be done "in situ" to save disturbing the hydraulics, just be careful where the release oil goes!

Edited by phillpot on Friday 1st January 09:52

Deeman

Original Poster:

1,609 posts

205 months

Friday 1st January 2016
quotequote all
Thanks Gents (and Happy new Year to you all). All very valid and will help in my search. I hope to god mine is nothing to do with the diff overheating I must say! I was going to look for cable movement through the centre next but I am also bothered about those release mechanisms Mike - they appear sluggish. I always love your photo guides - they are perfect. Describing bit and bobs in words often creates a load of confusion to a lesser spanner man like me. I'm not resigned to sending them off to refurb quite yet. Will come back once I've crawled about under the car with the plus gas and have something positive to report back (hopefully) Thanks Gents

magpies

5,191 posts

205 months

Friday 1st January 2016
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probably best to unclip the hand brake cable from the callipers first then you can check to see if it is the cable or not. Then using large grips see how the operating pin/spring is working.

I purchased 'refurbished' callipers and after fitting and testing found one of them had worn internals to the extent that the piston didn't move for the first 80% of the operating arm travel !!! - had to remove and exchange again as it had been more than a year in rebuilding.

v8s4me

7,270 posts

242 months

Friday 1st January 2016
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v8s4me said:
...If it's any consolation, I'll be stripping and cleaning a pair of rear calipers tomorrow as well...


The one on the left has been primed with VHT stove paint, the one on right has just been cleaned and awaiting paint. The finish coat will be gold to match the fronts.

Get scrubbing Pete laugh


phillpot

17,448 posts

206 months

Friday 1st January 2016
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Some serious wire brushing gone on there (I saw them beforehand), looking good Joe smile

mikel003003

1,084 posts

189 months

Saturday 2nd January 2016
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I'm just trying to fit my new handbrake cable (rear disk conversion) but I can't suss out the route the cable takes, and im dammned if i can remember, ive got it connected at the handle end but theres only one retaining lug towards the rear of the chassis drivers side none on the passenger side any help appreciated.

phillpot

17,448 posts

206 months

Saturday 2nd January 2016
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mikel003003 said:
theres only one retaining lug towards the rear of the chassis drivers side none on the passenger side any help appreciated.

mikel003003

1,084 posts

189 months

Saturday 2nd January 2016
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Thanks Mike did you add that retaining lug on the passenger side or I need to open my eyes? I think I must of been looking in the wrong place?

mikel003003

1,084 posts

189 months

Saturday 2nd January 2016
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Is that it running over the top of the diff mount too?

TVRees

1,086 posts

135 months

Saturday 2nd January 2016
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Maybe this helps. This was how the original looked (rear drum brakes). Both lugs were on the drivers side.
However, I'm not sure if this needs to be different for rear disc brakes.

>

From the back, going over the differential support.
>>

phillpot

17,448 posts

206 months

Saturday 2nd January 2016
quotequote all
mikel003003 said:
Thanks Mike did you add that retaining lug on the passenger side or I need to open my eyes? I think I must of been looking in the wrong place?
That's not my chassis but location of brackets is the same.




Yes, that's the cable to the near side just visible going over the diff mount


Found another picture .............

[url]



Edited by phillpot on Saturday 2nd January 19:35