Handbrake - still binding
Discussion
Well after checking out the rear caliper components are all sound and guide pin etc working well, the handbrake continues to be the cause of binding, by not releasing (intermittently of course). Before I go on a mission for hours, anyone got any tips to take me to the most likely cause? The bible doesn't seem to give it much detailed coverage - There's talk about the self adjuster - could that be an issue? Whilst down there I scrubbed off all the s
te off the trailing arms and chassis, and fortunately all looks good apart from a few stone chips! Time saving help on the irritating handbrake would be welcomed. Pete
te off the trailing arms and chassis, and fortunately all looks good apart from a few stone chips! Time saving help on the irritating handbrake would be welcomed. PeteHonestly Joe? No I haven't stripped it right down and off. Was hoping that because the pins and caliper are free moving, I wouldn't have to do much. (Lazy I know.) Do you really think a tiny bit of crap in the guide tubes would make it stick?
Is it possible that the handbrake lever shaft needs removing and cleaning up? I assume to get that out, the whole thing needs taking apart?
Is it possible that the handbrake lever shaft needs removing and cleaning up? I assume to get that out, the whole thing needs taking apart?
Going through a process of elimination Joe. They will be coming off fully tomorrow. Must admit the handbrake cam with the spring on does feel very slow in return operation. Its annoyed me to the point of doing something about it now. Just wondered whether there was a well known S documented cause for this. I've read enough on guide pin and caliper grease for now so wanted to tap the S -collective for anything more well known and save me the chasing blind alleys. Happy New Year BTW in 3 hours! Pete
I'm afraid there's no quick answer. Just crack on and get them stripped down, cleaned and reassembled with clean grease and see what happens. If you do need new pins, you might be able to get them from Big Red. But it maybe the only answer is a rebuild.
If it's any consolation, I'll be stripping and cleaning a pair of rear calipers tomorrow as well. Can't wait.
Happy New Year
If it's any consolation, I'll be stripping and cleaning a pair of rear calipers tomorrow as well. Can't wait.
Happy New Year

I had over heating rear brakes that turned out to be my diff. I would say do each of these in turn to see if it helps: back off the cable loads, remove a calipers, clean and wind the piston in and fit new pads to move to a fresh part of piston. Look for weird issues. Have calipers refurbed if doubtful.
Morning all 
If its not the cable that is tight it could well be the pivot pin on the caliper, red arrow.
If parceling them up and sending off to "Big Red" (with a big cheque) or similar doesn't appeal try this:
Caliper on the right is (very grubby but) complete, when operated the mechanism moves in direction of yellow arrow and should spring back when released.
If it doesn't give it a good soaking in Plus Gas and work it backwards and forwards till it starts to free up then change to three in one.
Taking the spring off makes this easier but it's a pain to get back on because it's under tension, getting the bolt back in is awkward.

ETA... this can be done "in situ" to save disturbing the hydraulics, just be careful where the release oil goes!

If its not the cable that is tight it could well be the pivot pin on the caliper, red arrow.
If parceling them up and sending off to "Big Red" (with a big cheque) or similar doesn't appeal try this:
Caliper on the right is (very grubby but) complete, when operated the mechanism moves in direction of yellow arrow and should spring back when released.
If it doesn't give it a good soaking in Plus Gas and work it backwards and forwards till it starts to free up then change to three in one.
Taking the spring off makes this easier but it's a pain to get back on because it's under tension, getting the bolt back in is awkward.
ETA... this can be done "in situ" to save disturbing the hydraulics, just be careful where the release oil goes!
Edited by phillpot on Friday 1st January 09:52
Thanks Gents (and Happy new Year to you all). All very valid and will help in my search. I hope to god mine is nothing to do with the diff overheating I must say! I was going to look for cable movement through the centre next but I am also bothered about those release mechanisms Mike - they appear sluggish. I always love your photo guides - they are perfect. Describing bit and bobs in words often creates a load of confusion to a lesser spanner man like me. I'm not resigned to sending them off to refurb quite yet. Will come back once I've crawled about under the car with the plus gas and have something positive to report back (hopefully) Thanks Gents
probably best to unclip the hand brake cable from the callipers first then you can check to see if it is the cable or not. Then using large grips see how the operating pin/spring is working.
I purchased 'refurbished' callipers and after fitting and testing found one of them had worn internals to the extent that the piston didn't move for the first 80% of the operating arm travel !!! - had to remove and exchange again as it had been more than a year in rebuilding.

I purchased 'refurbished' callipers and after fitting and testing found one of them had worn internals to the extent that the piston didn't move for the first 80% of the operating arm travel !!! - had to remove and exchange again as it had been more than a year in rebuilding.

I'm just trying to fit my new handbrake cable (rear disk conversion) but I can't suss out the route the cable takes, and im dammned if i can remember, ive got it connected at the handle end but theres only one retaining lug towards the rear of the chassis drivers side none on the passenger side any help appreciated.
mikel003003 said:
Thanks Mike did you add that retaining lug on the passenger side or I need to open my eyes? I think I must of been looking in the wrong place?
That's not my chassis but location of brackets is the same.Yes, that's the cable to the near side just visible going over the diff mount
Found another picture .............
Edited by phillpot on Saturday 2nd January 19:35
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