Trailing Arm Brake Line
Discussion
Hi All
I am soon going to put in the brake lines for my new rear calipers. I have had stainless flexi lines made up to run from the chassis copper pipe all the way to the caliper. I just need to secure the lines.
The easiest way I can think of would be to use P-clips attached the the rear of the trailing arms so that the lines are actually hanging off of the back of the trailing arm.
(please excuse the artwork. I'm not too amazing anyway, and this was with a broken thumb!)
Is this an acceptable solution, or would they be too exposed and need to be inboard the trailing arm to stop things flicking up etc?
Thanks
I am soon going to put in the brake lines for my new rear calipers. I have had stainless flexi lines made up to run from the chassis copper pipe all the way to the caliper. I just need to secure the lines.
The easiest way I can think of would be to use P-clips attached the the rear of the trailing arms so that the lines are actually hanging off of the back of the trailing arm.
(please excuse the artwork. I'm not too amazing anyway, and this was with a broken thumb!)
Is this an acceptable solution, or would they be too exposed and need to be inboard the trailing arm to stop things flicking up etc?
Thanks
Thanks for the feedback chaps.
I do like the flowing method. Very curvaceous...!
I will have an experiment and see what works. I was trying to avoid drilling too many holes in the trailing arm, but needs must. I suppose another method could be to attach P-clips roughly as shown in my very technical drawing, but to have them bent upwards at 90 degrees.
So many options!
I do like the flowing method. Very curvaceous...!
I will have an experiment and see what works. I was trying to avoid drilling too many holes in the trailing arm, but needs must. I suppose another method could be to attach P-clips roughly as shown in my very technical drawing, but to have them bent upwards at 90 degrees.
So many options!
I'm doing exactly this job myself at the moment and I'm using 'P' clips secured through the holes where the original clips were. The only difference is, because I haven't made up the caliper union yet, I've put grommets in the holes on the original brackets and will run the hose through these. Picture to follow when I've done it.
v8s4me said:
I'm doing exactly this job myself at the moment and I'm using 'P' clips secured through the holes where the original clips were. The only difference is, because I haven't made up the caliper union yet, I've put grommets in the holes on the original brackets and will run the hose through these. Picture to follow when I've done it.
Mine has the unions on, but I was planning a similar tactic. Only one side on my car has pipe clips though. The other just rested on top!
v8s4me said:
v8s4me said:
.. I'm using 'P' clips secured through the holes where the original clips were. The only difference is, because I haven't made up the caliper union yet, I've put grommets in the holes on the original brackets and will run the hose through these.....
Like this...
I'm going to run one length of flexi pipe from the copper pipe fitting inboard on the chassis, straight to the caliper.
I'm going to experiment with mounting a P-clip and bending it at 90 degrees. I will report back if I have any success!
phillpot said:
Maybe because Joe's is a V8s so had discs from new?
That could explain it. I think one of mine was a replacement unit as well, as it was a different colour powdercoat (as much as was still grimly hanging on to the metal that is) and has no holes for the pipe clips.I've turned them black with POR15 now anyway...
I've got an S1 that I converted to run discs at the rear last year:
(You can barely see the solid line on the arm. I used a regular brake line clip though, which you can also barely see because it's black.)
You need to have a flexi at the caliper end, not just the arm mounting end, as the caliper is a floating type and needs to move. You may have already worked that out.
You can either go with one long flexi from the arm mount all the way down to the caliper, or you can be a tart like I was and go for two custom hoses and a length of solid pipe in the middle. There's no advantage to doing that, other than to satisfy your masochistic desires. Either that, or you know it looks better!
(You can barely see the solid line on the arm. I used a regular brake line clip though, which you can also barely see because it's black.)
You need to have a flexi at the caliper end, not just the arm mounting end, as the caliper is a floating type and needs to move. You may have already worked that out.
You can either go with one long flexi from the arm mount all the way down to the caliper, or you can be a tart like I was and go for two custom hoses and a length of solid pipe in the middle. There's no advantage to doing that, other than to satisfy your masochistic desires. Either that, or you know it looks better!
Kitchski said:
I've got an S1 that I converted to run discs at the rear last year:
(You can barely see the solid line on the arm. I used a regular brake line clip though, which you can also barely see because it's black.)
You need to have a flexi at the caliper end, not just the arm mounting end, as the caliper is a floating type and needs to move. You may have already worked that out.
You can either go with one long flexi from the arm mount all the way down to the caliper, or you can be a tart like I was and go for two custom hoses and a length of solid pipe in the middle. There's no advantage to doing that, other than to satisfy your masochistic desires. Either that, or you know it looks better!
May I say, that is a very clean chassis! I've gone for the single long flexi route, as I thought it would mean fewer unions to leak from...(You can barely see the solid line on the arm. I used a regular brake line clip though, which you can also barely see because it's black.)
You need to have a flexi at the caliper end, not just the arm mounting end, as the caliper is a floating type and needs to move. You may have already worked that out.
You can either go with one long flexi from the arm mount all the way down to the caliper, or you can be a tart like I was and go for two custom hoses and a length of solid pipe in the middle. There's no advantage to doing that, other than to satisfy your masochistic desires. Either that, or you know it looks better!
Lewis's Friend said:
May I say, that is a very clean chassis! I've gone for the single long flexi route, as I thought it would mean fewer unions to leak from...
It should be, I'd only just had it back from the painters!You're right - less unions usually means less headache. I've got 12 flexi braided hoses on the thing
The trailing arm should have some holes already that supported the original copper pipe.
The original clip type is BPC2 on this page http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/search?q=bra... but you may be able to utilise some of their other clips.
The original clip type is BPC2 on this page http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/search?q=bra... but you may be able to utilise some of their other clips.
Barkychoc said:
The trailing arm should have some holes already that supported the original copper pipe.
The original clip type is BPC2 on this page http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/search?q=bra... but you may be able to utilise some of their other clips.
You're quite right. One of my trailing arms has this. The other, a replacement I presume, doesn't have any holes or clips at all.The original clip type is BPC2 on this page http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/search?q=bra... but you may be able to utilise some of their other clips.
Which is not really an issue as I'll be putting some in myself now anyway!
If you don't want to drill it get yourself some girder clips - they should do it.
http://www.thesitebox.com/screws-fixings/britclips...
http://www.thesitebox.com/screws-fixings/britclips...
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